Firstly, sorry there have been numerous past posts regarding the SWI but nothing like I am seeing..

I finally got around to installing the Z2 this weekend everything is working perfectly EXCEPT my steering wheel controls.

Programming went well, set to mode three, and also programmed button functions. When in operation mode the LED on the SWI lights when I press each of the steering wheel buttons, but the Z2 does not respond.

I checked all connections several times before finally mounting the unit in the opening. (which I only did because I needed to drive my car tomorrow, but I left off some panels so I can easily access it and fix this ASAP) I saw NOTHING wrong; multimeter confirms both lines split from the white SWI wire are at the correct impedance; the yellow wire from the car connector is grounded; the 1/8" connector from the SWI is in the correct plug on the Z2 wiring harness.

I am at a dead end! Is there some kind of setting in the Z2 for using wired remote input? This would seem the only possiblity other than a faulty SWI-PS. <b>Like I said, the SWI blinks as it should when the buttons are pressed, but have no effect on the Z2.</b>

Any ideas?

(PS. I feel I should add, I soldered/heat shrunk all connections and did not splice any wires, even the connection to the 4 wire car connector [VSS, and three steering wheel wires, {red+green interface, yellow ground}]. Here, I soldered .030 diameter leads cut from diodes to the ends of the interface resistor wires. I used heat shrink tubing to color code the red+green to make sure I got the proper impedance in the correct connector port, then pressed them into the white car connector and finally used electrical tape to secure the wires/diode leads into the connector. BTW, this makes a VERY good connection without cutting or tapping into wires on the car. [also verified continuity with multimeter])

 

Well guys, I dug in DEEP and found the issue; I opened up my PAC SWI module only to find the red wire in the OUTPUT cabe was not soldered down to the circuit board... It looks like it was soldered down and just broke lose. (ie, I don't think it was a PAC quality control issue.)

All I can say is I hope this post may help the next guy runs into a strange issue like this.