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Says he lives in ATL?
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Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
(Post 7152445)
I still think your bleed valve is on the wrong side though.
EDIT: Wait are you a RHD? |
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...a6130db241.jpg
Mine (heater hose on the passemger side going from the block to the heater core) just ruptured at pretty much bang on 100,000 miles. Huge cloud of white smoke behind me, at first I thought it was the head gasket. Ended up going to parts source and getting a replacement hose for $18 bucks. Took a lot longer than it should have as those clamps require a LOT of force and i didn't have great pliers. The oem part is actually 3 pieces and costs ~$100. Can i leave the parts source one piece hose in or should I switch it out? I doesn't have the plastic T connector just one formed hose. edit so theres an identical mirror hose on the drivers side that a ticking time bomb? Great.. |
If you have to buy something at a parts house just get a coolant backflush kit and install it in place of the factory TEE and bleed valve, it will function the same basically but is cheap and you'll be able to drive away that same day.
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Originally Posted by greg_atlanta
(Post 7152220)
I just had the same hose fail, I was sitting at McDonald's drive thru at 3 am and window started to fog up and smelled like coolant. Luckily I was only 2 miles from home and drove home very slowly, temp gauge moved to high range and got a slight rattle from engine going up a hill (water pump noise)? I'm going to get it towed to independent shop, it's my second breakdown in a month (just replaced starter recently) but otherwise almost no problems in 10 years 89K miles. (2008 sedan)
I don't see this part listed in cooling system of parts website (https://www.infinitipartsusa.com/200...stem-s/682.htm) and it's not clear on the FSM. Is the fix to replace the entire hose or just the connector? Is this a relatively easy repair? Independent shop I use has two locations and I trust one location more than the other for complicated stuff (but farther away). Is it safe to refill the radiator and start the engine again to confirm this is the only leak? (engine is cold now) I have only replaced upper radiator hose to date, I will ask to go ahead and replace lower radiator hose. Are there any other hoses I should replace at the same time? I want to prevent any future cooling-related breakdowns if possible. (I wish water pump was easy but looks complicated, probably not necessary at 89K). https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...a5a4811b92.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...0a5ee9b73b.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...81cedbc8db.jpg
Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
(Post 7152227)
Your purge bleeder broke previously and someone replaced it with a plastic barbed coupling, there is supposed to be a cap between your two hose clamps that can be removed to purge air while filling but as you can see it's missing.
I personally like the replacement made by Z1 Motorsports because it's metal, it's SUPER easy to replace the coupling, all you need is a pair of pliars to squeeze the prongs on the clamps so you can slide them down the hose off the coupling. The hardest part is burping the air bubbles back out of the system but if you add coolant very slowly (1 gallon per minute) instead of just dumping it in then it's usually not a problem.
Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
(Post 7152236)
This picture from the FSM is pretty much exactly what it should look like. I'd go take a picture of mine but I'm being lazy on the couch. The "air relief plug" is the bleeder valve, you don't have that piece
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...fde382dbd6.png
Originally Posted by greg_atlanta
(Post 7152442)
Car is back now, $100 with new "heater hose connector" and coolant change. There are two heater hose connectors, one with a bleeder valve and one without. The one that failed on mine is on the passenger side and doesn't have a bleeder valve (near battery). The one with the bleeder valve is on the driver's side. I asked the shop to replace anything else that might break but they're kind stubborn and only replace what needs replacing. Like I asked to have lower radiator hose replaced and they said they usually last for 250K miles.
So I'll have the other heater hose connector replaced the next time I have a coolant change (if it doesn't fail before then). Also, the guy at the shop (who's pretty smart) recommended against buying Infiniti/Nissan going forward since they're getting very cheap with the parts, like getting wiring harnesses from China. He expects a lot of complicated repairs on the newer models as they age.
Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
(Post 7152445)
Time will tell, they still source the capacitors locally in japan and that's the most important component.
I still think your bleed valve is on the wrong side though. EDIT: Wait are you a RHD?
Originally Posted by greg_atlanta
(Post 7152532)
No, but I think your diagram is RHD since it looks like the master cylinder on the right side.
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Just noticed the bleed port is missing on my car and a slight leak back there. Z1 hides and metal fitting on the way.
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Just hit the 100K mark in the Red Shogun....And sure enough the crappy plastic heater hose union/splice (bleeder port was replaced by former owner?) decided to leak.
Luckily, I found it before it broke and dumped my brand new coolant. It took 2 hours and a 13" compound pliers to get those damn spring clamps off and clean out the remains of the plastic union/splice. I'm sure my neighbors learned a few new "phrases" in the process. Hint: pinch off hoses with small vise grips so the plastic bits don't end up in the heater core or the engine block. I couldn't justify the cost of the Z1 bleeder part given it appears the engineers deleted the port from the G37 model altogether. (ie. bleeder port not needed and a reliability issue.) so I found an aluminum billet splice on Amazon for $6, waiting on delivery. Already had a set of worm drive hose clamps on hand. No way was I going to put another OEM plastic bleeder port on the car Or reuse those spring clamps. NOTICE TO DIYers: The heater hose is 3/4 inch I.D. NOT 5/8 inch as someone suggested in another thread. So don't buy a 5/8" hose splice as I did originally.$@$%! :31: I don't know why the FSM doesn't have this little fact listed. :mad: Update: the 2009 G37 shows the bleeder port so I assume DIYers have made the decision to delete it. |
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