Does a 2003 g35 coupe also have a stock sub and amp i wasnt aware of this in other models

 

you would probably get better results with a sub in a box.

The Bose systems have 6x9 "subs" in the rear deck and the Bose amp in the trunk. Non-Bose cars have neither.

 

Why would you put that 8" sub in a box when you have a stock location for it?? ...Unless you could somehow mount the sub in the stock location in a box??

Has anyone tried that? The weight of a small box would pull down pressure on the rear deck and would remove all the rattling...hmmmm

 

Question:
Answer:
Personally, I don't want to lose the trunk space, so I'm going to get a 8W1v2 or 8W3v3 for the stock location (or some other 8" infinite baffle). If I were to get a box, I'd get something bigger than an 8". I just wish those corner fitting 4080 boxes weren't so damn expensive. I'm sure they're very high quality, but $365 is ridiculous. The box shouldn't cost twice as much as the components going into it.

I've been thinking about this. Not sure there's enough room. Per JL Audio, a sealed box should be 10.5"x10.5"x10" OD (WHD). I'm going to measure for this and see if it will fit, and how it might be mounted.

Doubtful. The weight of the box will be suspended from the metal shelf, which is not the source of the rattles.

 

Good info Buckeye...

I found a great free-air sub by JL in which I will be getting shortly once I upgrade the "Big 3"

JL free-air sub for $229--> http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136ZR80...-ZR800-CW.html

 

The JL ZR-800 is not a bad choice, but it's not a true subwoofer. The 8W1v2 and 8W3v3 can also be run as a free air, or infinite baffle (IB), setup, and they're true subwoofers. Plus they're less expensive and if you do want to box them up, they require much smaller enclosures than the ZR (about half as big). They're also designed for more power. The ZR-800 is 125W, 8W1v2 is 150W and the 8W3v3 is 250W.

BTW, if you do want the ZR-800 CW, you can find it for significantly less than the $229 Crutchfield has it for. That's basically the retail price.

 

Thanks for the clarification B...the 8W3v3 is perfect for the extra RF 500W amp I have (250W @ 4 Ohm)

Do you think this will sound good? I just have some skepticism towards free-air subs for some reason...

Also, what are your thoughts on upgrading the "Big 3" and getting a beefier alternator?

I have an Alpine 600W amp for my highs and an Alpine 1000W amp for my sub...with the addition of this 8" sub and amp, will I need to upgrade?

I figure my 15" sub draws 600W @ 4 Ohm + 500W @ 3 Ohm for my highs + 250W @ 4 Ohm for the 8" sub =1350W rms...do I count the total amperes this way, or do I add the TOTAL amps POSSIBLE?

 

If you have a 15" sub, why would you bother with an 8"? I'm only going the 8" route because I hate giving up trunk space. And I like to keep all the bolts in my car where they belong. A 150W or 250W 8" sub will be plenty for me.

As to the power question, I'm not the one to ask, but my guess would be you should upgrade your battery, not your alternator.

 

The reason I ask is because our alternators have 110 amps and I am wondering if I am exceeding the alternator's limit? Maybe I should make a new post on figuring out how many amps my system is drawing...

I already have an Optima Yellowtop... ..I want an 8" sub in the stock location simply because it will not take up any more space and it will add more thump in-cabin.

 

will the 8' JL fit in the stock compartment?