bcae1.com

probably more than you want to learn.

 

$300 isn't much. Not enough for a sub unless you find a cheap one on craigslist that comes with a box and you can manage to get away with an amp as well. That is provided that you want a lil more bass like you mentioned. The speakers are midbass, still won't capture sub bass frequencies.

Sound deadening is good, I coulda gotten you a good deal but I'm no longer running a business. It would have been through Second Skin or from here(http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi). Both their products are great. I personally used Second Skin.

Dynamat is just like Kleenex, a mainstream name brand that most people refer to rather than the type of product (instead of saying tissue). Both these companies sell way better products than Dynamat IMO (and from my experience).

You would use deadener mat for vibration. For my doors this is what I did. 1 layer of damplifier pro (deadener mat) on inner door panel, 1 layer of overkill pro (improves midbass w/foam based product), 1 layer damp pro on door shield cover on one side and a few layers of spectrum on the other (spectrum is liquid deadener). Also used spectrum on the inner door panel. To block road noise i used luxury liner pro (foam based product with vinyl backing and I laid that over the door, before putting on the door panel.

But upgrading your equipment, 300 bucks isn't much, you'd have to go the used route to get something of good quality (price doesn't always mean better quality).

 

It's never overkill to do the entire car. Imagine turning the cabin of a Civic to a high end Lexus, Merc, or BMW. The Infiniti is quite decent as it is, but if you can see that much improvement with a Civic, imagine what it's like with the G.

Most important areas are where there is thin sheet metal. In the trunk, that will be primarily the wheel wells/quarter panels. The doors are another of course, and the floor is a HUGE improvement. The trunk lid is primarily for reducing rattles and vibrations from bass, not road noise. In the trunk, pretty much like I mentioned earlier, any thin sheet metal areas.

 

any advice on what brands and models to look out for??

 

with $300 id put it in the bank and save up for atleast $1000 before doing any work.

 

Best way is to go on an audio forum and search/ask questions.

I'll search around later tonight when i get the chance. basically you would want something that is efficient though, like alot of the oldschool subs. They needed little power to get loud. I can probably have a buddy of mine build you a sub.

 

the thing is.. i live on the east coast in ny

 

He'd be willing to ship. I just gotta see if he is building something that isn't heavy. If it's not too heavy, won't cost much to get shipped.

Or if you want, you can go with the subs I plan to pre-ordered. If you go here you can PM the OP: http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/f...ad.php?t=40954

There aren't too many subs left. At $140 shipped it's a really good deal and seems like it will be a very good driver. I'd say better than the JL W6. Only thing is that it wont get shipped till around August or September so if you can't wait then I guess it won't work for you.

 

What can i use on my doors to reduce rattles and quiet it down a bit? I have a really bad rattle in my door and id like to get rid of it. Also like to reduce road noise.

 

Rattles may be fixed with some felt tape if it's plastic rubbing metal, or by tightening the loose bolts if it's metal vibrating against metal.

Once you've done that, I recommend using CLD tiles from sounddeadenershowdown.com on the outer door skin. Takes a little time to get the door apart to put them on, but it's worth it if you have the time. Just be sure to have the manual ready on how to reconnect the glass rails to the inner door skin handy.

 

agreed. 300 is pointless, be cause you will only want more. i started with only planning on spending about 500, but a year later ive already tripled that. you will always want more. a sub with stock hu and speakers really doesnt sound good, and you wont be satisfied with your system. Spend the money on exhaust or intake or powdercoating your wheels or something. to spend 300 total for sub and amp actually means 200 for sub and amp because youll have to spend another 100+ on box, wires, and adapters.

 

I'm also going to +1 on saying $300 really isn't enough unless you get some really good deals used and you will have to be comfortable installing yourself obviously. Other than sound dampening, the only thing you can really get is aux input for ipod/mp3 player if that is something you would be interested in. Changing speakers or adding a sub can quickly add up especially if you are going to be needing an amp. It really all depends on what you are looking for though. Some people will be happy with adding a decent set of components up front, but others will say its not worth it unless you spend a decent amount on the components and add an amp.

 

Is sound deading really all that great... i mean it's not like it sounds bad or anything...

 

Sound deadening makes your stereo sound closer to what it does when it's parked, when it's moving.

Definitely worth it if you ever listen to your radio while driving.

 

I rarely use the radio, because of Mp3 cd capabilities... I enjoy that a lot more, and I think it sounds great.. But now that I think about it, deadening would be useful for the radio.

Thanks for the info