Coolant leak ?
#3
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telcoman (07-17-2017)
#4
If thats coming from near the T stat it could be a bad clamp.. Just got done replacing my radiator & t stat, and had a huge leak afterwards.. ended up being a crappy clamp not holding tight enough on the smaller t stat coolant line..
Check your clamps.. Are you overheating at all?
If its not your clamps, the hose itself might be bad. Get a pressure test done, as Gary suggests.. Thats what pinpointed my bad clamp after replacing the radiator & t stat.. If you do that, and its not the hoses or clamps, that looks to be in the vicinity of the water pump "weep hole"
If your water pump is failing, or has a bad gasket, it will ejaculate coolant out of the weep hole to prevent coolant from entering the timing cover.
Best of luck! Please do keep us posted. Also, if it is the pump, you dont NOT have to remove the timing cover as advised above. Just an FYI
Check your clamps.. Are you overheating at all?
If its not your clamps, the hose itself might be bad. Get a pressure test done, as Gary suggests.. Thats what pinpointed my bad clamp after replacing the radiator & t stat.. If you do that, and its not the hoses or clamps, that looks to be in the vicinity of the water pump "weep hole"
If your water pump is failing, or has a bad gasket, it will ejaculate coolant out of the weep hole to prevent coolant from entering the timing cover.
Best of luck! Please do keep us posted. Also, if it is the pump, you dont NOT have to remove the timing cover as advised above. Just an FYI
#6
Hmm.. I ran into this same issue literally about a month back..
Started over heating and dumping coolant everywhere.. Does your cabin heat work? If not, you DEFINATELY have air in the system.
My leak ended up being my radiator. Was very hard to pin point it (did so without pressure test )
when you OH, try turning the cabin heat on 4 @ 90degrees -- as long as you're driving, this should prevent you from hitting H. You will see it drop drastically as you drive with the heat on. The only time this DIDN'T work for me was when my leak got so big, to the point where id loose about 2-3 quarts within 3 city blocks of driving. Once your system gets below half way, you cant stop the overheating at that point.
If I were you I would take that intake tube off, start the car, and look at both t stat hoses, and inspect gasket as well.
Do you overheat if you just sit idling? or only once you drive a little bit?
Started over heating and dumping coolant everywhere.. Does your cabin heat work? If not, you DEFINATELY have air in the system.
My leak ended up being my radiator. Was very hard to pin point it (did so without pressure test )
when you OH, try turning the cabin heat on 4 @ 90degrees -- as long as you're driving, this should prevent you from hitting H. You will see it drop drastically as you drive with the heat on. The only time this DIDN'T work for me was when my leak got so big, to the point where id loose about 2-3 quarts within 3 city blocks of driving. Once your system gets below half way, you cant stop the overheating at that point.
If I were you I would take that intake tube off, start the car, and look at both t stat hoses, and inspect gasket as well.
Do you overheat if you just sit idling? or only once you drive a little bit?
#7
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#10
#11
Well if you overheated with the t stat off, its definitely not the t stat lol..
If the leak is coming from below t stat area, its more than likely the waterpump gasket failing, and pushing the fluid out of the weeper.
I thought my issue may be a bad pump/gasket, and I ended up getting quote 425$ up here in the Mil/Chi area.
If it is the pump/gasket, don't let the shop spend the time taking the timing cover off, as it isn't needed at all. Have them change the tensioner & gasket(just get a new pump while you're at it)
Keep us posted man!!
If the leak is coming from below t stat area, its more than likely the waterpump gasket failing, and pushing the fluid out of the weeper.
I thought my issue may be a bad pump/gasket, and I ended up getting quote 425$ up here in the Mil/Chi area.
If it is the pump/gasket, don't let the shop spend the time taking the timing cover off, as it isn't needed at all. Have them change the tensioner & gasket(just get a new pump while you're at it)
Keep us posted man!!
#12
And to further clarify procedure to getting to the pump; there's actually an access port on the timing cover.. I believe its 3 or 4 10mm bolts... Will save your mechanic a lot of time, and save you money on getting a new timing chain as well (always recommended to replace the chain if you open the case)