Hello All,

Here is the updated scoop on the G35 Sedans racing career:
-JIC-FLTA2 – lowered car about 2.25” on all 4 corners
-Suspension is corner weighted with me in the car
-235/45 17 Bridgestone SO3 tires on factory rims
-Stillen crossed drilled and slotted rotors with metal matrix pads on all four corners
-Stoptech stainless steel brake lines
-Blue racing brake fluid
-Custom 2.5" brake ducts on all corners directly onto calipers
-Aftermarket tranny cooler mounted to front of radiator
-R&S racing lapbelt harnes on drivers seat
-K&N stock replacement filter

Car has raced on 3 road courses for 2 days each. About 700 track miles. 10k total miles.

I have gone thru about 6 sets of rear brake pads. They melt on the race track. I go about 30min (on a big braking track) and the rear pads are two thirds worn. I cannot make another 30 minutes so I have to change them. I have not raced with the stillen pads yet (end of the month). The smaller tires are awesome…no rubbing or noticeable speedo erros.

The autostick stops working once REALLY hot. The trans cooler did nothing (maybe even caused the car to run hotter by blocking the engines radiator). I am relocating away from the radiator to see if that helps.

The car has so many squeaks and rattles I cannot explain all of it. I am going to the dealer this week or next to see what they can do. I hope they don’t freak about the mods. I took the brake ducts off to maybe help my case (I think the harness might upset them).

On a great note, the G35 is awesome on the track. With the wider tires and suspension this car is GLUE. I cannot get the rear end to even break loose unless things are wet. I wish I had a manual tranny. I am thinking about buying a coupe for the brembos and the tranny but we will see. I might just buy a real race car so I don’t end up dead. When you have hit 140mph on the track and then brake into a 25MPH hairpin [censored] HAPPENS THAT ROLLCAGES ARE DESIGNED FOR. I can hang with a almost anyone in a e36 M3 (easily out handle them but tough in the straights). My main issue is exiting turns with the auto really sucks up time.

More later…..stay loose and deep in the throttle!!!!

 

Sounds like your enjoying the car!

I was under the impression that 235/45/17 tires require minimum 7.5" wide wheels. I would love to run that size tire on my factory 17x7 wheels, but waiting for some feedback from others who have tried it.
You don't mention anything about alignment specs, I'm assuming your stock. Also, might want to consider a LSD to help you power out of the curves.

03.5 G35 Sedan M6

 

How could we not enjoy such a fun car!!!! :-)

I did have my race shop do a new alignment. they said it would not go to factory specs but that was ok because they dont recommend those settings for the track anyway.

the 235/45/17 worked great on the factory 17x7 tires. 245 require 7.5" wheels. GO FOR IT, I promise everything is ok.

What would a limited slip do for me? I am not having wheel spin or anything like that. The issue is that I cannot get into the gear I want before a turn and then I have to wait for the tranny to downshift during the turn. The autostick (when not overheated) wont downshift when you are breaking from over 100 to 20MPH. I would want to get to second but that wont happen until I am at the allowable speed (the tranny wont let it happen). So the sift happens during the turn which unsettles the car during a turn. It ends up being easier to just leave it in 4 and deal with it.

<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by mountain on 06/10/03 06:03 PM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

Hey Mountain,

I suggested to Yuichi when they send the ECMs to Japan, to see if the ECM that controls the tranny in the Coupe Auto will work on the Sedans. From what some of the Coupe owners are saying, you can down and upshift more like a 6MT in their cars. Want to be the Guinea pig?[img]/w3timages/icons/laugh.gif[/img] Call me...

 

What would LSD do? Huh, I dunno, I'm not tracking my car and every day I drive my car I find times it's the open diff is holding me back, I want LSD more than anything else, more than any other mod. Beside's to much body roll and not enough suspension stiffness even with the sport suspension and the resulting excess weight transfers. This car needs LSD something fierce. I don't understand, why are you even attempting to track a automatic car, that makes no sense to me? BTW, the FM platform cars are known to run extreamly high transmission temps and diff temps in competition.

