I can't figure out why I can't get the speakers to work. The first wiring harness I had was with the RCAs thought that could of been the problem so i got another one without the RCAs but still no luck. Anyone know what the problem could be? I've tried rewiring it and looked at the wires at least 50 times and everything seems to be wired properly but still no sound.

 

You've probably got the wrong wire going to the stock bose amp for remote turn on.
Swap the antenna power wire and remote wire and you should be ok.

Without any further details, that's my educated guess.

 

lol thanks i just pmed you the same question, haha thanks for the quick reply!
Just to make sure i got this right i have to run the speaker wires to the factory amp?

 

Which harness did you use? I had mine installed with metra 70-7551 harness, i then connected the the RCA cables to the head unit and everything worked perfectly.

 

You run the line-outs (RCA) to the factory amp.
If you swapped for the 70-7550, you may want to swap back, otherwise you're more liable to get noise when using the factory amp with the speaker-level inputs that the 70-7550 sends.

 

at first i used the metra 7551 and wasn't sure what the RCA cables where for so i spliced into them with the alpine harness. This was obviously a horrible idea so bought a new harness without the RCA cables with the plain stripped wire endings

 

Yeah, just checked on the alpine. It seems that the Alpine has only left, right and subwoofer pre-outs, instead of FL, FR, RL and RR preouts like the Pioneers I've installed, the Bose amp won't have a signal for all four corners unless you use the speaker-level outputs.

 

Do i have to send it back to the amp, or can i just plug the RCAs in the back of the deck like NYC said? Sorry for the Noob questions this is my 2nd time installing a deck by myself and the first time dealing with this bitch *** bose factory amp.

 

Which head unit do you have?

 

Just went through the manual (page 76), it looks like the 3 preouts refers to front, rear, and sub, so you can use the factory bose amp. I thought the 3 preouts were left, right sub. My mistake.

Yes, plug the RCAs straight into the deck and don't use the speaker-level outputs from the deck. Make sure they're properly insulated so they can't short out.

 

Which speaker-level output should i use? I'm not sure if you'd have the answer for this but i have factory navi and i read when you install an after market head unit you lose the voice guidance. I just seen on page 74 of the manual wire #29 says audio interupt in and it says it goes to the cars phone. Could i wire my navi in there instead?

 

As in the last message, if you can still use the pre-outs, that's preferable. If that's no longer an option, then you can try the speaker-level outputs (FL, FR, RL & RR) 36 through 43 as shown on page 74 of the manual. If you get too much noise through them, get the 70-7551 harness and use the RCA pre-outs.

As for the audio interrupt for maintaining voice from the stock navi, yes and no.
Yes, but you need an Alpine Versatile Link adapter 410C, like this:
http://www.shopaudiovideo.com/alpkca410c.html
Which can respond to the +12v interrupt signal from the factory nav system, and switch to the mono voice wire. (just terminate the factory voice wire with an RCA terminal and shove that into the interrupt-switched input on the 410C).

If you have a versatile link XM, Sirius, HD Radio or other versatile link device, you can get away with the 801B, use a relay if necessary to give the proper signal to the head unit to interrupt whatever versatile link device you have.

 

is there an easier way to still keep the voice guidance?

 

Not while interrupting your music.

The hands-down easiest way would be to put a single headphone attached to the mono output, and drive with that in your ear the whole time. The output would probably be audible to only you, and you wouldn't have much control of the volume, but it would be only a 2-wire splice job, since you wouldn't be wiring an interrupt.

Really, the 410C is very easy, you just putting an RCA terminal on the mono voice output wire and feed the interrupt signal into the 410C. There's no pre-made harness for it, but it's a 3-wire splice job that plugs right into the 410C, which plugs right into the head unit. Edit: The interrupt goes to both the 410C and the HU, but the 410C comes with the cable you need for that.

If you're not interested in interrupting your music, you can also run the voice signal to a second small amp with a small speaker attached, and hide all that behind the dash. It'll take a lot more - power to the amp, since the +12v signal can't handle a load, ground wire, mounting hardware for the hidden speaker & amp... when when the 410C is a mere ~$100, it's by far the simplest and best option.

 

Wow thanks man your a life saver going to go get this done right now, I' ll post some pics after I'm done!