After grueling research and several iterations of setups I'm planning the following install:

MB Quart QSD216 up front
JL 10W7 sub
JL500/1 to power the sub
JL 300/2 to power the Quarts

I've decided to disconnect the rear coaxials and I'll be removing the 6x9s on the rear deck. I'll be dynamatting pretty much the entire rear as well as the doors. Also getting a custom enclosure built for the 10W7. I'm not a DIYer so I'm getting this done at a reputable shop. Has anyone just hooked up the front components and disconnected the rears?



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I really feel you need the 6x9's in back to make the system sound full. "rear fill"...sounds weird without it to me

 

just a thought shibal, but have you thought about going with the 300/4 instead of the 300/2? The only reason I bring this up is because you can bi-amp those qsd's, 75 watts to each of the tweets and 75 to each of the woofers. I don't use the term 'sick' but I would in this case. There is some debate as to whether this improves SQ but it can't hurt either. In addition, by going with a 4 channel, you can add rear coax's in the future if you wanted. It just adds a little flexibility. Again, just a thought.

<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by al503 on 03/10/04 10:23 AM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

I think al503 has an excellent point. Along with the 300/4 you might consider a set of MB Quart PCE216's for the rear side speakers. I find I like the sound of systems with rear speakers much better. For me the exceptions to this rule are those custom systems that make a huge effort to point and locate the front speakers better, (usually entailing either custom door panels or highly obtrusive kick panels).

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hey racerx,
I actually think that having the 2 quarts up front properly powered will be more than sufficient. I agree with you that for the best SQ, a front soundstage is preferred.

Your point about experimenting with the location of the speakers to get the best results is well taken, but the the Quarts are designed to be played off-axis. If shibal had a set of utopias, then the time and expense would definitely be worth the custom kickpanels. In fact, I would recommend against the utopias to anyone that doesn't plan on finding the best locations for the speakers. Although it would be beneficial to build and install custom pods and kickpanels even with the quarts, they should be just fine in the stock locations.

As I was adjusting the gains on my quarts last weekend, I noticed the sound with just the front channels was great. Of course you will lose out on the spl that the rear speakers provide but it did sound great with just the front speakers.

 

Would it be possible for someone to give detailed instructions on how to install the MB quarts. By this I mean, where you placed amp, how you ran the wires, what wires are needed, what you disconnected from bose amp, etc. etc.

I am going to buy a pair of MB Quart components to replace the front speaks in my G, but don't know what else I need to get. I will obviously be purchasing another amp (or can I use the bose amp to power the MB Quarts?) possible a 300/4. But what else do I need.

The more details the better. thanks.

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Here's the link for an install on the front MB Quarts

MB Quart Install Pics and Tips

When I install the 300/4 and 300/2 (soon!) I'll add pictures of that as well.


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al503

I doubt someone asking equipment advice here is going to consider custom driver placement. I know many SQ setups eliminate the rear fill, but I like it.

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Some people will actually purchase utopias because they are expensive and have a good reputation. I put the info about the custom pods and mounts in so that anyone thinking about on axis speakers such as the utopias may think twice about it before getting them and make a more informed decision.

You were the one that actually brought this subject up. I was just trying to clarify for shibal that it wouldn't hurt but that it wasn't absolutely necessary either to get great results.

<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by al503 on 03/10/04 01:48 PM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

al503, RacerX,

Thanks for the great advice. Originally I was going to power it with a 450/4 with rear midbass kits and then I considered foregoing the rear fills and just bi-amping the fronts, but from other information I've read, it still seems to be a highly debatable topic and one that would make a big difference on my budget for this stereo upgrade. Looking at the QSD216 sustained power handling, I thought the 300/4 would be insufficient and wanted the 450/4. After discussions and price comparisons, I decided to go with the 300/2 for price and adequate power (150W/ch) to the Quarts. I listened to a pair of Z6s in a NSX with just the fronts and a sub, but not MBs in the same configuration. So I'm excited to hear that the MBs up front in the G35c sound great. Most likely I won't be making any changes to my stereo setup once it's done except for a new headunit later.

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I don't think I'm being very clear in this thread and I apologize. Shibal, you can use all four of the channels that a 300/4 has to power a single set of components. The QSD crossovers have a woofer input as well as a tweeter input. Therefore, you would get a total of 150 watts to each side (75 from channel 1 to the left tweeter, 75 from channel 2 to the right woofer, 75 from channel 3 to the right tweeter, and 75 from channel 4 to the right woofer.) This is called bi-amping the components and you will get, arguably, better sound quality as a result.

With the 300/2 you would send 150 to each crossover and then let the crossover split the signal to the woofer and tweeter.

By bi-amping, you are sending a separate and 'clean' signal to the tweeter and a separate and 'clean' signal to the woofer.

 

I was debating between the JL 300/2 and 300/4 also. Would 75 watts to the tweeters blow them? Do you know how much the tweets can handle? I don't have much experience with car audio but I run big concert sound systems and the woofers usually receive 5 times as much power as the tweeters. If I did that, would I just turn down the gain for the tweeter channels? Thanks

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You could also bridge the 300/4, so it essentially becomes a two channel amp. Let the Q crossover split the power between mid range and tweeter. That way, if you decide to add rear speakers, you could remove the bridge connection, and use 2 of the channels for the rear speakers.

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The Q series components can handle up to 190 watts rms. The tweeters will hold up with 75 watts. The crossover allows you to attenuate the tweeter output by -2, -4, -6 dbs so you can tune down their output if necessary.

Bi-amping the tweeters and woofers is the way to go IMHO.

 

Bridging the 300/4 to put out 150x2 might increase the power output also. Even though JL claims that you will only get 150 watts per channel by bridging, you usually get more this way.