i just got thru installing my subs, 2 10w3s on a 500/1 in a sealed box, it sounds pretty good, good lows and clean tight bass, never been a big fan of sealed boxes but went with it anyway, i am now thinking about getting a 8w7 to replace them, but ive never heard any of the w7 subs, has anybody who has heard both models give me some insight on what might sound better. the 8w7 would free up some weight and be a much smaller box, and would get 500 watts to it.


03 BS/Graph 6MT Prem Cp
19" Gunny TE37 275/30 MichPSports
kg/mm springs
camber rods
injen
Alpine/JL/Stinger
double din

 

Hmmm thinkin' I offered an opinion on this already.
Use the 10w7.
No regrets from then forward.

 

8w7, not 10w7, that would be an easy choice, but dont want to spend that much, how about 8w7?


03 BS/Graph 6MT Prem Cp
19" Gunny TE37 275/30 MichPSports
kg/mm springs
camber rods
injen
Alpine/JL/Stinger
double din

 

well compared to what you have now, there is no way to get the same lows out of the 8w7. Its a great sub that gets pretty loud for a 8, but it wont go as low as a pair of 10's or possibly even one ten. If you want a fairly loud, clean sounding sub that may not play very low, then go for the 8w7, but if the lows are important, stick with your current setup or save up for a 10w7..

 

thanks for the info g35audioman, thats what i was afraid of, i know the 8w7s were great subs but I do like some low freqs everynow and then so I might just wait and save up for a 10w7, i just had a good deal on an 8w7 so i was gonna get it, i might anyway and test it out.


03 BS/Graph 6MT Prem Cp
19" Gunny TE37 275/30 MichPSports
kg/mm springs
camber rods
injen
Alpine/JL/Stinger
double din

 

if you want to do a pair of 8's instead that sound as good, if not better than the w7's, then check out the elemental designs E8A subwoofer. www.edesignaudio.com. They subs are about 145 a piece and they will impress the hell out of you if you use a pair.

shaam

 

All I can tell you is I heard 1 8w7 and then 3-10w0's and the 8 still hit harder and just as deep. This was in the same store in JL boxes on the same amp.

 

You cant compare what you hear in a store to how a sub will perform in a car. Thats how people end up buying things and realizing they arent as good as they thought. The only way to really understand a subwoofer's potential is to hear it in a car environment. An 8 will NEVER play as low or loud as 2 or even 3 10's. At least there isnt an 8 out at this point that can. Maybe 2 eights will play as loud...but still not as deep.

 

I guess you have never seen that video of the 2 6.5" drivers that out played a pair of 15"s. Or the numerous Crazy 8 (Kicker sponsored sound off contests) installs where 1 8" driver hit 150+ dB. Most people I know cannot hit that with 15"s. So "never" makes you sound very ignorant and inexperienced especially with your "audioman" screenname.

And its also BS sayin that 8"s cannot play as low. Apparently you have never heard a properly installed 8" driver. But I just think that you are a little confused between output and freq response (playin low as you say).

All things equal, the high quality 8"s can play the same freq range as any other driver. At 140+ dB? Well that would be very install dependent.

 

Watching a video of a pair of 6.5's means absolutely nothing to me. Hearing an install for myself has much more merit. I have heard my fair share of installs. I have worked with numerous drivers, i have even compared 8w7's to other 10, 12, and 15" drivers and i can assure you that it will not have the authority in the lows as a pair of similarly setup 10's will. Remember, we are talking about one 8 vs. multiple 10's. Never is definietly a harsh word since anything is possible with gobs of money on hand, but even then, the possibility of a single 8" driver playing lows with the authority of a larger driver, or a pair, is currently non existent from my firsthand experience with some of the best drivers available today.

Yes, an 8 can get loud, but since the question was will a 8w7 outperform his current setup, i answered it will not since i know from firsthand experience that it will not if he is interested in loud, deep lows.

You need to remember the equipment that is being discussed. Dont present a scenario that this member will never encounter. He is going to be running 500 watts to a 8w7 vs 500 to a pair of 10's. From firsthand experience with both subs, i gave him a truthful, honest answer.

There is no need to make any type of personal attack in reference to my "audioman" title. We can both have our opinions without attacking different points of view.

 

I got the same setup... two 10" JL W3's Version 2 with alphasonik amp... but I have a [censored] load of rattling coming from my trunk.... If I am correct, I believe its coming from the trunk trunk part of the car ( the part where you lift and close the trunk)... Dont know what to do... Dynomat or not? still looking into it... But ya... the subs i got are hitting wayy too hard... but i still love em.. my 2 cents

BaDbOy - "bLaCk BeAuTy"
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...page_id=321439

 

i would suggest dynamatting the car. However, dynamat is not necessarily meant to stop rattling of panels hitting panels. It is a sound deadener so it will keep the sound within the dampened area to some extent. It will make the bass less obtrusive to those hearing your car from the outside, which is good, but it wont stop rattles by itself. If the trunk lid portion is rattling, it could be the panel that is hitting the metal when you have your system on. Therefore i would suggest you try some type of foam in order to reduce the plastic to metal rubbing that is probably occuring. In any case, dynamat or any comparable alternative sound deading material will be very helpful and could improve the overall sound quality of your subs, but if you have panels hitting other panels, then try some type of foam to seperate the two pieces enough to eliminate the rattles.

PS: Dynamat is a hard mat, therefore it won't cushion any of the panels or prevent them from touching and causing rattles, it will only sound deaden and cure any rattles occuring from contact occuring inside the plastic panels (metal hitting metal for example).

 

Yeah you definitely needs to dynamatting your car...

This will be my winter project too =)

 

I know there's always the debate of "this person did this, this 8" sub did this and that, this turbo kit made xxxrwhp" Yea that is all fine and good, but for 'most' people, much like myself, i'm not willing to spend the $$$$ to get where those people in competition are, my car is for daily driving, not racing or sound comps, for those who are in competition, don't settle - go for it all!!!!. I'm in the same boat as you guys - just want a good sounding system, for a decent price, without taking up ALL of your trunk.

I am personally intersted in a single 8 or 10, i'm looking for something that's clean and tight, and that does not rattle the crap out of the car. Dynamat helps - i know it will be different in a hatchback than a trunk - but the dynamat in my supra helps alot, but doesnt' completely eliminate.

 

I would double check to make sur ethe sound is actually comign from the lid itself. I filled my lid with expanding foam and dynomatted over panel. My rattles come from the rear windshield vibrating in the frame. Nothing you can do bout that. My trunk lid is quiet.

Also, unless you live where its above 80 degrees in the winter, or have a heat gun (hair dryer wont cut it), i would not dynomat in thw winter. You need to heat the sheets up fpr them to be pliable enough to contour to the car. Plus I think the heat activates the glue better.

Audioman, didnt mean a personal attack. Such blanket statements like the ones you stated just promotes the ignorance thats rampant among car audio (kinda like people saying that their subs put ot 500 watts).