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  #1  
Old 05-07-2005, 08:48 PM
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It's not the critic......
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 680
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DIY: UR Crank Pulley Install

Parts List
UR Crank Pulley
Belts
Tools
19mm - 6 sided impact socket
10mm socket
14mm socket
Breaker bar
Cheater (if required)
Pulley Puller (if required)
Jack
Jack Stands
Anti-seize
(3) 2.5" Hose Clamps

Remove engine cover and air intake chamber

Check both belts for tension. This will be helpful at the end when you install the new belts.

Loosen both idler pulleys center bolts. Do not remove!

Jack the drivers’ side of the car up and use the jack stand
__________________
2004 DG Coupe
Z-Tube, K&N, MD 3/8 IsoThermal Spacer, UR Crank Pulley, 10-Wire Grounding, DC SS Headers (ceramic coated), Crawford Cats, Injen Exhaust
KP Window Roll Up & Traction Control & Shift Light Mod, Air Horns, BATS Eyelids, RS Battery Cover, Clearbra, Hardwired Passport, Painted Calipers

Last edited by shooter : 10-20-2005 at 01:05 AM.
  #2  
Old 05-07-2005, 08:50 PM
shooter's Avatar
It's not the critic......
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 680
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Remove the bottom panel by removing a bunch of screws holding this on the car. Here is a pic of the panel upside down.

Loosen the idler pulley adjusting bolts (the really long ones) to allow the belts to loosen and then remove both belts
__________________
2004 DG Coupe
Z-Tube, K&N, MD 3/8 IsoThermal Spacer, UR Crank Pulley, 10-Wire Grounding, DC SS Headers (ceramic coated), Crawford Cats, Injen Exhaust
KP Window Roll Up & Traction Control & Shift Light Mod, Air Horns, BATS Eyelids, RS Battery Cover, Clearbra, Hardwired Passport, Painted Calipers

Last edited by shooter : 10-20-2005 at 01:06 AM.
  #3  
Old 05-07-2005, 08:52 PM
shooter's Avatar
It's not the critic......
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 680
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Lower the car back down almost all the way. The wheels should be on the ground solid. I left the car up just a bit to squeeze under the car easier.

Remove the crank bolt by using a breaker bar (I needed a cheater as my breaker bar was not long enough) set at the 5 o-clock position as described in other threads. This was very easy. I set everything in position, double checked and then turn the key for a split second. I went back and checked the bolt and it was still tight. I had to do it a second time, so I set it all up again, double checked and cranked a little longer (less than a second) and the bolt was free.

I was lucky and the pulley wiggled right off. I didn’t need the puller.

The original pulley weighs about 6 lbs, the UR about 1 lbs (used a bathroom scale)
__________________
2004 DG Coupe
Z-Tube, K&N, MD 3/8 IsoThermal Spacer, UR Crank Pulley, 10-Wire Grounding, DC SS Headers (ceramic coated), Crawford Cats, Injen Exhaust
KP Window Roll Up & Traction Control & Shift Light Mod, Air Horns, BATS Eyelids, RS Battery Cover, Clearbra, Hardwired Passport, Painted Calipers

Last edited by shooter : 10-20-2005 at 01:07 AM.
  #4  
Old 05-07-2005, 08:53 PM
shooter's Avatar
It's not the critic......
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 680
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I was also lucky as the UR pulley wiggled on. I didn’t need a hammer and block of wood. I put a very small amount of anti-seize on the edge of the UR pulley bore to help it slide on. I could tell it bottomed out by moving the pulley away from the engine and “slamming” it back listening for the sound of the impact.

A little anti-seize on the crank bolt and it screwed in very easy.

Next I connect (3) 2.5” hose clamps together and connected one to the pulley through the holes and the other end around the stabilizer bar using a rag to protect the paint.

Then I used the breaker bar and a rubber mallet and whacked the nut until it moved at least 60 degrees.

I washed my hands and then used nail polish remover to clean the pulley and the belts.

Next install the new belts by reversing the procedure for removal.

Start the car and make sure everything is working ok, adjust as required.

Install the bottom panel, engine cover and air chamber back on and you’re done!
__________________
2004 DG Coupe
Z-Tube, K&N, MD 3/8 IsoThermal Spacer, UR Crank Pulley, 10-Wire Grounding, DC SS Headers (ceramic coated), Crawford Cats, Injen Exhaust
KP Window Roll Up & Traction Control & Shift Light Mod, Air Horns, BATS Eyelids, RS Battery Cover, Clearbra, Hardwired Passport, Painted Calipers

Last edited by shooter : 10-20-2005 at 01:07 AM.
  #5  
Old 05-08-2005, 01:21 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Eagan, MN
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Nice job - what did you think of the mod after install? I really like mine. All-in-all I think it is really worth the money.
  #6  
Old 05-08-2005, 01:59 AM
shooter's Avatar
It's not the critic......
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 680
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Definitely more torque..........pushes me in the seat when i step on the gas

I think it is worth the money as well............
__________________
2004 DG Coupe
Z-Tube, K&N, MD 3/8 IsoThermal Spacer, UR Crank Pulley, 10-Wire Grounding, DC SS Headers (ceramic coated), Crawford Cats, Injen Exhaust
KP Window Roll Up & Traction Control & Shift Light Mod, Air Horns, BATS Eyelids, RS Battery Cover, Clearbra, Hardwired Passport, Painted Calipers
  #7  
Old 05-08-2005, 02:27 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: LA, CA
Posts: 750
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I'd be afraid to do it myself. I would rather pay for labor and not mess it up. These things are sensitive...
 



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