If "judder" = shudder/vibration then something is wrong and needs to be fixed. Typically it's warped brake rotors. Also using a pad designed for a race track will usually develop bad characteristics if used on the road for a normal daily drive, they build up a slight glaze under light braking (typical city traffic use) and it's INTENDED that they be ridden extremely hard on a track which removes the glazing. Buy pads that are intended for what duty the vehicle will actually see, that glazing can cause significant vibration if allowed to accumulate.

 

they are noisy, especially if your braking gently! they are not so bad if driving aggressively, but that is not always the best idea lol. the dust is bad too this is regardless of how you brake i think. depending on your mindset they will be brilliant pads or a nightmare.
personally i never clean my wheels. like EVER. so my front wheels are basically brake dust grey. i don't care. the noise with the windows up is negligible (inside) and i often drive it as therapy so the noise is actually lower than if i was driving miss daisy to the tea shop. you may prefer the HPS if this doesn't sound like fun.

what pads are you using currently? oem?

 

Thanks for the quick responses.
I just bought an 08 g35x two days ago from the original owner so I would assume oem rotors/pads (didn't seem like a aftermarket type of guy). You mean noisy as in squeaking at every stop sign? that might get annoying but I do enjoy aggressive driving, I could deal with a mild brake scraping sound.
I read that HPS might also leave these "shudder" causing deposits after 10k of driving, at that time would re-bedding the pads work with hps?

@cleric670, "what duty the vehicle will actually see" is kind of complicated but I'll try. I drive 15-20 minutes to work on back roads and may occasionally be hard on brakes, ok often. I rarely drive in traffic but will never see track time. Maybe the HP+ are a little to aggressive. I cant remember if it's ceramic or metalic (composite?) that takes a while to warm up for good bite? 15 minutes might not do it...maybe that's a good thing to avoid glazing?

OMG sorry for all the questions I just hate brake shudder.

 

squeally pig at nearly ever gentle stop haha! the initial cold bite is terrific with hp+ even a bit aggressive. you may be a contender for them if you brake hard. you may find you need grippier tires next lol
i use 255f 275r to avoid abs interruptions.
your tolerance for dust and noise are the swing factors imo.
i have hps on my daily nissan xtrail, no shudder-ever.

 

Thanks for the info. I may go with the hps and cetric rotors, I might be able to deal with the squealing but my wife won't. I'll try the HP+ on my S2000

 

Yeah you definitely want the HPS, HP+ are basically track use only.

 

HPS are ceramic or composite? Which ones will brake smoother longer?

Anyone try these?

 

i've purchased my '07 sedan with a bad steering wheel vibration at highway speeds almost two years ago. the prior owner claimed they've replaced front pads, but kept the rotors, so i replaced the rotors and the vibrations did not go away. i've lived with it for the time being, but it's gotten annoying, so i decided to resurface the front rotors and get her some new pads (ebc reds). it appeared to have cured the highway braking steering vibration, as i was bedding the pads in. however, i've discovered the shudder/judder/vibration only happened when lightly pressing the brakes. you could feel it slightly at lower speeds, but anything above 60 was very pronounced. i've made sure the pins were not seized and even purchased a brand new set as the old ones had the rubber sleeves/bushings swollen. suspension looked great as well.

i then stumbled upon multiple threads about the 2nd gen and the tsb, and some folks mentioned replacing the rear pads/rotors did the trick. something about this G applying more brake pressure to the rear to keep the car steady. i've visually checked the rear rotors and nothing really looked off, and the pads still had about 1/4 or a bit more life left in them. not feeling too optimistic, i've ordered brand new rotors and pads for the rear. while taking the passenger rear pads off, i've noticed the inside pad had a very uneven pattern with the pronounced wear in the middle and top and a lot less on the bottom. sure 'nuff, the rotor had the same kind of wear pattern on its back as well (top and middle good and bottom almost non-existent), as well as some very uneven deposits on it (aka warpage). of course, the pos metal shield was blocking me from seeing and inspecting the back side. threw the new stuff on and went for another bed-in. zero vibrations. very strange stuff, indeed.

i am kind of puzzled as to why this kind of wear happened in the first place. the piston seemed to have retracted just fine with a c clamp, no different than the driver side. there was no indication that the piston was not applying the proper pressure on the back of the pad, as it had the same type of indent in it as the driver side pad. could it be vdc related? Does the VDC really turn off? - Page 2 - G35Driver - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion air bubble in the line? i might give that caliper a quick bleed or just leave it alone and see if the issuer resurfaces again.

hopefully this is helpful to some of the people out there experiencing this shudder/judder/wheel vibrations.

