I disconnected my negative battery today for an hour or so while I wrapped carbon fiber on my steering wheel. Now the service engine soon light is on. I tried the peddle steps a few times but cant get it right. Some directions say wait more than 10 seconds on one of the last steps, but how long exactly? I get the light to blink but in the last steps it is not blinking when i go to turn ignition to off? If I disconnect battery negative again will this work just as good? I do have a lag on take off if I stomp on gas for a second and then it takes off like crazy, was hoping the rest would fix that too.

 

ECU reset can be done by simply disconnecting the battery, pump the brakes a few times to drain residual capacitive voltage then just wait a half hour or so. The pedal dance method works but you need to actually use a timer because those seconds need to be measured pretty exact. Another option is to use an app like Torque Pro to reset it. If you have a Service Engine light you should probably throw a scanner on it to see what DTC it is because it might be COMPLETELY unrelated to any work you performed.

Did you remove the steering wheel to wrap it?

http://nicoclub.com/archives/g35-350...procedure.html

I -think- you can use this method on your year of G35.

 

Any idea on correct seconds on #6, as it only says wait more than 10 seconds, not sure if that is 30 seconds, 12 seconds or what? I keep trying to get it to work, but cannot do it. I get light to blink, up until step 6 and it stays solid when I press pedal to floor again, so when I turn off ignition, its solid, and then when I start car service engine soon light is still on. I keep thinking its something in step 6 I dont have correct. I have battery disconnected and pumped brakes, and was going to leave overnight and reconnect in morning, but would like to get the pedal way to work, just because I want to get it right!!


Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

 

By the way Cleric670, are you by chance also on the P38 pistol forum? I feel like I have seen your image on there as well? If not sorry, just thought maybe same person.

 

This is an easier procedure to follow.

Click Me PLEASE

 

No I haven't been to the P38 forum, this picture (and the others) have made their rounds on the internet about a decade ago though.

 

Ok will try this new way, which I am excited to see exact seconds needed. Will let you know, thanks! Cleric670, ok on pic, thought it would be too coincidental

 

100% correct way to nail it every time:

1) get a cheap OBD2 Bluetooth dongle (or WiFi version for iOS users)
2) install Nissan Data Scan 2 (NDSII)
3) connect to car
4) swipe over to self diag. If codes are displayed; write down codes, fix anything that needs your attention.
5) press "Clear Faults" (even if none are displayed)
6) swipe over to work support
7) press "Clear Self Learn"
8) turn off ignition
9) your ecu is now "reset"

Optional extra: warm car up fully by driving around for 10 minutes. Turn car off, start engine after 10 seconds or so, rev engine to 3k twice, connect app to car, swipe over to work support, press "Idle Air Volume Learn", watch rpms drop as car learns idle air.

No silly pedal dancing with a stop watch needed. Technology.

 

^^^^^^^

I'm honestly surprised NDS2 isn't talked about more on here. The pc version has tons of features and it's simple to use and can save a lot of time diagnosing things. Has saved me hundreds of dollars that would have been charged at the dealer just for resetting a sensor

 

Sorry to sound like a newb but I recently purchased an 08 G35X with 37K. What does this ECU reset do exactly? Does it make the car relearn everything such as throttle response, shifts, etc? The car was filled with regular gas from the dealer so once the gas light comes on time to start putting Shell premium in it. Just wondering if this will help anything?

 

It resets the long term fuel trim.

 

You can add premium fuel at any time or continue to run regular, mid-grade, etc. Certainly no need to wait until the low-fuel light comes on.

As for resetting the ECU, I can't "feel" any difference. I've done it 2-3 times. One of the times I did it was after a fairly good cleaning of the throttle bodies and that cleaning did make a difference so I can't contribute the ECU reset to the improvement that time...

 

1) Not much difference in the various ODBII adapters out there, at least the ones that are under $100 (not the pro-grade stuff obviously) ? Any recommendations, even the one you use ? Others comment too please.

I do have an ELM327 adapter but it's marketed as being specific for Fords and Mazdas. I've always wondered if it would work.

2) What is the official website for NDSII ? Google returns 'www dot nissandatascan dot com' as well as as 'home dot exetel dot com dot au'. The sites look very similar (I didn't look that closely yet).

The supported vehicles list only includes VQ35DE engines, no HR variants. Does anyone use NDSII with an HR engine ? Appears that one needs to use version "III" of the software with HR engines.

