View Poll Results: What color should i paint the box??
Red
1
2.70%
Neon Blue
5
13.51%
Yellow
0
0%
Orange
1
2.70%
White
1
2.70%
Silver
29
78.38%
Voters: 37. You may not vote on this poll
My Custom System --Fiberglass--
#16
Originally Posted by redlude97
This is false. a sub gets blown when the amp powering it supplies more power than it can thermally dissipate. This usually occurs when a clipped signal is sent to a sub since a clipped signal is almost a square shaped, and will only lead to failure if the power output of the clipped signal results in more power than the sub can dissipate. You could run a 600w rms sub all day with a 100w rms amp at full gain distorted to all hell and still not blow the sub, but if you sent the same distorted signal from a 600w rms amp, it would definately blow
Burning the coils and mechancially damaging the drivers are caused by two different things. Distortion from an under powered amp will ruin a driver. Shorted coils would suggest thermal problems.
I'm not talking about doubling the rms amps if thats what you thought I meant.
Last edited by footmasta; 10-22-2006 at 05:03 PM.
#17
So can you explain to me how underpowering a sub kills it? If you properly set the amp gains so that no clipping occurs, you'll NEVER blow your subs at ANY power level(up to the rated RMS). As long as you stay below the thermal dissipation limit of the voice coils, then the sub will have no problems being underpowered, you will just not get the full potential out of the subs. The problem lies when you only slightly underpower the subs, say at 60% of their rated RMS. If you then set your gains too high so that the signal becomes clipped(distorted), the signal sent to the sub changes and is then roughly equivelent to twice the RMS rating of the amp( has to do with the way a square wave affects power output thats complicated to understand/explain). Thus if you were to double the 60% of the amps RMS rating which would then send 120% of its RMS rating to the sub, exceeding the sub's thermal dissipation ability, then it will overheat and blow. This is due to improper gain setting however, not underpowering the subs. If you were using an amp that only give the sub lets say 40% of its rms rating, then doubling that due to the clipped signal is still only 80% of its thermal dissipation which the sub can handle. It will sound horrible due to the clipped signal, but it will still continue to play. Most installers don't understand the electrical fundamentals behind car audio, and only go based off of what the've experienced. It is true that you will see alot of blown subs due to "underpowering" but if you were to hook up an even larger amp with the same clipped signal, the sub would still blow, but with a bigger amp you can usually turn the gains down to an acceptable level with no clipping so the sub doesn't get blown. The problem is people think they can keep turning the gains up to compensate for having less power which isn't the case.
#19
Originally Posted by redlude97
So can you explain to me how underpowering a sub kills it? If you properly set the amp gains so that no clipping occurs, you'll NEVER blow your subs at ANY power level(up to the rated RMS). As long as you stay below the thermal dissipation limit of the voice coils, then the sub will have no problems being underpowered, you will just not get the full potential out of the subs. The problem lies when you only slightly underpower the subs, say at 60% of their rated RMS. If you then set your gains too high so that the signal becomes clipped(distorted), the signal sent to the sub changes and is then roughly equivelent to twice the RMS rating of the amp( has to do with the way a square wave affects power output thats complicated to understand/explain). Thus if you were to double the 60% of the amps RMS rating which would then send 120% of its RMS rating to the sub, exceeding the sub's thermal dissipation ability, then it will overheat and blow. This is due to improper gain setting however, not underpowering the subs. If you were using an amp that only give the sub lets say 40% of its rms rating, then doubling that due to the clipped signal is still only 80% of its thermal dissipation which the sub can handle. It will sound horrible due to the clipped signal, but it will still continue to play. Most installers don't understand the electrical fundamentals behind car audio, and only go based off of what the've experienced. It is true that you will see alot of blown subs due to "underpowering" but if you were to hook up an even larger amp with the same clipped signal, the sub would still blow, but with a bigger amp you can usually turn the gains down to an acceptable level with no clipping so the sub doesn't get blown. The problem is people think they can keep turning the gains up to compensate for having less power which isn't the case.
I added to my last post right when you post your relpy.
Agreed, what I was implying is I know alot of people that go slim on amps because they are froogle and wonder why they blew there subs.
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#24
Originally Posted by badbread
I have never heard of the subs you are putting in...
Anyone know about them? Are they along the lines of Audiobahn's?
If they are please don't ruin an awesome fiberglass enclosure by putting shi* on Audiobahn's level in there.
Anyone know about them? Are they along the lines of Audiobahn's?
If they are please don't ruin an awesome fiberglass enclosure by putting shi* on Audiobahn's level in there.
#25
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Nah these arent a huge Knows company because they are more of a developing company, and are using allot in custom work. they uses this line on Pimp ride ride one time which is the el camino with the flames. These are very good subs and honestly can say these would outpeform high end like jl i have compared b4
#30
Join Date: Sep 2005
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