 

Even a little drag on the slide pins causes weird braking problems but it sounds like you probably just had a warped rotors.

Warped rear rotors on sports cars are usually from people abusing the hand brake... or leaving it a little engaged then driving off and cooking a bit of the pad and torching the rotor.

However, you should check for bad rear wheel alignment or rear wheel bearing issues which can put pressure on the rotor on ways it's not intended to handle.

 

this is automatic, so foot brake lol the shoes actually looked a bit meatier on the warped side. the caliper piston bracket was a bitch to slide out, like the piston was catching on something, so that was my first clue. the only warpage is on the inside of the rotor towards the piston. i'm including some pics below, as well as some threads talking about vdc and worn rear pads. i mostly drive with vdc off, so won't be an issue lol

i wiggled both rear wheels as good as i could to check for any play and there wasn't any. i had a bad rear wheel bearing before on my '03 and it was like a jet plane taking off at higher speeds lol she tracks as an arrow as well. i'll keep an eye on it and update if i notice anything weird. i hate reading threads that have no resolutions...

https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...e-front-2.html
https://www.nissanmurano.org/threads...ontrol.199129/
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...10k-miles.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...15k-miles.html
https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-...-pad-wear.html
https://www.bendix.com.au/bendix-new...bility-control

"In rear wheel drive cars, clever traction and stability programs are used in place of a limited slip differential, by braking the inside or outside rear wheels to improve handling and traction. Stability control programs also brake the inside rear wheels to prevent understeer in emergency situations."





left is driver side rear vs passenger on the right

 

The only time I've seed VDC eating the brakes is if you do a LOT of winter driving (or live somewhere that it rains frequently) where you're slipping the rear a lot with a heavy pedal foot. Some people will literally just stand on the throttle in the snow (or wet roads) and "let the car do the rest" almost the whole time they're driving. In those cases where you are experiencing a lot of random wheel slip the VDC is actuating individual brakes a lot in order to transfer torque to the non-power tire and yes it CAN unevenly wear brakes.

However the VDC light is flashing at you the entire time so YOU KNOW if you're doing it wrong.

There's a bit of a mis-description in that last line you posted though, it doesn't brake the inside or outside of the wheel. It brakes either the left or the right side tire, whichever tire is spinning the ABS motor provides the braking pressure and the solenoid operates on a fixed duty cycle to pulse pressure to the brakes to slow the wheel spin and due to the nature of an open differential when you clamp the spinning tire the torque is automatically delivered to the other tire. At the same time the VDC system is operating the engine throttle is cut IF YOU HAVE THE VDC TURNED ON. This is designed to keep the braking system from being overworked by limiting engine torque to keep the wheel spin to a minimum otherwise the tires a spinning VERY fast while it's applying braking pressure.

Disabling VDC turns off the throttle cut, and disables MOST of the VDC but it's been well documented that the system does still operate to some degree (as far as I know no one has ever been able to verify exactly what conditions it still operates at with the VDC off) unless you either spin a few donuts to confuse the system into turning itself completely off or by interrupting power to the control unit. In this scenario I suspect brake wear while spinning the tires would be greatly accelerated because the tires will be allowed to spin so much faster before brakes are applied due to not having the throttle cut enabled.

However the wear on that side might have nothing to do with VDC or braking control...

It definitely looks like you had one rotor doing the bulk of the work, the scoring looks significantly worse on that side which is normally from heavy braking. It could definitely be caused by a caliper sticking either because of the slide pins or because of the piston itself sticking. I would CAREFULLY apply brake pressure with the calipers disconnected from the rotor, use your hand on the brake pedal not your foot and just gently press a couple times until the piston is out a little bit. Then use your hands (shouldn't need to use c-clamp with the bleed valve open but sometimes it's still too hard) and push them both back in (open the fluid valve so the fluid isn't pushed back into the ABS controller which is bad for it plus it's easier to push the piston in by hand) and verify that both pistons push in with the same pressure. If the one on the side with the extra wear feels like it doesn't retract as easily then replace the caliper.

I'm pretty sure you can get the Nissan caliper rebuild kits for the non-akebono V36 calipers, I think they're the same calipers that are on my 2006 coupe??? and I know that the rebuild kits are still available for my car. You might just rebuild both calipers to rule them out as the problem, or replace if you don't feel like rebuilding them yourself.