Hello All:

I'm in the process of upgrading my sound system and I had a few questions from the stickies above.

1. Refers to the output wires on the existing bose wiring harness. According to the crutchfield wiring diagram http://crutchfield.custhelp.com/cgi-...p?p_faqid=5638 - it looks like wires 13-16 are for the rear side panels, 17-20 are for the front components, and 2,3,6,7 are for the rear deck 6x9's. Is this correct? If so - is it possible to use a 4 channel amp to power all of these speakers? My thoughts are to have the rear side panels and the 6x9's produce the same frequencies rather than the bose setup where the 6x9's are only producing bass frequencies because in my new setup, I am using a sub. Therefore using wires 2,3,6,7 and 13-16 to 2 of the channels on the amp and 17-20 for the other two channels?

2. I followed the DIY for the sub install as posted above. I'm using a cap and the led read outs are always on. I'm concerned about battery drain and if I installed the cap correctly or not. I attached a quickly made wiring diagram of my current power setup. Can someone review it and tell me if it looks correct? Red indicates power wire, blue indicates ground.

3. I purchased a custom box for the G which manufacturer claims it has 0.8^3ft volume. I have 2 10" MTX subs which according to the MTX website requires 0.75^3 each. Does this mean that for the subs to work optimally they need 1.5^3 (0.75 + 0.75)? If so, can I achieve this by adding polyfill? How much should I be adding? I've read there is no difference between expensive "sound grade" polyfill and craft polyfill that you can purchase at a craft store, walmart, or home depot. Is this true?

Thanks a bunch in advance.

 

1. Are you saying you're going to put frequencies that the deck woofers cannot reproduce into the woofers? That's just asking for reduced sound quality, but yes, if you wire them in parallel so that it's a 2-ohm load, most amps will handle it, but it won't sound good. If you're adding a sub, you're best off just leaving the deck woofers not connected to anything.

2. Can't see any diagram here, but the cap shouldn't be connected to an always-on source.

3. I'm not a box expert, so I'll leave that alone.

 

1. No - I'm purchasing new 6x9's. I am assuming that the 6x9's can reproduce other sounds besides low frequencies. If the speakers I am purchasing are rated for 4 ohms by wiring them in parallel will drop them to 2 ohm? Then you are suggesting that I will just get reduced sound from them? Also I want to confirm that wires 13-16 are for the rear side panels and wires 2,3,6,7 and the ones that power the rear deck 6x9's as the wiring diagram from crutchfield (above) is not very clear.

2. Forgot to attach... just attached the wiring diagram. I made it really quickly and it is definitely not to scale.

3. Anyone else have feedback here?

 

3. on the box... you can get polyfill to simulate a bigger box, but not much bigger like double the size... the subs will still work in that small of a box, but it will have a STEEP rolloff and be really peaky (guestimating) at 65hz or so...

simply, probably not a good idea

 

1. Okay, most 6x9s are full range, or are coaxials with tweeters, so yes, you do want full-range to them. Wiring two 4 ohm speakers in parallel does give you a 2 ohm load. I would still recommend doing a 6-channel amp to give them each their own channel. It'll give you a cleaner sound, and be less work for your amp. But you have the wiring correct. 13-16 for the rear side and 2,3,6,7 for the rear deck. Just wire each side's + & - together in parallel and you'll have a 2ohm load on either channel.