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HELP Battery draining after new amp and sub install

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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 09:30 PM
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HELP Battery draining after new amp and sub install

Hi guys, im sort of new to this but here it goes i have an 05 g35 with bose sound system and i just got an amp and sub installed from al-eds. first they left my amp running even with the car off so it drained and killed my battery. they fixed the amp so it turned off when the car was off but the car battery still kept dieing after i recharged it at autozone. I bought a new battery and even that one is being drained! any suggestions ... i still have warranty on the car do you think its smart to take it in with the system installed or should i take it out before going so they don't void my warranty? im really lost and could use help thanks open for any ideas and thoughts as to what is draining my battery.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 09:53 PM
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From: Boogie Down
it still sounds like the amp is hooked up improperly..something is draining the battery and since it didn't happen before you had the amp installed, i would still get that checked out. what you can do is disconnect the amp totally and see if the problem still occurs.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 10:30 PM
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yea also get a power capacitor if your amp and sub hit hard.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 10:48 PM
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heres the thing though al-eds have checked the amp and install of it and they said its not the amp. However i dont know if that is the case. they tried to figure out what was draining it like if it was still the amp said im running about 100 milliamps with the car off with the amp d/c and with the amp connected its at 110. So i dont know whats going on. I am taking it to pep boys because i bought the new battery from them maybe they can check the all the fuses and see where the drain is coming from. Any more suggestions or ideas are welcome. thank you
 
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 11:06 PM
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your problem almost has to be 100% the amp. there is probably something wrong with the remote lead for the amp... basically meaning whenever the car is off there is still a signal going to the amp telling the amp that to turn on and take power from the battery to power the sub.... some your installer probably hooked up the remote lead to a power constant wire.... i would take it back to the installer...... if you feel like looking for yourself its typically a blue wire that comes out of the amp
 
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 11:07 PM
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If the battery was fine before the stereo installation and now it gets drained, it seems the audio shop still needs to do some more work to figure out what is still on.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 12:11 AM
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I am going to try and check each fuse hopefully pep boys will do that for me or i guess i can just purchase a 12v light tester and do it myself. I have been looking up so manyy things dealing with 03 bose amp not turning off which seems to be messing everything up. perhaps that is the case, any thoughts?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 01:38 AM
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its not a fuse.... all a fuse does is either allow power to go somewhere or not(there is more to a fuse than that but for this case it serves no purpose for this discussion)...meaning if the fuse is blown it doesnt work

since its an aftermarket amp more than likely the installers didnt use factory wires or at least i hope not because its a more powerful amp that you are using i am assuming therefore no fuse is involved
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 01:58 AM
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well when i mean check the fuses im going to see like which component is draining my power... so if i pull a fuse one by one and then there is a drastic decrease in power being drained then that has to be culprit ... because right now it is either my amp or the bose amp which is connected to the radio ... thats where i think the problem lies. So if i pull the fuses and check how much draw is being taken from my battery i can at least say its either the aftermarket amp or the original bose one.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 07:23 AM
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you wired up your amp wrong, what wire did you tap for your remote line?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 07:59 AM
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It is possible that they rewired the Bose amp so that is is always on.

The first fuse I would pull is the one to the aftermarket amp.

Do you have a capacitor? I onlce had a faulty one with a digital readout and it kept draining my battery.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 11:04 AM
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Thank you all for the help and suggestions, since the car died last morning i drove it around a bit so it can get some charge back and when i was done i pulled the amp fuse after driving it around last morning, then this morning it started like a champ no hesitation after it sat all day and night... btw i do not have a power capacitor...if anyone can tell me how to properly hook up the amp in a G with the intelli key with bose sound that would be great then i can cross referrence that with how Al-eds did it. they so far said they hooked it up with my ignition so even with it on ACC the amp is on.
-->G35RCR...im not sure what wire they tapped into all i know is they said they got the audio line from after the bose amp not sure what that means totally but yea. again if anyone can tell me the proper way to have an amp installed in this specific car it will be greatly appreciated thanks all for your help i should have asked you guys sooner when this whole mess started. thank you again
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 11:51 AM
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The guys that installed your system don't know what they are doing with a Bose equipped G. They probably don't have the schematic and you can help them by taking the following wire color key to them. It has been posted several times before though.

The Bose amp has a turn on wire that can be tapped so that the Bose amp and the new amp will turn on and off with the radio. That should fix your problem. I bet they tapped into a wire that is always on, so your amp is always on.

Also, the audio signal should be tapped BEFORE it goes into the Bose amp because the Bose amp cuts the bass when you turn up the music past about 20, which is not what you want with subs. The Bose amp also adds some funky EQ to the sound to be friendly to the weak Bose speakers.

Since you are rewiring your amp, you might as well add another amp to power the front speakers as well.

Here are the wire colors.

Factory speaker harness wiring colors

Front Right + Gray/Silver
Front Right - Yellow/Silver

Front Left + Green/Silver
Front Left - Red/Silver

Rear Door Right + Brown/Silver
Rear Door Right - Black/Silver

Rear Door Left + Green/Yellow
Rear Door Left - Black/Yellow

Rear Deck Right + Blue/Red
Rear Deck Right - Blue/White

Rear Deck Left + Blue/Yellow
Rear Deck Left - White/Green



Head unit output colors

The (+) are all on the same side of the connector.

Head Output Front Right + Orange/Blue
Head Output Front Right - White/Blue

Head Output Front Left + White
Head Output Front Left - Orange

Head Output Rear Right + Blue
Head Output Rear Right - Pink

Head Output Rear Left + Teal
Head Output Rear Left - Purple

Remote Wire Light Blue/ Silver
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 04:15 PM
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just to clarify i have a g35 sedan 05 bose and intelli key ... but yea im for sure gonna ask al n eds to what you wrote, btw when u say the amp should turn on through the radio how is that possible because they told me it wont work like that and it has to turn on from the start of the ignition so it turns on directly when the ignition key is turned even just to acc. maybe i am just confusing myself at this point, but i will ask them about what they did with the bose amp ill give you guys an update on thursday thanks for the all help so far
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 04:28 PM
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sounds like that al eds place doesnt know what they are doing... with what gilley said is probably the problem... not sure why they would wire the amp to come on when the car starts.... its suppose to be directly linked to the head unit....(headunit off=amp off...headunit on= amp on)
 
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