Ivry 6mt sed
Injen CAI, 22" resonator
8X18 Enkei RPM2 45mm
Kumho MX 245/40
clear corners

 

How does the car ride on the street with the JIC kit?
THANK YOU FOR TRACKING THE CAR & AN AUTO NO LESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Show'em what it will do-nay sayers need not reply.

03.5 Sedan/B. Silver/Prem/Winter/Aero/Tint/Rims
69 Chevelle Hard Top BB/4.11's/Posi

 

That's taking automatic love to the absurd, don't you think.

Ivry 6mt sed
Injen CAI, 22" resonator
8X18 Enkei RPM2 45mm
Kumho MX 245/40
clear corners

 

mountain -- you are ... THE MAAN!#%*()

auto!! woohoo.

 

Nothing wrong with auto love!

03.5 Sedan/B. Silver/Prem/Winter/Aero/Tint/Rims
69 Chevelle Hard Top BB/4.11's/Posi

 

I will probably take my car to the track in July, but am REALLY afraid of brake wear. I think I'll definitely need to get new pads, since everyone tells me their brake pedal feels like moosh after a few laps. [img]/w3timages/icons/frown.gif[/img]


It's still a G thang!!

 

Well, at least it won't be suprise, right. It will be loads of fun.

03.5 Sedan/B. Silver/Prem/Winter/Aero/Tint/Rims
69 Chevelle Hard Top BB/4.11's/Posi

 

A mushy pedal on the track is generally caused by overheating brake fluid. One point that is important is to have fresh, higher-than-stock-temperature-rated fluid (DOT 5) put in right before a track event. As non-synthetic brake fluid is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture over time) it becomes more compressable with age, (not a good thing!) It is simply not acceptable to take a car with year old brake fluid to a track event.

As far as pads are concerned, stock pads will provide less and less stopping power as they get hot. You could try a semi-metallic pad, which will improve somewhat with heat, but there is a tradeoff on the street. They react a little slower when stone cold, but you can ride the brakes for the first block or so out of your driveway. True race cars use even higher metallic (or carbon-fibre or ceramic) content in the brakes, but you really can't use most of these on the street at all.

04 G35 6MTS Aero Kit/Nav/Prem/Wint (Hopefully Sept 03)
Warning: Objects in Mirror Are Losing!

 

IQ9 - thxs...the JIC kit must be setup and corner weighted correctly otherwise it is brutal on the street. Once setup it is really tight. Tighter then any factory suspension I have every been in including lambos and ferrari's. This is a racing suspension.
Gsedan35 - lets see...txs for the posi info - why am i on the track with an automatic, because when I bought my car I had no choice. The stick was not available. Sure I would love to do it again. I still might trade this one in for a stick. But I still have not decided if I am going to get a full race car or just enjoy my suedo race car/street car.
Rumble - pads are a good thing but even aftermarket pads (unless race pads) will wear out. Most likely just the rear. The front stock pads last fine on the track. The rear melt and get a really bright pink powder all over the pads. I would install brake ducts (this helped reduce all of the brake fade...well with SS brake lines and better fluid).

 

<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

the 235/45/17 worked great on the factory 17x7 tires. 245 require 7.5" wheels. GO FOR IT, I promise everything is ok.

<hr></blockquote>
My concern would be that this size has a greater than 3% variance from the stock diameter. (3.7% -- so when the speedometer says 60, you're only going 57.8mph.) This is outside the generally accepted tolerance of +/- 3%.

According to the specs for the SO3 tires on tirerack.com, this tire in a 235/45R17 recommends an 8" rim, and requires a 7.5" - 9" rim. So 7" would be a little too narrow. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.j...+Pole+Position

2003.5 G35 Sedan Desert Platinum/Graphite Premium/Sport/Aero/Nav/Winter

 

I think i'll take this thread to dealer on printed page when he tells me that "its a performance car with performance brakes" and that I have to pay for it. Perofrmance brakes would go more than couple laps. Sounds to me like some of G's breaking power comes from using rear brakes more than the avg car would. I never replaced rear pads on dics systems ever and I drive cars 5-7 years.
No one should be paying for brakes unless they last 30-35k. I will refuse