5AT 3.5 final drive differential swap.
#31
+1 on the NISMO cams feedback.
Anyone have ideas on how to correct the cruise-control issue yet? That's a bit of a concern, as I want all mods to come across an OEM options. A glitchy cruise-control just won't cut it.
I really would enjoy the 3.9, as most of my driving is in-town, with only a couple of miles of highway driving M-F. I've had my eye on this swap for a good while now. Just waiting for the bugs to get worked out. That and the added up-front cost and core exchange tend to push to cost up there a bit.
Anyone have ideas on how to correct the cruise-control issue yet? That's a bit of a concern, as I want all mods to come across an OEM options. A glitchy cruise-control just won't cut it.
I really would enjoy the 3.9, as most of my driving is in-town, with only a couple of miles of highway driving M-F. I've had my eye on this swap for a good while now. Just waiting for the bugs to get worked out. That and the added up-front cost and core exchange tend to push to cost up there a bit.
#32
re: Nismo Cams
I had the heads ported and polished when the cams were done. This was huge - next to the gears I expect these two mods are the best you can do. The car drives fine - slight rocking, for the increased lope. Idle is at 650-700 - and clean - like I said - a small lope - so it feels like the race car it should be.
Mid and top end EXPLODE...gears will handle the bottom end...and WOW - I expect miracles and a completely new car. I get the car back today and will let you know first impressions. I'm going to the track next week and will post after that as well.
I had the heads ported and polished when the cams were done. This was huge - next to the gears I expect these two mods are the best you can do. The car drives fine - slight rocking, for the increased lope. Idle is at 650-700 - and clean - like I said - a small lope - so it feels like the race car it should be.
Mid and top end EXPLODE...gears will handle the bottom end...and WOW - I expect miracles and a completely new car. I get the car back today and will let you know first impressions. I'm going to the track next week and will post after that as well.
#33
#34
"...The car drives fine - slight rocking, for the increased lope. Idle is at 650-700 - and clean - like I said - a small lope - so it feels like the race car it should be."
what do u mean by slight rocking?? also does your rpm move up and down while idling? any dyno numbers? did u have to retune your ecu?
what do u mean by slight rocking?? also does your rpm move up and down while idling? any dyno numbers? did u have to retune your ecu?
#35
#36
OK...3.92's are in and everything I expected them to be. We first put in the 3.5's, just for reference, and they worked well...but they just didn't get the car out of the 4kRPM range fast enough. The 3.92's - well, another story. THE CAR ROCKS!
I raced a few local G35 6MT's, well mod'd, and beat the crap out of 'em. They never knew what hit them...especially from a non-FI Auto!
If you want the WOW in your car - you've got to do 3.92's! No questions asked - no prisoners taken!
80 MPH RPM is 3400 - 60 MPH RPM is 2400 - Gas mileage change = negligent.
You gotta do it...and do it right...the first time!
I raced a few local G35 6MT's, well mod'd, and beat the crap out of 'em. They never knew what hit them...especially from a non-FI Auto!
If you want the WOW in your car - you've got to do 3.92's! No questions asked - no prisoners taken!
80 MPH RPM is 3400 - 60 MPH RPM is 2400 - Gas mileage change = negligent.
You gotta do it...and do it right...the first time!
#37
#40
#41
Originally Posted by GT-Ron
Did you opt for the assembled unit or just the ring & pinion set? Also, did you stick with the OEM LSD or did you upgrade to the NISMO or OS Giken unit?
How's 1st gear for you? Pretty useless now?
How's 1st gear for you? Pretty useless now?
To save downtime - go to a junkyard and pick up a 6MT housing and then have the gears swapped into it - shimmed and all - then just swap the pumpkin and your set with a one day install. Otherwise - your car will be down for about a week.
For daily driving - you gotta have the OEM VLSD - if your road racing - go Nismo or Giken - the latter units are not really streetable.
First gear is great - massive hole shot an a little less than it was - definately not lost though...with the other mods - I also shift at at 7600R's...so I've got room...
#42
#43
Originally Posted by GT-Ron
smacks forehead
Right... ...cams, port/polish... lol ...must be a blast!
And I'll go with the assembled pumpkin if they have the housings available at that time. I figured the Nismo LSD would be too agressive for street use. But with them being so close in price, I had to ask.
Right... ...cams, port/polish... lol ...must be a blast!
And I'll go with the assembled pumpkin if they have the housings available at that time. I figured the Nismo LSD would be too agressive for street use. But with them being so close in price, I had to ask.
#45
< < EDIT > > - BTW, any solution to the cruise-control problem found yet?
Depends on the amount of work you want to do yourself or have a shop do. You'll probably pay close to the same either way, but down-time is a variable factor.
Just the 3.9 ring & pinion set is about half the cost of a pre-assembled unit, however, the r&p set will have to be installed into your stock differential housing (pumpkin). This means a good bit of down-time for a good differential shop to do a proper install.
The pre-assembled unit has all of the hard, internal work done, allowing most general auto mechanics to install the pre-assembled pumpkin. This also takes less time. Either way, you're paying for the labor. With the pre-assembled unit, you will also pay a $650 core charge that will be refunded when they recieve your stock pumpkin that you ship back to them.
Depends on the amount of work you want to do yourself or have a shop do. You'll probably pay close to the same either way, but down-time is a variable factor.
Just the 3.9 ring & pinion set is about half the cost of a pre-assembled unit, however, the r&p set will have to be installed into your stock differential housing (pumpkin). This means a good bit of down-time for a good differential shop to do a proper install.
The pre-assembled unit has all of the hard, internal work done, allowing most general auto mechanics to install the pre-assembled pumpkin. This also takes less time. Either way, you're paying for the labor. With the pre-assembled unit, you will also pay a $650 core charge that will be refunded when they recieve your stock pumpkin that you ship back to them.
Last edited by GT-Ron; 10-06-2005 at 03:16 PM.