Could be all sorts of things with that kind of mileage. If I were you I'd pull the spark plugs, check compression first just to make sure it's worth the effort. If that's all good, replace the plugs, check for vacuum leaks as that can cause high idle. I would also clean the MAF and throttle body while it's all apart, make sure you don't move the throttle body plate unless you're a gambler. Google it if you don't know how to do these things, they're all easy and can be done in an hour or two.

My car had a similar problem with hard starting recently which turned out to be the coolant temperature sensor going out, but that also caused the temp gauge to indicate overheating - but I'd replace that too for $6 just for peace of mind and to be sure. At that mileage, if the crank/cam sensors are original they're going to break eventually, so replacing them might not be a bad idea.

If that doesn't fix your problem I have no idea, but I'm not an expert on these cars. Hopefully someone else will chime in after you've checked the basics.

 

 

A almost fourteen year old vehicle with 128k miles is not a super high mileage vehicle, however was this a garaged vehicle or when left outside in all kinds of weather?
If it were mine prior to spending money for any needed repairs I would have the vehicle thoroughly inspected by an Infiniti dealer to give you a service, recall history and have them run the VIN number.
I would be concerned about the suspension, brakes, tires, exhaust system and all of the electrical sensors and components.
Many have posted that buying cheap non OEM parts do not play well and usually result in wasting money and buying twice.
If you are planning to do most repairs yourself you should probably obtain a copy of the FSM and follow the troubleshooting steps.

Good luck

Telcoman

 

The typical cause for that EVAP low leak code is not properly installing the gas cap, are you using the OEM gas cap or is there a different replacement cap installed, make sure you screw it down until it clicks.

The high idle code is most commonly caused by a vacuum leak, remove and inspect the intake piping, pay particular attention to the flexible section and where the clamps are installed. Next remove the PCV valve (it's threaded so unscrew it) and shake it to make sure it rattles and the valve isn't stuck, also inspect the hoses going to both valve covers and the transfer hose that connects the two valve covers together at the front of the motor.

If everything looks good then I would remove the crank sensor (CKP) and inspect it for any obvious damage INCLUDING oil contamination of the harness, use electrical contact cleaner like CRC red can (never use CRC blue can contact cleaner on cars it dissolves plastic, you can use CRC green can contact cleaner if you don't wear safety gloves and it will save your liver from some of the chlorine in the red can) to clean the harness AND the sensor plug. If everything looks good on the CKP sensor then remove/inspect/clean all 4 of your cam sensors (CMP) using the same procedure.

Since you're throwing an EVAP leak code as well as a high idle which normally means an intake leak my gut feeling is you don't have a sensor problem but rather just have leaks, I'd pay particular attention to the passenger side of the motor near the firewall where the EVAP purge solenoid is located, you might have some obvious damage to the engine in that location.

 

 

 

Sounds like the PO sold you a broken car. Maybe you could ask him to at least have the courtesy to tell you what's wrong with it/what he's already replaced/checked. When you know the owner was cheaping out on things everything on the car becomes questionable - is that "new" sensor actually good, or is it a **** aftermarket part which could be causing issues?

 

I know it seems obvious but the number 1 reason for the car stalling and not sputtering is simply running out of fuel, the gas gauge is notorious for failing and displaying the wrong amount of fuel so I would add 1 gallon and try to start it again.

Personally I like to rule out other items before diving into replacing the CKP because it's about $100 for the OEM sensor, unfortunately fuel pressure isn't easy to test because there's no factory fuel test port, Z1 Motorsports sells a sandwich adapter for the passenger side fuel damper so you can add one.

Spark can be tested by pulling the fuel pump relay out, crank the engine a couple times to relieve fuel pressure, take out a spark plugs and, plug it back into the coil pack, hold the coil pack with a leather gloves hand and keep the groun strap of the spark plug within 1/4" of the intake manifold while someone else cranks the motor and you watch for spark.

If you have spark and fuel pressure THEN I would replace the CKP. If you replace it and it still doesn't run properly buy one of each kinds of CMP, one straight connector and one angled, identify the new ones with a sharpie or paint pen so they're not confused with the old ones. Replace them with the old ones on one bank, if it's still not running swap them with the 2 on the second bank.

Or you can pay Nissan for a diagnostic, they have access to the tools needed to actually TEST those sensors (unless you know someone with an oscilloscope) so you don't end up replacing a bunch of components that aren't actually bad.

 

 

 

Or the cable connections where they are attached to the battery post could be severely corroded and your jumper cables were attached to the OUTSIDE of that connection. Take them off, wire brush clean, apply electrical anti-oxidation grease (not dielectric grease), charge the battery, reattach and try again when the battery is full.

 

 

Is there enough gas in the tank?
Check fuel pump pressure
Check for spark

Telcoman

 

I'm guessing fuel pump combined with a massive vacuum leak but you need to start troubleshooting and bringing in some more information - at this point we're just guessing as much as you based on our personal experiences with similar issues.