5at trans seap
#1
11-29-2023, 11:36 PM
5at trans seap
I blew my 5at trans, is there any diys on here regarding swapping a new one in? I have decent experience around carts especially the G, hoping i can get this done in a weekend or two and get her back on the road. The reverse drum and the planetary gears failed, so need to replace the whole trans and torque converter. If no DIY, can someone walk me through it?
#2
12-01-2023, 11:48 AM
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
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It's really straightforward.
-Disconnect battery
-Pull all 6 spark plugs (helps for later when you spin the engine by hand putting the converter-flex plate bolts back in).
-Car on 4 jackstands
-Disconnect/remove the crank position sensor at the bottom of the bellhousing.
-Remove exhaust starting at the rear, midpipe, y-pipe, cats, leave the headers. The two forward facing cat-header bolts are accessible from the engine bay with about 36" worth of extensions hooked together. PB Blaster penetrating oil, impact wrench, only use 6 point sockets (you WILL strip bolts with 12 point sockets).
-Remove driveshaft
-Remove starter
-Unplug the transmission harness and where it's attached to the side of the tranny.
-Remove tranny cooler lines from transmission, I like to push a rubber plug (sometimes earplugs work for smaller lines) into the end of the line (not up inside the line, it should be sticking out so you don't forget about it), otherwise it's going to just keep dripping tranny fluid for a long time.
-Tranny jack, remove bellhousing bolts, transmission crossmember, tranny is free.
Honestly the hardest part is just getting the transmission off the tranny jack and the new one up on the tranny jack, it's fairly heavy with only one person and you have to have the car REALLY high on jackstands in order to be able to clear the car. Typically I end up wrestling it off/on the jack under the car, lay down some pieces of 2x4 wood on the ground so you aren't damaging anything from the transmission landing on concrete.
-Unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate, keep your existing flex plate but if you do need to replace it be aware there is a dowel pin/alignment notch and the flex plate only installs one way (pickup ring for crank sensor is the flexplate/flywheel, if it's not installed correctly the car won't run). The bolts are accessible from a little access window directly in the middle of the engine oil pan.
-Alternately you can unbolt the existing torque converter from the tranmission prior to dropping the tranny, I usually just leave the torque converter on the flexplate when pulling the transmission though because it's easier to catch fluid that spills out, have a pan ready though because it WILL be pouring out a little fluid.
Installation is basically the reverse, make sure you seat the torque converter onto the transmission properly. I strongly recommend replacing the converter-transmission input seal as well as the driveshaft output seal. Push the converter into place, spin it until it locks in further, spin it AGAIN until it locks in even further, keep doing that until it's completely seated into the transmission. Use a straight edge across the face of the tranny and measure the backspace to the converter bolts, then make sure that it's 1/8"-1/4" deeper than that measurement from the engine block to the flex plate.
Just to reiterate, and this is really the only thing you can screw up, the torque converter MUST be indexed/setback onto the transmission prior to putting the tranny back on the car, if you don't set it deep enough (i.e. only going until it locks down the first time and not verifying it's fully set) then you risk crushing parts inside the tranny oil pump, plus it won't be pumping fluid when you try to start the car so it won't drive. Watch a youtube video if you're not sure what I'm talking about.
-Disconnect battery
-Pull all 6 spark plugs (helps for later when you spin the engine by hand putting the converter-flex plate bolts back in).
-Car on 4 jackstands
-Disconnect/remove the crank position sensor at the bottom of the bellhousing.
-Remove exhaust starting at the rear, midpipe, y-pipe, cats, leave the headers. The two forward facing cat-header bolts are accessible from the engine bay with about 36" worth of extensions hooked together. PB Blaster penetrating oil, impact wrench, only use 6 point sockets (you WILL strip bolts with 12 point sockets).
-Remove driveshaft
-Remove starter
-Unplug the transmission harness and where it's attached to the side of the tranny.
-Remove tranny cooler lines from transmission, I like to push a rubber plug (sometimes earplugs work for smaller lines) into the end of the line (not up inside the line, it should be sticking out so you don't forget about it), otherwise it's going to just keep dripping tranny fluid for a long time.
-Tranny jack, remove bellhousing bolts, transmission crossmember, tranny is free.
Honestly the hardest part is just getting the transmission off the tranny jack and the new one up on the tranny jack, it's fairly heavy with only one person and you have to have the car REALLY high on jackstands in order to be able to clear the car. Typically I end up wrestling it off/on the jack under the car, lay down some pieces of 2x4 wood on the ground so you aren't damaging anything from the transmission landing on concrete.
-Unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate, keep your existing flex plate but if you do need to replace it be aware there is a dowel pin/alignment notch and the flex plate only installs one way (pickup ring for crank sensor is the flexplate/flywheel, if it's not installed correctly the car won't run). The bolts are accessible from a little access window directly in the middle of the engine oil pan.
-Alternately you can unbolt the existing torque converter from the tranmission prior to dropping the tranny, I usually just leave the torque converter on the flexplate when pulling the transmission though because it's easier to catch fluid that spills out, have a pan ready though because it WILL be pouring out a little fluid.
Installation is basically the reverse, make sure you seat the torque converter onto the transmission properly. I strongly recommend replacing the converter-transmission input seal as well as the driveshaft output seal. Push the converter into place, spin it until it locks in further, spin it AGAIN until it locks in even further, keep doing that until it's completely seated into the transmission. Use a straight edge across the face of the tranny and measure the backspace to the converter bolts, then make sure that it's 1/8"-1/4" deeper than that measurement from the engine block to the flex plate.
Just to reiterate, and this is really the only thing you can screw up, the torque converter MUST be indexed/setback onto the transmission prior to putting the tranny back on the car, if you don't set it deep enough (i.e. only going until it locks down the first time and not verifying it's fully set) then you risk crushing parts inside the tranny oil pump, plus it won't be pumping fluid when you try to start the car so it won't drive. Watch a youtube video if you're not sure what I'm talking about.
Last edited by cleric670; 12-01-2023 at 11:54 AM.
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Urbanengineer (12-02-2023)
#3
12-01-2023, 11:53 AM
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 14,791
Received 2,456 Likes
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Here's a link to the factory service manual.
https://www.nicoclub.com/infiniti-service-manuals
The index/front page document is FWD - Forward
Down all the .PDF's for your exact car, you'll find torque specs for
EX - Exhaust
EM - Engine Mechanical (starter, flex plate-torque converter access plate window)
TM - Transmission
DLN - Driveline
TECHNICALLY the driveline to axle bolts are supposed to be replaced, I have always reused them though. Same with the flex plate bolts.
https://www.nicoclub.com/infiniti-service-manuals
The index/front page document is FWD - Forward
Down all the .PDF's for your exact car, you'll find torque specs for
EX - Exhaust
EM - Engine Mechanical (starter, flex plate-torque converter access plate window)
TM - Transmission
DLN - Driveline
TECHNICALLY the driveline to axle bolts are supposed to be replaced, I have always reused them though. Same with the flex plate bolts.
The following users liked this post:
Urbanengineer (12-02-2023)
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