DIY: Clean your throttle bodies
#196
I didn't have a concern with anything until "After" I cleaned the TB's for the first time at 53K. Yuk. The DIY was simple, the task easy... I never disconnected ANY harnesses or tubing other than the intake from the TB's. Removed TB's cleaned with mild detergent (K&N cleaner), rag, toothbrush and bling bling... then there was the NEW problem that I apparently created. I noticed the RPM's at idle were different over several starts. I did the ECU reporgramming and it was the same. I called the Infiniti shops and they said as long as the RPM's at idle are between 700-900 RPM's (based on power usage, i.e. defrost/AC, etc) that this was normal. They said to drive it for a couple trips and see what happens. What do you know, everything's back to normal after 3 trips around town including freeway for 20 miles.
The ECU relearns the driving habits and idle according to Infiniti of Kirkland as long as you DON'T disconnect any harnesses. If you're idle is inconsistent, up and down or all over the place... you may want to take it in, spend the $65-$85 to have them reset it. Great DIY, but I wonder why it's not mentioned that there WILL be a minor idle issue.
The ECU relearns the driving habits and idle according to Infiniti of Kirkland as long as you DON'T disconnect any harnesses. If you're idle is inconsistent, up and down or all over the place... you may want to take it in, spend the $65-$85 to have them reset it. Great DIY, but I wonder why it's not mentioned that there WILL be a minor idle issue.
#197
Registered User
iTrader: (7)
The idle issues seem to happen to some cars and not others. I've cleaned mine a couple times now. Also did the same for a couple friends. no idle issues after cleaning. However since there's a number of posts now on that I've just added a note towards the end just in case.
#198
Clear them and see if they come back. P0507 probably won't. As for P0327 I'm not sure what triggered it as the TB's don't really have anything to do with it. Anyhow, what is your car idling at right now? Should be around 650rpm +/- 50rpm with the car warmed up and all accessories and ac/heater OFF.
#199
go for it
It was easy... I felt the same way until I actually tried it. Whatever u do don't disconnect any tubes or connectorsto the tb's. Just take off the intakes, unscrew the bolts to the tb's, use a mild detergent (I used a toothbrush and k&n filter cleaner), and be careful not to mess with the o ring unless you're going to replace them. What I got was a higher idle at 900 rpm then eventually down to 7-800 rpm. The ecu adjusts automatically as long as YOU DON'T DISCONNECT THE TB HARNESS. When cleaning you can move the butterfly valve to get into the tougher spots. Expect your ecu to adjust over a couple trips. I did mine for the first time at 54k. Yuk. Id recommend every 25k after seeing what I saw. Also, be careful not to push any goo into any sensitive parts. Clean with a cotton rag to catch all the goo. Then use a clean rag and toothbrush to clean the tb's. Hope this helps.
#201
Turns out I had to replace the TB and Knock sensor . but my idle and throttle is still bad , the mechanic said I have to update my "ECU" aka Reflash by the Dealer.... or any shop that can update OEM Nissan ECU's...
He performed all the ECU reset and Idle Relearn but it just stops after you turn the car off. Hopefully these updates will save this car from its misery ..........
He performed all the ECU reset and Idle Relearn but it just stops after you turn the car off. Hopefully these updates will save this car from its misery ..........
#206
I have to add my 2 cents to this thread. I just turned 60k on my G35 6MT and thought I would do this. I'm glad I did. My throttle bodies, while not exceptionally dirty, did have a lot of build up around the closed position and on the edges of the throttle body plates. I was having a small issue with idle but had also been having an issue with jerkiness during shifting. Once I cleaned them out and got all the build up off, I noticed that my shifting was much smoother. I can only assume that the build up was causing the throttle bodies to hang up in the closed position and then jerking open when I reapplied throttle after the shift. This issue is now gone and my idle is now solid as a rock.
I followed the instructions EXACTLY and also replace my o-ring gaskets. The new ones are black now by the way. A few WOT applications and my idle settled right at 750 -800RPM. Also, it now feels like my throttle bodies are now closing all the way because when I let off the gas on deceleration, it goes to no flow and slows down instead of just feeling like it I was still giving it a little bit of gas like it used to.
Anyway, great DIY and it took me under 2 hours (I work slowly so as to not lose/break stuff). Highly recommend this. Thanks!
I followed the instructions EXACTLY and also replace my o-ring gaskets. The new ones are black now by the way. A few WOT applications and my idle settled right at 750 -800RPM. Also, it now feels like my throttle bodies are now closing all the way because when I let off the gas on deceleration, it goes to no flow and slows down instead of just feeling like it I was still giving it a little bit of gas like it used to.
Anyway, great DIY and it took me under 2 hours (I work slowly so as to not lose/break stuff). Highly recommend this. Thanks!
#207
#209
No sizing though? I'd assume buying the o-rings off McMaster or similar would be far cheaper than through the dealership (and then I don't have to drive all the way there :-) )
#210
The part number for my 2008 is 16175-JK21A and they were $8 each. You need 2 of them of course. They actually are called gasket-adapters and frankly I would personally not use anything else as they appear to have a unique design specific to this application. My 2 cents...