I bought a Zune 30 refurb a while ago and wanted to use it in the car. Picked up a PAC AAI-NIS2 and installed it and just ran the cable under the console and used it that way for a while. I wasn't really happy w/ the cable hanging out on the driver's side and having 2 cables (audio + power) running across the interior.
I looked around on-line to see if anyone made any after market accessories for the Zune the only thing that is offered is the <a href="http://www.dlo.com/products/tdmicro_zune_Prod.tpl?command=showpage&cart=119886 90746992396" target="_blank">DLO TransDock micro</a> after reading reviews on it from Amazon, I realized I'd would have to make my own.
Idea shamelessly stolen from G Thing https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...ight=ipod+dock

Final Result:



DIY
Disclaimer: I take no responsibility if you ruin anything on your car. Use this DIY at your own risk.

PAC AAI-NIS2:
Follow bradakerz DIY radio removal https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-video-electronics/99632-pac-aai-nis2-ipod-adapter-installation-guide-05-dash-removal.html or one appropriate for your vehicle.

Disassemble the Zune Dock:
No Instructions necessary, just peel the rubber off the bottom and remove the screws. Keep removing screws until you can get out the circuit boards.



Modify the dock to fit in the ashtray insert[/U]:
Unhook the ribbon cable from the board w/ the RGB connectors. Just lift up the black cover and the cable will come right out.
Remove the RGB component connectors. I just nipped away at the plastic until I could cut the connector off.



All connectors removed.



Now cut the circuit board so it will fit in the ashtray insert.



Modify the ashtray insert:
Break out the Dremel and modify the ashtray insert so the circuit board w/ the dock connector will fit. I used the #192 bit to carve out the majority of the material and the #194 bit to do the rest. You need to cut/grind a hole so the IR receiver on the board will fit, grind down both front corners, and cut a groove under the two inner projections. I ended up test fitting the board quite a bit to get the fit I wanted. Careful when test fitting the board, you do not want to break off the IR receiver. I also JB Welded a piece of scrap plastic to the back of the insert as a rest for the back of the board. Drill a hole on the bottom right part of the insert. As you can see in the pics below ABS shatters (hindsight = 20/20 ), so start with a smaller bit and work your way up. You need a hole big enough to fit the USB cable head through.



Cut a piece of the IR plastic and super-glue it to the front lip right where the IR receiver will be.



Modify the ashtray:
You need to drill a hole in the ashtray on the corresponding side as the one you made in the insert. It needs to be on the side of the ashtray otherwise the cables will rub on the housing.



Install everything:
Strip the rubber coating off the 90° 1/8" adapter using a razor blade, and wrap the metal with electrical tape. Hook the two circuit boards back together with the ribbon cable install them in the ashtray insert with the AV connector on the bottom right, route the USB cable through the hole in the right side. Connect the 90° 1/8" adapter to the AV connector, it should poke out the right side of the insert. Pull the USB cable through the hole you drilled in the shifter panel and attach the insert to the ashtray. I needed to wrap the end of the 1/8" to RCA cable I used in electrical tape as well. I didn't want any bare metal touching the barrel of the cigarette lighter.

Sorry about the crappy pic...


Other Parts



Clip the excess wire off the 12V socket and connect it to the power and ground wires (06 shown colors for your model may be different) using the blue tap connectors. Connect the USB cable to the 12V adapter and plug it into the socket. Zip-tie or tape the wires out of the way so the ashtray doesn't bind up.

Fabricate the finisher:
Take the dock insert and cut off all the projections on the bottom. Mix up some epoxy putty and wrap the outside of the piece. The putty is a two part epoxy that you mix together and works like play-doh. You have about 5 minutes before it starts to set up so mix together in small batches. Add putty as needed to get the piece the approximate size of the ashtray insert. You can remove excess material with the sanding drums and the Dremel but it'll take material off pretty fast. Now veg in front of the TV and sand down the putty until you get it smooth. I used 60 - 100 - 320 grit sanding sponges.

Needs more sanding...


Prime, paint and install the finisher. I did two light coats of primer, two of ultra flat black, and two of a matte clear. Attach finisher w/ velcro. Install the shifter panel back into the car making sure that none of the wires interfere with the shifter.



Enjoy your tunes and the laziness of having an IR remote.

Parts List:
PAC AAI-NIS2
1/8" to RCA cable
<a href="http://www.zune.net/en-US/products/z/zunedockpack/details.page/" target="_blank">Zune V2 Dock</a> (the v1 round dock will not work)
USB to 12V Adapter
<a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062272" target="_blank">12 Volt Fused Socket</a>
<a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103788" target="_blank">1/8" Right Angle Adapter</a>

Supplies List:
Epoxy Putty - I used QuickSteel Plastic Repair
Electric Tap Connector x2 (Blue, one comes with the 12 V socket)
Primer, Paint, & Topcoat - Krylon Grey Primer, Ultra Flat Black, and Matte UV Resistant Clear
Super Glue - Locktite pen FTW first time I was able to use a tube of super glue two days in a row w/o the stupid thing clogging up
Velcro
Electrical tape

Tools List:
Dremel w/ flex shaft attachment w/ #192 and #194 carving bits, 60 and 120 grit sanding drums
Cordless power drill w/ assorted bits 5/32" through 3/8"
Utility knife and razorblades
Crimping and wire stripping tool
Needlenose pliers
Nippers
Snips
Small phllips and flat head screwdrivers

 

wow looks complicated. props to you getting this project done. looks good and Im sure you will enjoy this mod a lot!