$5 Door Lock Actuator fix updated thread
 

Original thread here: https://g35driver.com/forums/interio...uator-fix.html

This is an updated thread to the original. Will be more helpful having all the videos (pics coming shortly) in the original post.

Here is the installation process:

Materials needed:
$5 Universal Door Lock from Parts Express: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=330-010
10" of aluminum bar (I get aluminum bars in 8ft x 3/4" x 1/8") (for making a bracket to mount the actuator to, make 90 degree bends with a 1" tab on both ends)
3.5 ft of wire (estimated) (cut in 2 equal lengths)
2 red butt connectors
2 blue bullet connectors (female)

Making the bracket: Cut aluminum bar to a length of 10 inches. I've found a good size of bar is 3/4" wide x 1/8" thick.
Bend up 1" on each end, making an 8" bracket. Drill a hole in the top middle of each tab, these are to mount the bracket to the door panel.
Next place the actuator on the bracket so you can get accurate placement for the holes you need to drill (use a 4mm drill bit, fits right thru the screw holes in the actuator).
Mount the actuator as far back as you can on the bracket, then cut the actuator rod that comes with the kit to a length of 8" (same length as the bracket).

Tools needed:
Large long neck phillips head screwdriver (for removing the door panel)
Regular #2 phillips head screwdriver
4mm drill bit (and power drill)
Wire crimpers
I find a pocket knife is helpful too

Procedure:
Step 1, remove door panel.
The door panel is secured by 3 phillips head bolts, first remove the little cover in the inner door handle area using a pocket knife so you can remove it gently.
Remove the bolt you just revealed.
Next is removing the inner handle cover. Look at the bottom of it, for 03-04's there is a little niche that your key fits into, use your key to pry up the handle cover.
For 05-07's there is no niche, so you will need to use a pocket knife to remove this gently and without damage.
Remove the 2 phillips head bolts you just revealed behind the handle cover. The bottom one is why you need a long neck screwdriver.
Starting from the part of the door panel nearest the car, pull from the bottom corner near the front of the car. The whole panel is secured using universal panel push pins
that just pop out and back in. (if any are brittle and hard, they will break)
Pull the panel all along the bottom until it is just handing from the window ledge, and the lift the panel vertically starting from the side towards the rear of the car.

The panel is off, but still attached to the car in a few ways. First remove the door latch cable and door lock cable from the inner housing.
Next remove the plug for the lower light that will be on because the door is open. I usually use a screwdriver or knife to push in the release button.
Now push out your window controls from inside the door panel, it just pops out. And then unplug it. I also use a screwdriver to push in the release button.
Now the door panel is completely free, lay it somewhere safe, or carefully lean it up against the car, because we will be working with it soon.

Get your large screwdriver (or 10mm socket) to remove the speaker in the door. There are 3 screws holding it in.
Once removed, there is a sticky lining holding the speaker in, and there are 2 plastic tabs holding it in. Carefully pull out the speaker.
I keep the speaker plugged in and let it dangle facing towards the door so that the magnet doesn't stick to the door.
Reach inside (a little bit easier with the window up) the hole the speaker was in, and there is a plastic black conduit.
Reveal a section of wiring. If driver side, there will be 5 wires wrapped in electrical tape. If passenger side there will only be the purple and blue wires we need.
Find the true blue and purple wires (driver side will have a light blue wire as well, leave this alone).
Cut them as far to the rear of the car as you can, you want to work with the end of the wires lead to inside the car.
I find it easier to have the new wires desheathed and with a butt connector and bullet connector on each of the 2 wires you have.
Desheath the blue and purple wires you just cut in order to attach the red butt connectors on the new wire.
Now pop open one of the hole covers to run the wire thru, and replace the speaker.

Now we work with the door panel. Probably best to watch the video than to try to explain it in detail.

Remove the inner door handle housing using the #2 screw driver (3 screws).
With this you drill a hole with your drill leading into the inner door lock switch. Make it about 4mm above the niche that the door lock cable goes thru.
Next you remove the tab that is on the door lock switch. In the video I just use a drill with lateral movement to remove the tab.
Short blade scissors work well too. This is needed to make some space in there for more hardware.

Once you have installed the bracket with the actuator secured to it, inside the plastic splines (better explained in video), then run the rod in actuators eyelit thru
to the newly modified inner door lock housing.
Next get the little mounting bracket and 3 small screws (included in the kit) and put the rod in the bracket and secure it with a screw.
Now bring the panel up to the door and attach the door release, and then we are going to attach the door lock cable.
This can be somewhat difficult, but after you've done it 20 times it's still a PITA.
Put the door lock cable thru the lower part of the bracket and stick the tab into the hole in the switch.
Now secure it with the other 2 little screws, and MAKE SURE IT DOESN'T PULL THE TAB OUT OF THE HOLE!
You will need to reposition this a couple times to make it perfect. Move the switch a few times and watch the tab to make sure it won't ever get pulled out of the hole.
Move the new actuator rod back and forth to make sure it has full motion to lock and unlock, then make sure all the little screws in the small bracket are TIGHT!
If the little screws get loose, it can result in you not being able to lock your car until you get back in the door panel and resecure this bracket.
Hey it's better than not being able to unlock your door.
Now plug the actuator into the wires you connected earlier and grab your key fob and hit lock and unlock a few times to watch it work.
Look at the switch to make sure it locks when you hit lock. If it unlocks when you hit lock, and vice versa, switch around the wires you plugged into the actuator.
Once satisfied with the actuator locking and unlocking the door, plug in the lower light of the door panel, and pull the plug that goes to the window controls thru
it's hole and put the door panel back on the door, and plug the window controls back in place.
Do one last test of the door lock actuator, and then resecure the door panel, and you're done!

