With that many problems I recommend taking it to the Nissan dealership and paying for a diagnostic because you could have many of those codes related to a single issue. However, things like the occupant classification is likely the physical switch buried inside the seat which I don't think is individually replaceable (requires a new seat). You have multiple unrelated systems failing which I doubt is all just grounding issues since the EACH use their own chassis grounds.

For the future I strongly recommend you press EVERY SINGLE BUTTON in the vehicle to make sure it all works properly BEFORE buying a vehicle, many of these systems are probably not functional at all and these can be very EXPENSIVE to correct sometimes.

New passenger seat ~$500
IPDM ~$75
Cruise Control ~$300
TPMS sensors -$50 plus mount/balance

etc, this isn't even considering diagnostic time which could be DOZENS of hours if you're doing it yourself, requires a fairly high level of technical skill for electrical troubleshooting, a digital multimeter, and the ability to disassemble and reassemble many components of your vehicle. Paying the Nissan dealership for a diagnostic can save a lot of time because they will use the diagnostic functions within Consult-II but then you're paying ~$130/hr for diagnostic time.

I'm also very concerned about why a vehicle with such low mileage has so many problems with it? These are systems that typically don't fail until WELL over the 100k mark...

I recommend first to clean the battery terminal/cables thoroughly with a brush and apply anti-oxidation grease. Next clear ALL the codes and see which ones come back, find a copy of the factory service manual here:

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/inf...e-manuals.html

And start to familliarize yourself with it, starts with the FWD file. Become friends with your local Nissan dealership because you will likely need their help at some point. Start with the Power and Grounding section of the FSM (PG section) and start looking for broken or corroded ground wires.

Did you get a carfax report or is there any sign of collision damage, flood damage (I strongly suspect flood damage due to all these systems failing), does the vehicle have a clean title or is it a salvage/rebuild title?

 

Thank you for your reply! I did get a CARFAX and it’s completely clean zero accidents or issues. Also, while test driving it all the buttons worked and there were no lights except the airbag light. I was doing some reason and it looks like the U1000 code could relate to some of them. Is it possible it triggered fail safe mode for other systems? Also read that the 07 model just has a faulty passenger weight sensor, which a couple of people have shared a DIY about. Any other ideas about the codes since it appears many of the functions still work? Thank you again

 

1. I should add, the only thing I noticed that didn’t work properly was the center console cigarette lighter.

 

Cigarette lighter might just be the fuse, its one of the 15 amp ones on the top row of the cabin fuse panel. Somewhat common for people to accidently blow that fuse.

 

Also it DOES have a clean title?

 

Can't offer much help for the other systems... but the passenger weight sensor croaked in my car too. I got a clean seat bottom from a wrecked '08 and had the dealer swap it as I don't have a garage currently. The seat itself wasn't very expensive, and from what I understand the airbags may not deploy if there is a code. I wrecked a car with no airbags, I don't recommend tempting THAT system.

 

The U1000 I think usually means when the BCM can't talk to the other modules for a few seconds. I'm guessing your BCM is having issues talking to the IPDM and getting the status of your steering wheel. Since, they both show issues relating to the steering wheel. Honestly, I would take it to the dealer for a diagnostic, since you're probably going to need a Consult device for this. I purchased a Chinese Consult clone a few years ago for about 400 dollars and it works pretty good, but they're kind of hit or miss. Since, you're a student and limited funds; I'd say take it to the dealer and pay the 100 dollar diagnostic fee.

Don't be surprised if you need a new IPDM or something though. I went through two of them when I was under warranty. Not sure on the 07x, but on my 06 coupe they are right behind the battery in a crappy spot. If someone goes back there, does some work, and doesn't close it properly it gets destroyed (or partially) by water in a matter of weeks/months. I had to fight a dealer to replace it the second time, since another dealer worked on it prior and didn't close the plastic lid properly last time. There is no reason to be in there unless someone is troubleshooting something.

The TPMS sensors could just have dying batteries and I'm getting a bunch of codes as well. I bought four sensors for about 100 bucks, but haven't had them swapped out yet.

Did you buy this from a person or dealership? I'd investigate getting your money back or the seller to reimburse you the repair if possible.

Also, none of those codes are common and you wouldn't see most of them unless you had an advanced OBDII scanner.

 

Wow! Thank you all for your responses. I will look into all your recommendations. And yes the title is CLEAN. According to the Carfax it also remained on the west coast since its purchase. I purchased the vehicle from a used dealer not a person. I will take it to the dealer to get the diagnostics ASAP. I appreciate everyone's help and will update with new info once I have it.

 

Obviously it's in my best interest to get all these codes resolved as soon as possible, but how urgent are these issues? I was on break from school when I purchased the car and am now back in school. The nearest dealership is about an hour away and it might be a while before I can get to it (I go to school in the middle of nowhere). I drove the car about 250 miles to get here with no issues/ no lights. When I purchased the car I talked him down about $1000 so I have a little budget for repairs, but I purchased a set of 4 Centric premium rotors for about $230. My point being I have some money but not much and it doesn't appear the car is failing my at the moment. Again, I know its better to fix these before bigger issues happen but how urgent is it?

 

If you get in a high speed collision and the airbags don't deploy because the system is disabled then could be serious. At least focus on getting the safety related components fixed asap.

 

Got it! I am looking at passenger seat bottoms right now. I've been doing some more researching and it appears (like many of you have suggested) that flooding is a common reason for these issues. I am a little confused about that because I got the carfax and it was clean, had a mechanic check it out and only listed the things from my original post as issues. Then had another coworker/mechanic take a look for me, who didnt see any structural damage but was also confused about the codes. He also mentioned while looking at the engine that some of the parts were from a junkyard (he said this because some parts had numbers listed on them). I am confused because is it possible the car was flooded and not reported and I just got the short end of the stick?

I was reading about signs of flooding and smelling mildew, seeing rust, mud, and silt in weird places were some of the signs. I drove the car over 250 miles and dont remember anything smelling off or looking especially dirty. I am about to do another look today. The car originally came from Vancouver B.C and was brought to Washington state and sold. While I was researching this stuff, I read that people can get the salvage/flooded title removed by crossing state lines. Does this seem plausible in my case or am I way off? I know the most surefire way to get answers is by taking it to the dealer, I am just trying to be as best informed as I can be before I can take it in most likely this weekend.

Again, I really appreciate all the responses as I try to learn as much as possible!

 

I was searching for seat bottoms...Is this all I would need? https://www.ebay.com/itm/07-08-INFIN...-/132227686187

 

Theoretically yes... I bought the entire bottom portion of the seat, rails and all. Saves you (or a shop, in my case) from swapping the actual cushion, but you could also do that. Mine are sport seats but i don't believe much is different aside from the cushion shape... maybe someone else can comment on that.

DO verify that the weight sensor is included in whatever you buy, a parts dismantler may not be able to tell you if it works though. Seems like this particular failure is not super common though.... lucky us

 

If there was never an insurance claim then it would never show on Carfax. If they were already underwater (hah!) on the loan and it was cheaper to replace a few failed electrical components then resell the vehicle at higher than market value instead of taking a loss on the insurance claim then that's what people will do.

If it happened a long time ago you likely won't smell/see anything, if it was only flooded for a very short time, like 1 day, then recovered, then you won't see rust.

It's really hard to say without actually seeing the vehicle in person. It could have been as simple as the sunroof motor failed in the open position right before a torrential downpour in the Pacific Northwest, who knows.

It's the biggest reason for recommending an inspection at the dealership before purchase, I would get it looked at by the Nissan techs, it could be something as simple as broken grounds and a couple wiring harnesses.