Thanks for the helpful advice DaveB, I'm gonna do some more research into the things you suggested I look into and if it's not difficult I'll do the testing myself. Thanks again and I'll keep you guys posted. They have my car until Monday again.

 

So here's an update, we finally resolved the issue I'm hoping. Been driving it all day and no issues. So it's a Canadian car and has a black DRL module in the engine bay. The tech said it takes a wire from the alternator and relays it to the instrument cluster in the car. We noticed my DRL's weren't running so they traced it back to that module and it was water soaked, corroded and moldy. The tech suspected that it was grounding out and not sending the signal to the cluster and resulting in low voltage all around the car. I'm hoping this is the final time it's in the shop. I'd like to thank everyone who gave me advice and offered their help.

 

hello man what's up I was wondering if you ever found your problem I have a similar problem as yours I have a 2004 infiniti g35 coupe and my problem starts from no where it was just a really hot day I was driving my car and them it loose power my slip vcd and check engine turn on the accelerator was responding to slow and I replace the throttle body the pedal position sensor and still the same I also notice that my tire pressure light are on but I just to have a 350z with tire pressure light on and never give me problems anyway I remove all the grounds I found and after moving a lot of staffs I found that the main ground that connects to the engine right under the water hose on the passenger side was corroded so I clean it and I put everything back together and banggg it was working fine and everything so I start putting everything back on the car cuz it was completely disarm and I disconnect that cable again and some other grounds to put this funny cream anti corrosion and when I turn the car back on those annoying lights vcd slip and check engine codes are p2128 p2127 p2138 and what I notice is that if I'm holding the pedal brake the car runs just fine I can rev it up and everything appears to work fine so I assume it was related to the brake switches I replace them and still the same so I try disconnecting the brake sensor on the bottom and it works fine no vcd slip check engine light but if I put the car on drive and push the accelerator hard it goes into limp mode again WTH so I'm assuming this thing is related with this sensor or the module that controls it I don't know much of electronic things but if I plug the multimeter on the accelerator pedal with the brake pedal depress I'm getting 5.0 volts I believe but if I release the brake with the car on or ignition switch on it raise to 12. something volts and if the car is on it goes to like 13 or 14 volts and I think it supposed to stays at 5. something volts if I'm right so im getting a really hard time with this car any help would be appreciated thanks

 

YOOOO thats the mass air flow i believe

 

Thanks for responding to a 7 year old thread lol.

 

If you bothered to actually READ the thread you would know it was the canadian DRL module was saturated with water and screwing up the electronics of the vehicle causing a temporary limp mode condition.

 

 

 

I think what he's trying to politely say is don't be a lazy azz and educate yourself on a topic before you look like a fool with a useless post.

Also please don't start multiple threads on a single topic. This clutters up the forum and is against forum rules. You don't want to rack up infractions just because you're immature and impatient. Thanks.....

 

Did you try the spark plugs? I had to learn to switch them out myself and I got a new battery and it didn't do much car still in limp mode and doesn't hold battery and no codes are stored in the module so the only option Im left with is getting a new key reprogrammed

 

Honestly I think it might be your key is your anti light flashing on your dash board even after unlocking the car?