Videos of the process:

sticky status!

How much to 78251? You take PP!

Bumpage. Added pics of plastic modifications and installed product to OP.

Want to order your install kit.
 

Hi Pythonjosh
Left you a PM on Monday, would like to order one kit, I'm in San Diego area, hope to hear back from you soon.

Thanks Josh for helping me with my insall, here is my contribution. Im gonna write up what i found when doing this... Hope these tips help others and avoid going through what i did. After getting the door off finally i did i 110% this time.

1. Route your wires you spliced into (purple and blue) under the BOSE speaker.
Tip: Put a bit of tape on the blue wire so you know which is which if you used the same coloured wires.
Attachment 240385

2. Take off the inner door handle, you want to drill where the smaller hole is
Tip: have the bottom of the hole line up with the bottom of the existing cable hole. Mine could have been a tiny bit closer to the bigger hole (which was a mistake) dont drill the big one..
Attachment 240386

3. Now drill a hole in the closest plastic tab to the inner door lock.
Tip: The hole should be 2cm high, 1.5cm in.
Attachment 240387

4. Mount the Actuator
Tip: height should be around 2.5cm from the top of the door trim. Also put two screws on angles at the back to stop the brack from twisting when unlocking and locking.
Attachment 240388

5. Tape lock the 3 screw bracket
Tip: Pull the tape as you put it on, too much and it will bunch up
Attachment 240389

6. Mount the door lock cable FIRST then run the actuator rod into the bracket.
Tip: The way you mount it right is all the difference

RIGHT way: Notice the L shape pin is push into the hole
Attachment 240390

WRONG WAY: See the pin is sitting out, DONT install like this
Attachment 240391

This bit is sort of Step 6a...
Once you have the locking cable with bracket attached put that little L pin in the door lock bracket and click the cable in the hole. Now you will have to take the Actuator off again so you can put the rod in the end (i forgot to measure how much i cut off) and then put the rod through the first hole in the white tab and then through the black hole you made in the inner door lock bracket.
Tip: As you put it through the hole you then put the rod through the top 3 screw bracket. DONT tighten yet. Hook up power to the actuator and see how far the rod goes in the unlock position, if clearance is good Now use a flat blade screw driver to tighten that last screw. Now test manually and with your remote heaps of times. Once right silicone that MF. Put some on the screws and some under where that L pin is.
Attachment 240392

Your done!
Just make sure the actuator can EASILY open and close, you dont want ANY struggle.

If done good yours should look like these videos. CLICK THEM TO PLAY
Locking mechanism: See how strong the actuating is, it fully opens and closes with the L pin always in the hole. I am trying to show that the bottom of the pin is visible at the bottom of the bracket.
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...h_IMG_1632.jpg

Actuator Mount: See There is very little flex when it actuates
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...IMG_1633-1.jpg

Inside door lock: Again see how it fully locks and unlocks, you dont want it to only move half way..
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...h_IMG_1637.jpg

Your kit didn't have mounting hardware? (screws thru bracket into the plastic)
Why did you silicone the actuator rod bracket?
Looks like it's gonna last a good while for ya, congrats

What do you mean screws tru bracket into the plastic? what mounting hardware?

I used silicone as i didnt have any red locktight and didnt ever want those small screws to come loose (going over bumpy roads = vibration) and end up not being able to open my door again like last time. I also put a dab on the bottom of that L pin on the end of the cable so it is less likely to come out of the hole..

Yeah it better last a good while !!!! Thanks for your help :)

2003 g35 coup
 

just wondering i would like to purchase driver side kit for 2003 g35 coup actuator how do i go about it and do you ship to montreal quebec, Canada. let me know bro thanks.

You've got PM

I definitely recommend Josh
 

Josh helped me with my '04 driver's side actuator and driver's side window motor that went bad. He was definitely easy to work with, he made sure I was happy, I learned something in the process, and it was a hell of a lot cheaper than what the dealer wanted to charge me...and I mean a hell of a lot cheaper.

I recommend working with josh. And good luck to everyone out there with these crappy window motors. It is no fun when your window starts moving up and down on its own.

^^ window motors? Windows moving up and down on their own?

These are for door lock actuators....

I did WoofManJack's Door Lock and window motor. Window motors are the second most common problem with us coupes lol

^^ That makes more sense. lol

I'll see your window motor as the second most common problem and raise you the stock stereo. :)

hahaha, yep I've had all 3 problems. I've heard you can take out the stereo and give it a good fwap upside the head, and it works again, but don't trust any farther than you can throw it, plugged in.
And I'll raise ya a disconnected trunk popper/actuator :biggthumpup: