Made a quick video of the process. Notice that I did not disconnect the battery, harness or move the TB plates. Like I said you can try this method and it will fix the idle issues but the cleaning will not be as thorough. Figured those who don't wanna have any idle issues after cleaning should try this method instead. I also included a cold start and warm idle after cleaning as well as some revving to show you the idle afterwards.

 

Just cleaned mine at 46K miles, without disconnecting any electrical leads/connectors. Idle is now smooth as silk. Orig problem was the common erratic idle and sometimes stalling when closing throttle. Thanks, great tips! I'll do this cleaning every 15k miles now as preventive maint.

 

Just out of curiosity . . .

1) What brand and grade of gasoline do you typically use?
2) What brand of air filter do you typically use, and how often do you change it?
3) What brand of oil and oil filters do you typically use, and how often do you change them?

Thanks

 

To add to my cleaning today, I actually swiveled the throttle plates to clean all areas, no problems Throttle bodies definitely were gunked up on the insides. I use the CRC cleaner, and also checked my MAF elements, they're still clean.

Anyway answering your questions:
1) Not very choosy, usually Chevron or Costco, they're both close to home. Idle problems actually started happening at appx 40k, steadily getting worse.
2) OEM Nissan element, about every 15k miles. It's not too dusty where I commute.
3) Only use Mobil 1 and Nissan OEM filters, about 5 to 7k miles between changes.

 

I just replaced my spark plugs and thus, had to take off the throttle bodies. I took them completely off so I could spay them with carb cleaner and clean them thoroughly. Once reinstalled, I did the idle re-learn and good to go. Don't be afraid to unplug anything.

 

Well,, you two guys are just a couple that has NOT had issus after doing all this..... good job!!

 

THANK YOU SO Much guys, took my G35 to a garage here in Dubai asked them to clean the Throttle body, they charged me some money as i am not very Car DIY person Thank God Problem is solved, I have seen the problem ,, and car runs much better and lighter!!

 

I do wish I would have read all the way through this thread before attempting the throttle body cleaning myself. If I had - there would had been no way I would have done it considering the possible issues. I cleaned mine because I had developed a problem at low RPM while idling at stops during driving - The car would cut out seeming like the butterfly valves were getting stuck when I tried to make gradual acceleration from stop lights, stop signs etc.

I left the battery and harness connected to both TB's and cleaned them gently WITH OUT moving the butterfly valves at all. When it came to cleaning the edges of them I used a soft bristle tooth brush and barely swiped near the edges. After was all done I bolted everything up and started the car. Everything "seemed" fine until after I drove the car about a mile. Got ready to park the car and noticed the car idling at 12-1300 RPM and the SES light came on.
Drove the car to Advanced auto and it was throwing a P0507 to which I got on this forum and searched to quickly find out about the re-learn procedure. I never thought I would have to do that since nothing was un-plugged or moved. I done the re-learn procedure over and over again for about 3 hours with no change in idle at all. I did time it and seemed to do everything right on spot with the engine warm.
I reluctantly took the car to the dealer today and spent $200.00 with what seems to be no major results. They told me that they worked on the car for 4 hours and could not get the car to re-learn at all. They consulted Infiniti corporate and they determined that the ECU NEEDED TO BE REPLACED?!?!?!?

WHAT THE HELL?! I do not understand how something as simple as cleaning some gunk off of a damn TB could result in a $1600.00 repair bill? There has to be some other solution to this other then replacing the ECU.

I did notice when I got back in the car that it was idling lower then it was before I took it in. Was at 900RPM and no SES light. I drove it home and pulled in at my apartment and after about 30sec. of idling the SES light came back on and the RPM was sitting in between 900-1000RPM. So maybe it will just take some driving around to fix it but I'm sure as hell going to prolong replacing the ECU as long as I can so I can try to locate another option. I may be affording to have my Infiniti but I don't have $1600.00 to play around with in "hopes" of fixing my idle.

I got told the same exact thing except they wanted to replace the ECU, not the TB's


I performed my TB cleaning exactly as you did and my idle went all to hell afterwards. Why couldnt mine had been this simple.

Good thing is....I have no hesitation now....So fixed one problem and caused another. Lovely.

 

This is the only thing that worked for me. The only thing, it was my last option before the stealership! At least give it a shot it worked for me.
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...-cleaning.html

 

If you can't get your idle to change at all with the pedal dance, it sounds very much like the procedure isn't being done correctly.

I did find that it wouldn't remember the new idle if there was any load on the battery, that meant even the cockpit fan for me.

 

Well I'm afraid to mess with it anymore because the dealer was able to get the idle from 1200 rpm down to the first mark under 1000, I'm going to assume that is 900. It seems to be pretty steady at that now. They tried setting it with there computer system, although I do not know if they even tried the "pedal dance" as you call it.

I wish there was a member local to me that could try it that has more experience.

 

after doing this...I say dont!

 

The cleaning is fine and worth it, if you have problems or a particularly dirty butterfly.

Unless there is a physical problem with the TB, it shouldn't cause issues.

The pedal dance, that's just the DIY version that the Nissan techs use the Consult system for, it won't mess anything up, so don't worry about that.

Most of the problems i've seen seem to be the dance doesn't get the timing right, then after that, it's just having a problem getting the new idle to be remembered. Your idle is lower now as it's learning where it should be, i don't think it will fully correct on it's own, but that's why its now down lower than it was.

 

Did this today using the method described in the video: unbolted intake from throttle bodies, using Allen key removed bodies and used carburetor cleaner applied to a clean cloth to remove the carbon. Took my time to do a good job.

There was a ton of carbon built up. I have 60,000 miles on mine and I thought everything was fine.

The car is much smoother now. It is more willing to rev match when downshifting. I also have a transgo valve body upgrade, and it has made shifting noticeably smoother. RPM's don't drop off as fast after a downshift or when slowing down.

It could be the placebo effect but the car seems quicker up top too!

Thanks again!

 

When i was having issues. Mine was stuck at 1200 i got it down to 1000 by doing the pedal reset like 30 times. I still knew 750 was the target. I'd give it a shot. The few people that asked me about it, then tried it has worked for them well. your only disconnecting the battery and harness for a few hours. not re-cleaning it. i feel ya though there is a point where you just wanna quit!