sooo the motor finally went, threw a rod right through my upper oil pan, and left a hand sized hole 0.o...obviously money is a factor but its more like id want to keep it 5k or less and have 650 at the wheels (will be doing the work on it so it is a matter of parts)


JE pistons
Carillo rods.
new pumps (water, oil)
new timing chain, tensioner and guides.
3 angle valve job
new Valve guides
JWT Cams and valve springs

this is the list of the motor im looking at picking up

anyone can throw in their two cents

im already thinking of acl race race bearings but thats it for my ideas.

 

ARP main/head studs and rod bolts are a must

 

can't believe i let that slip off the list, they're so cheap compared to the other parts i forgot about them haha, thanks /\

 

new gaskets as well, cometic etc

I also suggest replacing the crankshaft seal

 

If your on a budget the Brian Crower Camshafts and valve springs are reasonably priced. Not sure of the mileage on Timing Chain but they should be good up to 250K-300K, replace tensioners.

HR headgasket and block mod is cheaper solution to the $200-$400 for Cosworth, HKS ETC cosmetic headgaskets.

Head assembly or engine overhaul gasket kit whatever works better for your application.

I got an excellent deal from Injected Performance to finish my FP STG 1 SB (Valves,Springs,camshafts,headgaskets,studs).

 

Look at tons of parts on my350z and g35 parts in the engine classifieds. Lots of them are new and selling for 20% off or more. I would also look into options of dropping a ls1 motor if you can source it out for cheap. The cost would be $5k-$8k depending on what motor and if you just buy a block from junkyard and build it up. If you are doing the labor your self than that will help you save a ton of money. If you decide LS route than I personally would stick with ls1 and build it with cams and heads. If you go with iron block then never again do you have to worry about a rod through the block. You can always sell your turbo kit and motor to help with the cost of the swap. just throwing in my 2 cents worth.

 

Im doing the iron block ls route and Im looking at 6k or so in parts alone. I figured I will be in the same ranged as a boosted vq at 500hp on a 383 stroker at a cheaper price than going twins + built motor.

 

Imagine when you add a turbo to that mix......

 

yeah, i was also looking at buying a built block but im not sure if my heads got harmed or not...i know for a fact if i keep my motor and build it, i need a new upper oil pan (see pix) lol But getting a full long block with the parts i mentioned for less than 5k seems worth it to me

 

oh look i see the rod lol... that sucks,.

 

Just use a rubber mallet and hammer the rod back in place, spray some WD40 and patch a piece of duck tape with JB weld on the block and see if that holds...I keed I keed.

Yours is a rev-up motor right so even harder to find parts for it and for sure I would get over sized pistons and higher quality rings to fix the issue with Oil consumption, valve guide seals also played a small part in OC.


Engine packages are customizable to match your goals. Here are two samples of common configurations:

Stage 1 Short Block packages start at $2765 and include CP Pistons, Eagle Rods, ACL Bearings, machining, align hone, balance, blueprint and pro assembly!

Stage 1 Long Block packages start at $3690 and include the Stage1 Short Block, ARP L19 Head Studs, ARP Main Studs, Cometic Head Gaskets, Mill & Clean Heads and assembly.



http://my350z.com/forum/engine/51070...ur-engine.html

http://www.importpartspro.com/shblpa.html


http://my350z.com/forum/engine/47208...eeds-here.html

Low compression but I do not think they are oversized.

http://my350z.com/forum/engine/53043...vq35-03-a.html

High compression

http://my350z.com/forum/engine/49042...-020-over.html

 

Didnt you just go TT

 

nahh...me personally with the car...8 months...before me it was running 350 whp and then i tuned it for 420...but then like any other idiot i decided one more pound wouldnt hurt and then about 2 months later this happened...im not too worried about it because i planned on building a motor on the side anyway but wasnt exactly ready to do it this soon because im going to mexico in two weeks hah...why have a car if not to have fun and learn from it =) /\

 

btw...appreciate the input fellas, you can read and read and read the research but its nice to have real world input too

 

My mod list includes a lot of the parts that I needed when I bent a rod and had similar goals... well, actually... mine were a bit less lofty but I'm an AT and slaved to the transmission (which is now built as well).

700bb jwt twin turbo 350z variant with single intercooler
Cosworth Pistons
Cosworth Head Gasket
Cosworth Main / Rod Bearings
Brian Crower Forged Rods
ARP L19 Head / Main Studs
Apexi AVC-R Boost Controller
Greddy 9 plugs
DW 800cc injectors
DW 300lph fuel pump
Fuel rails / return / regulator
Pathfinder VQ35DE cooling package
Stillen True Dual Catback exhaust
Resonated test pipes
Osiris Uprev Tune
HPX Upgraded MAF
IPT JATCO RE5R05A Built Transmission
Mizu Slim Fans 2x14"
Mizu rad



Again, not a car guy but these are the parts the shop recommended that are now installed.