$5 Door Lock Motor (Actuator) Fix
#36
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Here is a link to where you can order OEM parts includeing the OEM actuator for about half the price at the dealership.
BTW- #12 is the door lock actuator
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0
BTW- #12 is the door lock actuator
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0
#38
I got to thank jfpound for this idea. Somebody should sticky this thread. If I replaced the stock actuator, I know it will break eventually. A new passenger actuator for the coupe is $144, $200 at the dealership. So I gave this a shot. I went to Car Toys and bought a generic actuator for $20. Then went to Autozone and bought $10 worth of connectors and 18 gauge wire.
It took about four hours of trial and error, but think thing works real well.
It took about four hours of trial and error, but think thing works real well.
#41
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Thanks to JFPOUND for the initial concept and FIREFOX for answering a couple of wiring questions.
Definitely would be a good idea to have a Dremel tool.
Went to Lowe’s and picked up a aluminum bar that was long enough to produce two brackets.
1. Measure, cut & bend the bar to fit in between the two ribs.
2. Drill the holes necessary to mount the actuator.
3. Mount actuator to the bracket. ( I opted to screw it in through the back).
4. Cut this part off inorder to give your clamp room to slide.
( I used my Dremel tool to cut it then a grinding attachment bit to grind it down a bit).
BEFORE
AFTER
5. Drill the holes necessary to enable the rod to pass through.
6. Mount your actuator to the door panel.
( Don't forget to slide your clamp in place before you mount the bracket or you will need to dismount later to fit it in.
7. Remove the door speaker and right below you will find the wire harness for the OEM actuator, pull the purple & blue wires out slightly.
I opted tap into the wires rather then cut them and put connectors.
8. I opted to pull the wires through this rubber wire housing.
9. Clamp down the rod and oem actuator wire together ( Do not over tighten cause you'll crack the clamp.)
10. Fit the wire with the desired connectors ( i purchased connectors that matched those that came with the actuator ) and connect to the actuator and test.
Definitely would be a good idea to have a Dremel tool.
Went to Lowe’s and picked up a aluminum bar that was long enough to produce two brackets.
1. Measure, cut & bend the bar to fit in between the two ribs.
2. Drill the holes necessary to mount the actuator.
3. Mount actuator to the bracket. ( I opted to screw it in through the back).
4. Cut this part off inorder to give your clamp room to slide.
( I used my Dremel tool to cut it then a grinding attachment bit to grind it down a bit).
BEFORE
AFTER
5. Drill the holes necessary to enable the rod to pass through.
6. Mount your actuator to the door panel.
( Don't forget to slide your clamp in place before you mount the bracket or you will need to dismount later to fit it in.
7. Remove the door speaker and right below you will find the wire harness for the OEM actuator, pull the purple & blue wires out slightly.
I opted tap into the wires rather then cut them and put connectors.
8. I opted to pull the wires through this rubber wire housing.
9. Clamp down the rod and oem actuator wire together ( Do not over tighten cause you'll crack the clamp.)
10. Fit the wire with the desired connectors ( i purchased connectors that matched those that came with the actuator ) and connect to the actuator and test.
Last edited by Mannyz33; 08-24-2009 at 07:53 PM.
#45
Originally Posted by Mannyz33
Works really well.
Will do the drivers side once i get a new clamp, one of them came stripped.
Took me about 3hrs.....I don't see the drivers side taking more than an hour now that I know what to exactly expect.
Will do the drivers side once i get a new clamp, one of them came stripped.
Took me about 3hrs.....I don't see the drivers side taking more than an hour now that I know what to exactly expect.
now i need to find time to get it fixed!