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About 6 years ago, when I first got the G, I replaced all the interior lights with LED bulbs from VLEDS.com. I really thought you get what you pay for, as the bulbs they sell are NOT cheap. Low and behold most of them burned out within a few months. I never bothered with their warranty, as I've dealth with their crappy warranty claims over the past 10 years or so.
Anyways, I was on the hunt recently for some nice LED bulbs with a crisp white light with no hint of blue (5000K). I came across a great brand on Amazon with amazing reviews called JDMAstar. Never heard of them but the reviews told me to give it a shot. Here is the result:
Very pleased so far!!! Definately on the 5000K side. I hope these JDMAstar bulbs last a long time. It's amazing what VLED's charge for their crap. $14 PER bulb??!??? Some even cost $18 PER bulb.
But my OEM **** looks like crap, the Infiniti dealer wants something like $200 for a new one. Had a ratchet shifter (B&M Star Shifter) in my Chevelle and a genuine Hurst shifter in my Z/28, both of which had the T-handle. Just like the way it feels. Lowers the shifter height which by default shortens the throw. And it does match the center stack. Come at me.
What type of paint do you use for blacking out your car? i want to do a chrome delete and blacken the tailights but idk of any good spray paint. i’ve used plastidip on my grill and tailights but that was a mess
Replaced my fuel pressure regulator to solve a long crank problem that's been plaguing me for a couple months now. Car would crank about 5 seconds before stumbling to a start. Would always start on second crank if I stopped cranking after the normal crank time. Wasn't sure if it was FPR or fuel pump or something else. Key on and wait to prime pump twice would help but was a pain in the ***. FSM said to check fuel pressure but the test kit was too much so after watching lots of long crank videos on youtube, I diagnosed (guessed) it was the FPR and gambled on replacing it for $40 (rockauto) without any other diagnostics. It was a super easy replacement following a diy on this site. I found my pump housing latches were half disengaged like somebody didn't put it back together correctly before and the plastic had been in that position so long that the plastic had taken a set like that and they won't really engage properly now. It's mostly just jammed together and held by latches on one side but seems fine. Car starts great now.
Removal was really easy but one lesson I learned is that it's difficult to take that stuff out of the tank without getting at least a tiny amount of gas on something which stinks up the car. And a day after I got everything back together I got a flashing check engine light for a misfire on cylinder 1. It went away after I parked it but now I don't know if it's something related to my work or just another new random thing going wrong that's going to come back when I'm far from home. Seems like the car can never just be fine with 0 issues. Always something to work on.
Also ordered a Megan racing y-pipe for Christmas to replace my oem pipe that's been leaking at the flex section for a year now. Tried to fix it cheaply but nothing worked long term and no local shop would weld in a new flex section. So I'm going to try and bust those rusty nuts and do it myself.
Replaced my fuel pressure regulator to solve a long crank problem that's been plaguing me for a couple months now. Car would crank about 5 seconds before stumbling to a start. Would always start on second crank if I stopped cranking after the normal crank time. Wasn't sure if it was FPR or fuel pump or something else. Key on and wait to prime pump twice would help but was a pain in the ***. FSM said to check fuel pressure but the test kit was too much so after watching lots of long crank videos on youtube, I diagnosed (guessed) it was the FPR and gambled on replacing it for $40 (rockauto) without any other diagnostics. It was a super easy replacement following a diy on this site. I found my pump housing latches were half disengaged like somebody didn't put it back together correctly before and the plastic had been in that position so long that the plastic had taken a set like that and they won't really engage properly now. It's mostly just jammed together and held by latches on one side but seems fine. Car starts great now.
Removal was really easy but one lesson I learned is that it's difficult to take that stuff out of the tank without getting at least a tiny amount of gas on something which stinks up the car. And a day after I got everything back together I got a flashing check engine light for a misfire on cylinder 1. It went away after I parked it but now I don't know if it's something related to my work or just another new random thing going wrong that's going to come back when I'm far from home. Seems like the car can never just be fine with 0 issues. Always something to work on.
Also ordered a Megan racing y-pipe for Christmas to replace my oem pipe that's been leaking at the flex section for a year now. Tried to fix it cheaply but nothing worked long term and no local shop would weld in a new flex section. So I'm going to try and bust those rusty nuts and do it myself.
I hear ya on that. Every once in a while on a cold start my G would misfire, then once it's warm it would run fine. Spark plugs are new and I put in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner not too long ago so I'm assuming it's one of the coil packs or fuel injectors. I had a lot of repairs done to this car so hopefully getting this fixed would be the end of them for a while.
I don't seem to get on these forums as much lately, but it is still a great resource for the long term owner. My 06 G35x is still going strong. Did the spark plugs around 102k miles and that make it run a bit better, but not a huge difference. Need to source a driver side rear door seal, the rubber is ripped. I had to add a little more than a quart of oil to her. That is the first time I have ever seen it down on oil. When I did the plugs, not a drop in the spark plug valleys, no leaks. Its been clean and tight since I bought her new with 4 miles on the odo.
Since I'm now around 107k miles.. its time for fluids to get changed. Slowly gathering up fluids for a transmission (drain and fill, just doing it slowly), transfer case, front and rear diffs, coolant, and then maybe brake fluid and steering fluid after that.
I'm hoping the oil thing was a fluke, but I have to keep an eye on it. I really wish the damn oil dipstick was like the one on my wifes 2017 Infiniti QX50. That 3.7l vq has a perfectly straight dip stick, dead front and center on the motor. I've been using Mobil1 5w-30 forever on it. Now I use the Mobil 1 extended performance since its true synthetic. Also using it in 5w-20 on my Land Rover LR4.
I assume a lot of people that read these forums are now in pure maintenance mode? I used to mod the **** out of mine, lowered on eibach, stillen catback, bunch of stuff.. but shes basically stock now, with nice tint, clear corners, and a pop charger z-tube for sound. (ive even thought about going back to OEM intake just so I can use paper filters. I am mixed about K&N oil.)
Replaced the battery today, date on it was 12/12 so 5 years and a month in north Texas is pretty damn good.
Didn't completely die but after the cold snap here it was cranking slower and still was after it warmed up. I know better than to wait and get stuck somewhere.
Google showed both the 24 and 35 sizes are supposed to fit, drove my Honda to get the battery so wasn't positive which one I needed, so decided since the terminals were the same I'd go with the smaller 35 size and glad I did because that's what mine takes...and damn is it a tight fit. Glad that fuse box is easy to move out of the way.
