Pics and video's of my battle with a bearing
#16
10-06-2006, 01:54 PM
Sorry I don't have that smooth idler pulley number any more. I got the numbers initially from Vortech themselves. Vortech didn't have the NAPA part # for the smooth idler and gave me a different number but the NAPA guy was able to cross reference it and gave me a number similar to the one for the grooved idler. One thing to note is that NAPA part numbers can be the same for different types of pulleys ... when I opened the 2 boxes for the grooved idler pulley, 1 was plastic and the other was metal (about twice as heavy). I would make sure they are both the same and would recommend getting the plastic over the metal.
#18
10-07-2006, 12:38 AM
The plastic is just as durable as the metal pulley but weigh significantly less. Never understimate the premise of rotational mass, plus the stock pulleys are plastic as well...
I doubt the take-off squeal is related to the pulley. Most of the time it will be purely belt related even if the belt is plenty tight. Have you checked the condition of your belt? Are you using the one that came with the Vortech kit or did you upgrade to a Gates belt? I would definitely recommend changing over to a Gates belt if you haven't already and then keep the current on in the trunk just in case.
I doubt the take-off squeal is related to the pulley. Most of the time it will be purely belt related even if the belt is plenty tight. Have you checked the condition of your belt? Are you using the one that came with the Vortech kit or did you upgrade to a Gates belt? I would definitely recommend changing over to a Gates belt if you haven't already and then keep the current on in the trunk just in case.
#19
10-08-2006, 06:09 AM
#20
10-09-2006, 12:16 PM
I want to say the pulleys were around $17 a piece. The NAPA guy should be able to cross reference the Dayco part number to find a match, that's what they did for me.
If you are going to replace the pulleys anyways, try that and if the squeel doesn't go away I would try going with a Gates belt...
If you are going to replace the pulleys anyways, try that and if the squeel doesn't go away I would try going with a Gates belt...
#24
10-11-2006, 02:34 PM
If you are replacing the stock Vortech pulleys, you will be replacing apples with apples. It's just one of the age old controversies of the effect of weight on rotational mass. It's basically the same as replacing the crank shaft pulley with a lightweight replacement.
Imagine your front tire suspended off the ground (while still mounted to the car) with the stock wheel and you try to spin it fast by hand. Next imagine spinning that same wheel with it being made of plastic (much lighter)... It will be much easier for you to accelerate the rotation of the wheel from a start and it will be easier to decelerate the wheel to a stop.
Imagine your front tire suspended off the ground (while still mounted to the car) with the stock wheel and you try to spin it fast by hand. Next imagine spinning that same wheel with it being made of plastic (much lighter)... It will be much easier for you to accelerate the rotation of the wheel from a start and it will be easier to decelerate the wheel to a stop.
#25
12-08-2007, 04:45 AM
Originally Posted by BeerViper
Once the main bolt was broken loose, it was necessary to hammer the outer pulley off by using a socket to push the jackshaft through the mounting plate. Then there are 4 allen bolts holding the jackshaft assembly to the mounting plate.
Once the jackshaft assembly is removed from the mounting plate, the shaft itself will be held in the outer bearing. After removing the cog pulley you can tap the shaft through the housing which will push the outer bearing out. This will allow the shaft to come out of the housing.
The inner bearing (cog side) will need to be tapped all the way through the housing. Both bearings are pressed in.
The only picture I took here are of the bearings after I had them out. I took off the side plate of the bearing where you can see in the outer bearing, the grease just turned into gel!!!
Once the jackshaft assembly is removed from the mounting plate, the shaft itself will be held in the outer bearing. After removing the cog pulley you can tap the shaft through the housing which will push the outer bearing out. This will allow the shaft to come out of the housing.
The inner bearing (cog side) will need to be tapped all the way through the housing. Both bearings are pressed in.
The only picture I took here are of the bearings after I had them out. I took off the side plate of the bearing where you can see in the outer bearing, the grease just turned into gel!!!
How do u take the Cog pulley (32T) off bc it just wont come off??? I got the bolt off on the Cog pulley side.... do I need to take my 2.87 pulley off too?
HELP someone
#27
12-08-2007, 09:14 AM
Originally Posted by Mr_pharmD
How do u take the Cog pulley (32T) off bc it just wont come off??? I got the bolt off on the Cog pulley side.... do I need to take my 2.87 pulley off too?
HELP someone
HELP someone
I then removed the 4 hex bolts that attached the jackshaft assembly to the mounting plate allowing me to completely remove the jackshaft.
Both bearings are pressed into the jackshaft assembly so they had to be tapped out.
Hope this helps. I wish I took more pics while I was doing it but you know how that goes ... you just want to get 'er done!
#28
12-08-2007, 11:50 AM
Originally Posted by BeerViper
If I remember correctly (and by reading my old posts) I did remove the serpentine belt (as seen in post #3), then removed the bolt that went through the jackshaft assembly (as seen in post #3) and I think the cog pulley was on the end of the jackshaft with locktite similar to the way the serpentine pulley (2.87 in your case) is held on.
I then removed the 4 hex bolts that attached the jackshaft assembly to the mounting plate allowing me to completely remove the jackshaft.
Both bearings are pressed into the jackshaft assembly so they had to be tapped out.
Hope this helps. I wish I took more pics while I was doing it but you know how that goes ... you just want to get 'er done!
I then removed the 4 hex bolts that attached the jackshaft assembly to the mounting plate allowing me to completely remove the jackshaft.
Both bearings are pressed into the jackshaft assembly so they had to be tapped out.
Hope this helps. I wish I took more pics while I was doing it but you know how that goes ... you just want to get 'er done!
but do I remove the 2.87 pulley or ONLY the cog pulley to get to the jackshaft?
#30
06-24-2016, 10:26 AM
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