 

LTFT - Long Term Fuel Trim
STFT - Short Term Fuel Trim

I think it's important to understand the INTENT of the LTFT and why the ECU can "learn" because it all makes sense in the bigger picture. Manufacturing variables exist, from one fuel pump to the next there are slightly different flow rates, slightly different pressure rates, etc. Lets say the spec lies within +/- 3%, if the ECU used static values you could have one motor running stoic fuel mix and one running 3% rich or lean (slightly more if BOTH pressure and flow were increased). This type of manufacturing variable applies to LITERALLY EVERYTHING in the motor, fuel injector delivery rates, fuel filter delivery rates, spark delivery, cam timing actuation speed, air filter flow rates, etc.

Also, these are variables for BRAND NEW components, as they wear they will fail at a measurable rate as well, fuel pumps may work down to a -5% delivery rate before they need replacement, injectors become clogged or experience tip erosion and begin to exhibit different spray patterns, spark plugs wear at a somewhat significant rate which drastically affects the controlled burn rate, valves and intake tract accumulate deposit which affects air delivery rate.

Old air filters.... intake leaks... enough said about how parts change.

So the ECU reads between 5-10 times per second EXACTLY how much oxygen remains in the exhaust stream, it then recalculates how long to keep your injectors open as a IMMEDIATE VALUE (short term fuel trim), to compensate for LONG TERM changes (average over time of short term adjustments), this compensates for BOTH the initial manufacturing variables AND the wear of components over the life of the engine. In contrast the STFT in solely designed to recalculate many times per second fuel injector trim to keep the air fuel ratio within specified limits for PEAK CATALYST EFFICIENCY.

This is why you see the O2 sensor ping-pong back and forth from high to low readings, the STFT constantly flips from rich to lean (within specified limits), it's not a very big actual change in the combustion chamber but it's enough for the very sensitive O2 sensor to read as the computer does it's best to achieve a perfect (as programmed) fuel ratio. There is a slight delay due to the amount of time it takes for the gas to enter the measuring chamber of the O2 sensor so you can SEE the values ping-pong when you are looking at real time data on a graph as the ECU has to recalculate from lean-rich-lean-rich.

One reason you see MANY O2 sensor problems on the VQ engine is due to them typically burning a small amount of oil, one of the anti-wear additives that are in motor oil are zinc and phosphorus but phosphorus when burned creates a residue that will prematurely foul an O2 sensor (and catalytic converter to a degree). On a rev-up engine you can expect to start having O2 sensor problems BEFORE 100k miles and depending on the amount of oil actually burned you might need to replace the O2 sensors every 60-70k. As long as you are AWARE of how all these systems are interconnected it's not really a big deal because you adjust your maintenance schedule as needed but in my experience there are mercifully few people who even care about how things work. In a very good environment you might get 150k out of an O2 sensor before it starts giving sluggish readings.

O2 sensors start failing LONG before you ever get an error code, the impurities leave deposits on the internals or begin to clog the entry point or the heated wire just doesn't work like it used to and you start getting sluggish readings (delayed measuring) or the readings don't measure as high and low as they used to. These misreading/delayed readings are still interpreted normally by the ECU and not recognized as a problem (service engine light and diagnostic trouble code) until the O2 sensor has basically stopped working ENTIRELY, O2 sensors should be replaced according to a maintenance schedule which will be long before they actually fail. The lost fuel economy and performance, not even accounting for the extra wear on the engine from running slightly lean is MUCH more expensive than $200 worth of O2 sensors. Fortunately you can diagnose them by hooking up an OBD2 reader and just watching the graph, it's pretty obvious when they're not working right, poor cycling, poor delay when you mash the accelerator pedal.

One last thing to note, an ECU reset does nothing for "pedal response" or "how your vehicle shifts". It is for fuel delivery, period. Some (not all) transmission control modules have an adaptive behavior that allows for line pressure adjustments to compensate for those same manufacturing variables I was talking about earlier but for valve body actuators, clutch friction changes, torque converter pressure variables, etc to deliver a smooth shifting experience as parts wear over the life of the transmission.

I hope this helps illuminate why these control systems exist and dispel some of the myths about how they work.

 

Hah ! I, like many I think, thought the ECU reset was something like a "master-reset-for-everything-computer-controlled" in the car, from the fuel-delivery system, transmission shift behavior, and so on.