Audio Upgrade
Audio Upgrade
Doing audio upgrade. Got the avic-z1. Need some recomendation on subs that will fit on 4080 box on both the pasanger and driver side. Also good AMP. Im leaning toward JL 10w6 and decent JL amp. Any better suggestions? And should I replace the bose speakers?
Thanks
Thanks
You may want to read this thread as well as the stickies in this forum.
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-video-electronics/112406-really-dumb-question-about-amps.html
The short answer is that the Bloze mids aren't too spectacular.
Long answer - As an '03 coupe owner, this is the direction I've decided to go:
Retain the Bloze headunit for now until my wife is over the shock of the other stuff I'll be buying...
4 new drivers: 2 in front and 2 in the back. For the front speakers, I'm referring to those at foot-level in the doors and haven't decided what to do about the tweeters near the mirrors. For the back speakers, I am referring to those speakers roughly at knee-level of rear-seated passengers.
Some kind of 4-channel amp to replace the Bloze unit currently located in the hidden trunk space to drive the 4 new drivers.
A 4080 passenger-side 10" sub enclosure.
Another amp (2 channel this time) for the subwoofer. Will see about mounting it in the trunk pocket on the driver side in a vertical fashion.
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-video-electronics/112406-really-dumb-question-about-amps.html
The short answer is that the Bloze mids aren't too spectacular.
Long answer - As an '03 coupe owner, this is the direction I've decided to go:
Retain the Bloze headunit for now until my wife is over the shock of the other stuff I'll be buying...
4 new drivers: 2 in front and 2 in the back. For the front speakers, I'm referring to those at foot-level in the doors and haven't decided what to do about the tweeters near the mirrors. For the back speakers, I am referring to those speakers roughly at knee-level of rear-seated passengers.
Some kind of 4-channel amp to replace the Bloze unit currently located in the hidden trunk space to drive the 4 new drivers.
A 4080 passenger-side 10" sub enclosure.
Another amp (2 channel this time) for the subwoofer. Will see about mounting it in the trunk pocket on the driver side in a vertical fashion.
Just swap everything at once and save urself the regret and $$$ upgrading piecemeal. I've done it, been there, and speak from experience.
If you just wanna swap everything OEM with aftermarket, you'll need to replace your front comps and rear coaxs, along with your HU, sub, amp install. Since you are getting a sub, the 6x9s IMO are extraneous and can be removed to open up venting grilles into the cabin from the trunk. Below are my rough guidelines for several setups.
SQ (Sound Quality)
-New comps in front
-Disconnect or remove rear coaxials. (Eliminates distortion/cancellation and sets a definitive front stage.) Most music, barring recent multichannel recordings done in DVD audio, are recorded and mixed into two channels, right and left much like a concert hall. So SQ setups eliminate rear fills for simpler tuning and increased focus on the front soundstage.
-A two channel amp to power the comps. JL 300/2 is fine. 450/4 or 300/4 if you want to biamp. (Speaker set needs to support the biamping feature via crossovers) Biamping gives you more granular control over the midbass and tweeter by dedicating a channel to each tweeter and midbass.
-Remove 6x9s as they are extraneous.
-4080 box and 10W6v2 is a great combo hooked to a JL 250/1. You can get a 500/1 as others have done as well.
-Install ur Z1, but from speaking with some installers the Z1 SQ is bad compared with other manufacturers. A sound processor/equalizer may be able to alleviate this to give you better tunability and higher voltage preouts.
-Don't forget to sound deaden. One of the most important.
Multimedia Upgrade (Movies, video, music)
-Everything above, except replace the sound processor/equalizer and make sure to get a multimedia processor as your hub to hookup video, speakers, and DTS/Dolby decoding.
-You may want to replace the OEM rear coaxs with higher quality aftermarket since most movies encode audio in multichannel DTS/Dolby formats.
-For 5.1 etc.... You'll need a center speaker. Various members have installed a center speaker, but the best location I've seen is the nav cubby if you don't have nav. If you do, DOH!!!
-If you are going to install additional monitors, you can hook them up to the multimedia hub.
-Sound deaden.
-Didn't mention this before but make sure to use quality cables and connects. The experienced installer will also know how to properly install and route cables to minimize interference/noise.
Cheap Upgrade (Leave OEM comps, coaxs)
-Sound Deaden
-4080/10W6v2/250/1 as above
-Remove 6x9s
-Install new HU (since you already bought?)
-Remove stock amp and use built in amp on HU. (Debatable, but most ppl hate the OEM amp.) If HU has no amp, then use Blose amp.
BTW, get an alarm after your install if you haven't already. Shock, motion sensor, trunk/hood pin, battery backup alarm, two-way remote.
Good Luck
If you just wanna swap everything OEM with aftermarket, you'll need to replace your front comps and rear coaxs, along with your HU, sub, amp install. Since you are getting a sub, the 6x9s IMO are extraneous and can be removed to open up venting grilles into the cabin from the trunk. Below are my rough guidelines for several setups.
SQ (Sound Quality)
-New comps in front
-Disconnect or remove rear coaxials. (Eliminates distortion/cancellation and sets a definitive front stage.) Most music, barring recent multichannel recordings done in DVD audio, are recorded and mixed into two channels, right and left much like a concert hall. So SQ setups eliminate rear fills for simpler tuning and increased focus on the front soundstage.
-A two channel amp to power the comps. JL 300/2 is fine. 450/4 or 300/4 if you want to biamp. (Speaker set needs to support the biamping feature via crossovers) Biamping gives you more granular control over the midbass and tweeter by dedicating a channel to each tweeter and midbass.
-Remove 6x9s as they are extraneous.
-4080 box and 10W6v2 is a great combo hooked to a JL 250/1. You can get a 500/1 as others have done as well.
-Install ur Z1, but from speaking with some installers the Z1 SQ is bad compared with other manufacturers. A sound processor/equalizer may be able to alleviate this to give you better tunability and higher voltage preouts.
-Don't forget to sound deaden. One of the most important.
Multimedia Upgrade (Movies, video, music)
-Everything above, except replace the sound processor/equalizer and make sure to get a multimedia processor as your hub to hookup video, speakers, and DTS/Dolby decoding.
-You may want to replace the OEM rear coaxs with higher quality aftermarket since most movies encode audio in multichannel DTS/Dolby formats.
-For 5.1 etc.... You'll need a center speaker. Various members have installed a center speaker, but the best location I've seen is the nav cubby if you don't have nav. If you do, DOH!!!
-If you are going to install additional monitors, you can hook them up to the multimedia hub.
-Sound deaden.
-Didn't mention this before but make sure to use quality cables and connects. The experienced installer will also know how to properly install and route cables to minimize interference/noise.
Cheap Upgrade (Leave OEM comps, coaxs)
-Sound Deaden
-4080/10W6v2/250/1 as above
-Remove 6x9s
-Install new HU (since you already bought?)
-Remove stock amp and use built in amp on HU. (Debatable, but most ppl hate the OEM amp.) If HU has no amp, then use Blose amp.
BTW, get an alarm after your install if you haven't already. Shock, motion sensor, trunk/hood pin, battery backup alarm, two-way remote.
Good Luck
Last edited by shibal_z; Aug 18, 2006 at 02:57 PM.
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