Multiple Issues. At a loss for words.
#1
07-26-2017, 03:22 PM
Multiple Issues. At a loss for words.
A few issues that are being a PIA.
I seriously apologize if these are ridiculous issues with very simple remedies. I've searched in a million places but, I don't seem to be searching correctly.
2005 g35 Coupe 6mt.
Mod list:
Greddy EVO3 CBE
Berk HFC
Takeda/AFE Intake
Stillen Torque damper (thought it looked cool, was a waste. it's now rusted)
Osiris Dyno Tune
Clutch Masters FX300 HDTZ (my favorite replacement ever)
ACT Street light flywheel
Zspeed Aluminum undertray
Zspeed SS clutch line
1) I have Greddy CBE and Berk HFC. I was dyno tuned about 3 years ago and my car didn't throw any codes. Suddenly I'm getting 4 codes, high voltage and lean DTC's for both rear o2 sensors. I'm wondering if it really is bad o2 sensors or if I should consider adding extensions. I've seen in a few places that steel wool might help, but, I'm confused because I would assume it would eventually burn out. I know the Berk HFC's have built in extensions so I don't THINK I would need to add extensions to the extensions but it's also weird that it's happening to both sides at the same time.
2) I changed my brakes about a year ago. I had a seized caliper (RR). Okay, figured I would change that and pads and rotors all the way around. Figured I should be fine. Had to go on a road trip recently (~250 miles) and my LR is now grinding with no pad left and my right rear is no longer working at all. It did bed in so I know it was working at one point. After leaving it to sit over night (it rained) and then driving around town. I saw the RR rotor is still rusted, Meaning it's not clamping. I don't understand what would cause this.
3) I'm in a weird situation. I moved back to NY from Ohio and since I have tint and plan on moving back to Ohio soon, I didn't want to register my car in NY so I do drive back occasionally for work/see friends. I have to get an Emissions check by the end of August. However, with no MIL on, my ECM is not ready/doesn't have all the monitors ready. I've completed the SRT drive cycle and reset the computer almost a dozen times for good measure to make sure I am completing it successfully. Still not ready. Decided to drive back to NY because I had to be in the office. Still no CEL, but codes are definitely there when I check against my Bully Dog gauges. (Spent the money on it years ago because I thought it was cool).
I'm at a loss. Confused and very frustrated. My car is starting to fall apart at 144k miles. I've got to change the passenger's window motor soon because of the stupid come down issue and the thermostat because temps bounce around from 188F to 210F just driving around town. I don't need help with those, just the issues listed. Thanks!
I can get the actual codes shortly that are being thrown. Just so mad while I sit in my office at the moment.
I seriously apologize if these are ridiculous issues with very simple remedies. I've searched in a million places but, I don't seem to be searching correctly.2005 g35 Coupe 6mt.
Mod list:
Greddy EVO3 CBE
Berk HFC
Takeda/AFE Intake
Stillen Torque damper (thought it looked cool, was a waste. it's now rusted)
Osiris Dyno Tune
Clutch Masters FX300 HDTZ (my favorite replacement ever)
ACT Street light flywheel
Zspeed Aluminum undertray
Zspeed SS clutch line
1) I have Greddy CBE and Berk HFC. I was dyno tuned about 3 years ago and my car didn't throw any codes. Suddenly I'm getting 4 codes, high voltage and lean DTC's for both rear o2 sensors. I'm wondering if it really is bad o2 sensors or if I should consider adding extensions. I've seen in a few places that steel wool might help, but, I'm confused because I would assume it would eventually burn out. I know the Berk HFC's have built in extensions so I don't THINK I would need to add extensions to the extensions but it's also weird that it's happening to both sides at the same time.
2) I changed my brakes about a year ago. I had a seized caliper (RR). Okay, figured I would change that and pads and rotors all the way around. Figured I should be fine. Had to go on a road trip recently (~250 miles) and my LR is now grinding with no pad left and my right rear is no longer working at all. It did bed in so I know it was working at one point. After leaving it to sit over night (it rained) and then driving around town. I saw the RR rotor is still rusted, Meaning it's not clamping. I don't understand what would cause this.
3) I'm in a weird situation. I moved back to NY from Ohio and since I have tint and plan on moving back to Ohio soon, I didn't want to register my car in NY so I do drive back occasionally for work/see friends. I have to get an Emissions check by the end of August. However, with no MIL on, my ECM is not ready/doesn't have all the monitors ready. I've completed the SRT drive cycle and reset the computer almost a dozen times for good measure to make sure I am completing it successfully. Still not ready. Decided to drive back to NY because I had to be in the office. Still no CEL, but codes are definitely there when I check against my Bully Dog gauges. (Spent the money on it years ago because I thought it was cool).
I'm at a loss. Confused and very frustrated. My car is starting to fall apart at 144k miles. I've got to change the passenger's window motor soon because of the stupid come down issue and the thermostat because temps bounce around from 188F to 210F just driving around town. I don't need help with those, just the issues listed. Thanks!
I can get the actual codes shortly that are being thrown. Just so mad while I sit in my office at the moment.
#2
07-26-2017, 05:51 PM
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