Hello. I have a 2007 G35X sedan. Cleaned the TB yesterday and now am getting a P0507 CEL and high idle. Idle's around 1100 RPM. I did not disconnect the battery when cleaning the TB's and learned that was a mistake doing that and I also moved them by hand to clean them all around. I have tried the relearn procedure, disconnected my battery overnight and nothing seems to fix it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

You'll have to keep trying the relearn, take it in to Nissan/Infiniti to try it with their computer, or your throttle bodies could be shot. I think the dual throttle bodies have a different procedure, so you might be following the wrong one.

 

It's the same procedure on both the DE and HR motors, are you SURE the procedure worked? You will see the rpm's move when you get it done right. Also, you must have the engine up to operating temp, the AC must be turned completely off, the heated seats and window defroster must be turned off, the stereo must be turned off, etc.

 

No I am not sure the procedure worked. My RPM's don't move down. I believe I am doing it right because the CEL light blinks and then turns solid. Could you get me the procedure? Maybe I am doing the wrong one. I did have the engine warmed up and all the other things done when performing the relearn.

 

http://nicoclub.com/archives/g35-350z-ecu-reset-procedure.html

 

So I'm still not being able to get my idle to go down. Should it happen instantly if I get it right? Also do I need to do all the procedures or just the ECU reset to fix the idle? I've been doing just the ECU reset procedure and not the other ones. Do I need to do all of them since I cleaned my TB? Thanks.

 

The ECU reset does nothing for idle, it resets the long term fuel trim. You need to do the idle air reset, get the engine up to operating temp, turn off the AC controller, stereo, heated seats, window wipers, window defroster, or anything else that.consumes power then do the reset.

 

Been trying to do the reset and still cant get the idle to go down. Took it to a shop and they tried to do the idle relearn and it kept timing out for some reason on there scan tool. Very confused why all this is happening just from cleaning the TB's.

 

Just let it be. It'll correct itself over time.

 

I've read that it puts unnecessary wear on the engine and transmission. I also read that it doesn't fix itself for everyone. How do I know that it will fix overtime ? And how long does that take?

 

Probably about 2k miles.

How would it put unnecessary wear on an engine? I've driven tens of thousands of miles at 3-4krpms and I have 172k miles on my odometer. It runs like a top.

I drive mostly on the hwy and run this thing at high rpms all the time. What's the difference (as long as your cooling system is working correctly)? Anyway, this car runs an 850rpm idle with the AC on anyway, so again what's the difference?

The secret to making an engine last is two fold: keep it lubed and keep it cool. If you've done the reset, you've cleaned the TB, you've cleaned the MAF, that's all you can do other than cam/crank/idle sensors. It having a little extra idle while it relearns it's place will not hurt it.

Now, if you go a few thousand miles and then it throws a trouble code, then you can start digging for solutions. If you have no codes and everything else is doing ok, just be cool and let it do it's thing.

 

Thanks for the response. Problem is I just got the car and I cleaned the TB's not knowing it would mess it up and I need it to pass inspections and it can't as it has the CEL on P0507 for to high idle.

 

It does put increased wear on transmission components from shifting park-drive with the rpm's elevated but it should be fine for a little while. It's possible you damaged one of the TB's while cleaning it, especially if you were manually opening the butterfly valve. The actuator motors are incredibly weak and not designed to be essentially "backwards driven" by having the large TB gear turn the small drive motor worm gear and I typically don't move motor-driven-throttle plates because of that.

The problem however is likely that it still needs the idle air recalibration done. Where EXACTLY in the steps are you having problems?

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)

It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Confirm that the accelerator pedal is fully released, then turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

You MUST use a stopwatch to count time accurately.

 

Something else I just remembered for the HR motors, part of the check to enter diagnostic mode is the TRANSMISSION needs to be up to temp as well so drive the vehicle for 10min or so, if you are having problems transitioning from step 5 to 6 then it's something blocking the ECU from entering diagnostic mode, the electric load switch must be OFF (which includes turning off DRL for canadian models), the steering angle sensor must have the wheels pointed straight ahead, the transmission temp sensor must be within operating range for AT equipped cars, engine stopped, park switch engaged, coolant within operating temperature range.

Perform the throttle closed position reset first, make sure you open the hood and put your head down right next to the TB to listen to EACH motor to confirm they are operating, you only have a few seconds once you turn the ignition switch off so be quick getting into position. If you are having a hard time telling the two TB's apart use a mechanic stethoscope, if you don't have one then a long screwdriver with the handle end of the screwdriver up against your ear works decently, you "feel" the vibration (sound) through your skull.

 

Oh, I didn't realize you had a CEL. NVM Everything I said. Lol the idle on these cars can be kind of retarded sometimes and a lot of people have a lot of strange issues (without a CEL). If you have a CEL, then, yes, something needs to be done about it.