Fix for check engine light from test pipes!
#1
Fix for check engine light from test pipes!
Hey guys, i wanted to let everyone know after a while of searching the fourms on here and others, i found the best way to fix your Check engine light for the sensors on your tp's or hfc if they throw codes.
http://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l-...work-pics.html
This gives you all the information on the supplies you'll need.
Also you will have to have some sort of common sense while soldering, its not anything crazy so everyone should be able to do it, or a friend should be able to do it.
I can post pic's up later if you wanna see it under my car, i wrapped (very carefully lol) the whole thing with electrical tape and then sprayed the whole thing with plasti dip.
I threw them on yesterday and today went to get my car inspected in NJ and it passed and only took me about 5 mins of waiting too
If you guys have any questions please let me know!!
http://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l-...work-pics.html
This gives you all the information on the supplies you'll need.
Also you will have to have some sort of common sense while soldering, its not anything crazy so everyone should be able to do it, or a friend should be able to do it.
I can post pic's up later if you wanna see it under my car, i wrapped (very carefully lol) the whole thing with electrical tape and then sprayed the whole thing with plasti dip.
I threw them on yesterday and today went to get my car inspected in NJ and it passed and only took me about 5 mins of waiting too
If you guys have any questions please let me know!!
#3
However if you don't want to spend $500 or more and need to get inspections quick you can do it this way. Along with uprev, some inspection places won't pass you because they disable the communication. So i mean your risk, I am just posting something that works that anyone with at the most $10 can go buy and easily assemble.
#4
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#12
Lol no i didn't put plasti dip on the exhaust component, i plastidip the wire and the electical tape. The wires won't heat up enough to burn plasti dip. The plasti dip was a extra seal since the wire wrap won't fit over the the wires. I plasti diped it when they werent connect to the test pipes. Ill post up pictures to clearify everything with everyone. And the write up is not that sketch, I followed it, just splice in where u need to, follow the connects and it shouldn't be a problem. Still no CEL light, passed NJ inspection and driving great....until someone hit me this morning and ran me off the road, then drove away and got stopped by police that were driving the other way. Surprisingly the Wires and everything underneath held up great, my new rims, not so much, and I have to go to court now i think for a hit and run. awesome start to today
#13
No plasti dip burning, no rubber smell.
#14
man actually hacking into your o2 sensors there's no going back now, but living in california i am jealous of those lucky members in more car friendly states. But I believe there usually isn't a big noticable performance difference between TP and HFC so with a HFC just get one with the o2 fowlers already installed and no check engine lights , but yea uprev will also somewhat dumb down the sensitivity of the o2 sensor to hopefully avoid the check engine light
#15
Yea i mean they are the stock sensors will be going out soon i think anyway they have been on the car since 30k and its at 81k. But yea they didn't use a sniffer so I was safe, and yea what it does is create the correct resistance that should be read. I mean if i took it off I could rewire the sensor anyway so I am not really concerned.