^I think this whole bleeding process paranoia is a little overblown on the forum. Can the G be difficult, yes. But follow a few specific steps and you'll greatly increase your chances of a smooth, easy, stress free job.
1. Buy a Lisle spill-free funnel. This one happens to be 50% off for now: . Read the first review if it's still a 350Z owner...1265 reviews with a 4.7/5 star rating don't lie!
2. Jack up the front end of your car.
3. Drain the system
4. Flush with distilled water, do not use tap water as it contains deposits that can clog up the radiator.
5. Install spill free funnel and follow the kit's instructions to replace coolant.
6. Run the car with the funnel still installed with the heater blowing full blast.
7. Turn off the car when the fluid level remains at a constant level.
8. Slowly unscrew the bleeder screw at the back passenger side of the engine bay slowly to release any air that might be left in the system and close it when you get a constant flow of coolant out. Fill the overflow tank to the proper level if needed.
9. Remove the funnel, put everything back together, drop the car back down and enjoy thousands of worry free miles with a smile knowing you just avoided the potential hassle of not getting all the air out.

 

I now understand the purpose of this funnel. Never thought to open the bleed valve with the funnel full of coolant. That's smart.

 

This walk-through made it sound easy, I thought I had just wasted 50 bucks, then I read the amazon review you linked and it reminds me exactly why I'm willing to pay 3x more* for the 'fool proof' vacuum method (*I already have access to a compressor, also I'm a fool). I honestly appreciate you taking the time, but I'm just not willing to risk the car being down because I couldn't get it bled correctly.

From the Amazon review:
"....by this point 95-100% of the air is out of the system. Now for the 1st few days after doing this check the radiator level every morning and if its down top it off. Also for the next week you want to keep an eye on the over flow tank...."

I'll do this anyways out of paranoia, but I guess it just comes down to my mind being more at peace with the vacuum process. I was hoping to insert a buddha emoji here to represent being at peace, but I couldn't find one, so I settled for

EDIT: Your walk through does raise another question for me though, how do you flush the coolant out of the heater core with the vacuum method?

 

Its a good idea to do the job, run the vehicle for awhile, then do it again... if you want to get everything or if the coolant is really gross.

Mine wasn't horrible, so I just did it once, but I will do it again in a month or so. One note, something that I learned from owning my Land Rover which has a coolant sensor (float based). If you drain and fill with just water and then drain and fill, you can easily throw off your ratio of coolant to water. Some of the float sensors will not work properly if the ratio is wrong. So when I do this, I always just use properly mixed 50:50 coolant.

With the vacuum, if you pull a good vacuum on the system, it fills back up perfectly just to get back to no pressure in the system. That is part of the nice thing about it, it kinda fills to the right amount on its own.

 

Driving along at 75mph and POOF....a large puff of steam and then coolant hit the windshield. I thought it was a hose. Cheap easy fix. But NO. It was the radiator at 98000 miles. I was really sure that I would never have to replace it while I owned this car. Everything else works just fine and all it ever needed was routine stuff. So I had a tow to my local guy and he did the dirty work. My hands are clean and so is the car. Thought everyone should know that these radiators don' t last 100K.

 

My original one made it to about 160k miles.

 

Cleaned up mine this week (just in time for the drought to break...) Optimum No Rinse Wash and Hyper Seal, put Opti-Coat Pro Plus on my car late last year.

 

And ours made it to 135K. The fans failed shortly after that as well.

 

246k on the original radiator and fans in my '04 Accord. Surprised how reliable parts that used to fail before 100k miles are now.

 

That's amazing.^

 

Transmission isn't original though...kind of a sore spot for the V6 Accords and TL's of that generation. A/C systems have issues too, usually results in a blown compressor. So rebuild transmission with a shift kit and all new A/C. Car was paid for and in otherwise excellent condition when the transmission went and 40k miles later when the A/C did. Cheaper than payments in the end! My G35 so far has been even more reliable, very happy about that.

 

We've had remarkably reliable longevity with our G so far. Things replaced since new that aren't usually considered routine maintenance are: radiator, radiator fans, both camshaft position sensors, both front LCA's, 1 rear half shaft and that's about it. I would argue that with all of these issues happening right before or well after 100K they could be classified as "routine maintenance" as well. I'm pretty sure we are gong to need a new wheel bearing or 2 in the relatively near future, a few bushings here and there and we pulled the passenger seat recently to fix a couple of malfunctions with the switch.

All in all she's been a joy to own over the last 9+ years.

 

I purchased Genuine Nissan 350z (2006-2009) front struts to replace mine. I'm on 350z suspension up front and Midas said they are too short for the spring. I believe my current set up is from as 05 350z. Is Midas lying or did I buy the wrong struts?

 

I have 350Z springs and struts (OEM ones) on my car. I believe if you have the 350Z springs you need the 350Z struts as well. If you still have the G35 springs then the 350Z struts will probably be too short.

 

Yeah I had 350z springs and struts. They already put it back together and gave me the car. Im stuck paying an hour of labor for nothing. I'm gonna get normal G35 struts and hopefully that'll do.