FYI people, you can rent a slide hammer at AutoZone or any major auto parts store to alleviate your stress in getting a stuck hub off. Works like a charm........

 

That sucks.

I'm in MA too, and when i did both front wheel bearings on my '06 not too long ago, they both slid out by hand after a few taps from a rubber mallet.

 

Wouldn't work for me. I have to remove the entire knuckle and press the bearing out with a press.

I worked the slide hammer pretty hard with no result.

 

Anyone know if the rears are any easier or more difficult? At 73k I just did both fronts and the hub/bearing assy came out after pb blaster and numerous pretty energetic hits from a 3lb hammer. I was surprised to find out the driver's side one was more shot than the passenger side.

I'm just wondering if I should go ahead and do the rears (again, 73k and in Ohio) in fear of them being really hard to get out when they do eventually go bad? Last thing I want to do is spend money if not needed, but if it's worth it then it's worth it.

One aside, the hardest part of this job for me was getting free the two huge bolts that hold the part the caliper mounts to- came really close to stripping the one. My solution was pb blaster, heat via a map gas torch, and pushing the breaker bar with all I had lol. I also used a c clamp to hold the bar/socket flush on the bolts after I almost stripped the first one.

 

I too was experiencing the loud whirring sound from the front of the car. Finally decided that it was too annoying to listen to that drone on and on while on the highway so I swapped out the bearings in the front. I got the Beck/Arnley hubs from rock auto for about $85/each.

I followed the DIY but got cocky after completing the drivers side. When I pulled the passenger side hub, I neglected to remove the ABS sensor which broke when the hub came out. This was an expensive mistake as the replacement is $130 on rock auto. Kinda pissed since I basically just spent this for the hub replacement.

Total time it took me was 5 hours because i'm an idiot. It was difficult getting around behind the steering knuckle and I had to keep turning the wheel to get it. The DIY helped a lot, definitely wouldn't have tried this without it. Thanks!

Lessons learned;
- Use a slide hammer to pull the rotors out if they're stuck. You can rent one from a parts store like auto zone for free(?).
- REMOVE THE ABS SENSOR AND PROTECT THAT THING
- Use PB blaster. You need it. It needs you.
- I used a lift at the auto hobby shop on base. If you have access to a lift, it really helps to get the leverage needed to break the caliper bolts free.

Good luck people!

 

Just wanted to provide some follow up after having to pull everything apart again to get the ABS sensor to slide all the way into the hole () and put it all back together 2 weeks ago. The new sensor worked and all the dash lights turned off within a few minutes after starting the car. Awesome.

Problem now is, I'm hearing vibration from that wheel which leads me to believe that I might have not tightened down some of the bolts to torque spec (e.g. rear wheel bearing bolts or axle nut). The reason I think it may be the axle nut is that the only way i could hold the rotor still was to wedge an object between the seat and the brake pedal while I turned it as hard as i could. I feel like I didn't tighten it down enough to really secure it on there, especially with the way I drive

Is there a better way to lock the hub so it doesn't turn when you're tightening the bolt? I don't have access to air tools.

 

Major thanks to the OP on this one. I replaced my hub/bearing in an hour this afternoon. Solved my issue!

 

Just did this but have a problem i we turn the rotor with the tire off the boots on the axle get all twisted and during the test drive things didn't sound good. Why would this happen ? Please help ASAP

 

^what?
You twisted off your wheel studs? and the axle?

 

So it would seem what happened is when I tried to pull the old hub off, I separated the axle inside the boot closest to the wheel. And of course no one carries them locally.

 

wow

I didn't even know it was possible.

 

Never underestimate what someone can do with a sledgehammer I guess

 

I know.

That's not a normal type of breakdown. Something unordinary had to be done to cause that.

 

So you tried to pull the hub off without removing the CV axle first???

 

Guys, is there any differences on the Infiniti and Nissan OEM parts? I found out that the front wheel bearings on 350z are interchangeable on G35/G37 RWD. I called Nissan and Infiniti dealers and they both gave me the different quotes.
Nissa: $215 each including the hub
Infiniti: $257 each including the hub

BTW, I saw some people replaced the wheel bearings with aftermarket products like Dura International, Beck, or Timken. What is the quality of those brands compare to OEM?

Thanks,