I JUST installed a W6 with a JL 500/1 amp to my STOCK bose system. If i turn up the volume to roughly 24, with the scv on low, the car shifts REAL hard, and feels like its going to stall. I bought a cap, thinking that would fix the problem and was told that i have to run a SECOND battery. Even THEN it would still make the lights dim and still draw a lot of power. Is what im being told out of whack? Ive NEVER had this problem before! Does my guy not know what hes talking about? Also, when i turn the car off, the bass in the sub goes REAL loud for 2 seconds gradually, then shuts off. ANyone have any suggestions?

 

I got your PM, but didn't have time to reply right away. Since the car shifts abnormally, I assume you have an automatic transmission, otherwise, you have some issues with a manual.

Do you have the battery that originally came in the car? If so, it's time for a change. Get an Optima yellow top. I think it is the 35R with reversed terminals. That will help, but not cure the problem.

What gauge is the power cable going to the battery. You need 4 gauge or larger.

Add the capacitor. It will also help but it will also not cure the problem. I can tell a difference with and without my capacitor. Some people don't like caps because they are more of a band-aid than a cure, which is true, and it appears you installer is one of them. A cap won't hurt anything.

A second battery may also help, but it will maily allow you to listen to the system longer woth the car turned off.

The only real cure is a high output alternator, but I'm not aware of anyone making them for our cars.

About the weak FM stations, did the installer remove the stock HU? He didn't need to. If he did, maybe he didn't reconnect the antenna.

I have no idea what's going on with the bass after you turn off the car.

 

Yes, i believe its the stock battery. Its been perfect up to the install, but i guess i should switch it out with the one you recommend anyways.

It is 4 gauge wire, but ill double check it today.

I am supposed to use the same gauge wire as whats connected to the amp/sub, correct?

I am hesitant to add a second battery, mainly for what you just said. It will still draw from the main battery, and cost me $250 for install plus battery.

The alternator i have now is stock, but will it end up dying out and need to be replaced? I dont turn the music more than 20 now, for safety of the electrical system.

He said he didnt touch the head unit, but ever since he did the install the FM stations come in VERY weak, with a LOT of static. Could it be that the antenna is being interfered(sp) with?

I dont know about the bass either, other than maybe its the ground. I just dont want to be driving somewhere and not be able to turn my car on because the alternator died, and in turn the battery is dead too. Love the bass and setup, but are our cars not designed to hold the electric?

Thanks for the response, HOPEFULLY someone will have an answer to the similiar problem.

 

I don't understand this statement. 4 gauge wire should run from the battery back to the amp. The ground wire for the amp should be the same size.

Changing the battery will help a lot. They run about $180 though.

 

Sorry, i meant from the cap to the amp...and damn, stupid battery costs!

Do you have a system in your car? And if so, do you have this problem?

 

Brian,

Two things you could try..try to do a different ground or if you have another amp lying around swap it out and see what happens..once again I believe this is an install error and the car. I wanna know wht the outcome is when you get this resolved.

 

Thank you sir, i will try it out! I talked to my uncle tonight(he is a mechanic and does a LOT of electrical). He mentioned to try the yellow top battery as well, maybe even red. However, are these batteries larger in size and will i need to make space in teh battery compartment? I hope not. I am going to try a different ground, because i think thats why the sub is going crazy when i turn off the car. Ill definately keep you updated to try and figure this crap out.

 

Another thing you may want to try is adding the "big 3" upgrade which consists of adding addition grounding connections in the engine bay. Google it or search on the12volt.com

 

Something isn't wired correctly. I'm running a 500/1 and a 300/4 with the stock battery and alternator and no cap. I've never had any kind of problems.

Definitely upgrade your big 3 and get a battery test done if you can't fork out the $$ for the Optima.

 

Yes, I have a system with 1600 watts and a yellow top Optima. The Optima D35R fits without modification. It is a deep cycle battery while the red top is not. Therefore, the yellow top is more appropriate for the system.

 

OK, thanks for the responses fellas. I think its a problem with the wiring too, but my guy says he did it all correct. Good to know im not using him anymore. I am going to try and get the yellow top battery, and then have him fix the ground, and see how it goes from there. Ill keep everyone updated, for future reference. Thanks for your help, makes me feel somewhat better.

 

if your using a high low converter to run your subwoofer off of and your getting feedback when you shut the car off you need to check your ground and connections to the converter, buy a ac/dc tester from sears like 30$ and see what your amp is running with your car at idle and the music down low, anything below 14.3 you need to check your ground and make sure your connections are tight. Ive recently got done fiberglassing my stereo and without a cap my car runs @ 14.5 volts to the stereo and im running two diamond audio d3's on a Pheonix Gold 1500.1 amp turned up half way

 

You didn't actually expect him (a "professional") to admit he wired it incorrectly did you?

 

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haha, oh no...NEVER! Just angry that i wasted my time having him take my call all day and then charge a lot of money for an install. At the price i paid, it should automatically adjust to what my BRAIN tells it!