Boris;

There is no labor overlap in doing the door speakers first, and seeing if you like the results. I did my stereo in stages, and found that the largest improvement was in changing out the door speakers. I used MB Quart components, which are know for high power consumprion, and the Bose amp had adequate power for reasonable (but not loud) volume levels, but adding amps made another leap in performance. I think the Focals are more efficient than the MB Quarts I used as well.

Two things to consider:

---Add Dynamat Extreme to the doors while you have them apart. This will not only help the end result in terms of sound quality, but it will actually lower the power demands on the amp by limiting the road noise the stereo needs to overcome.

---Do the job yourself. I've already posted full install instructions, as have others here. It is really not that tough a job, although a bit time consuming.

If you're really serious about great sound, you'll probably end up doing the amp(s) later, but at least you'll get to experience the effect of just eliminating the crappo speakers. Also, the door components and dynamat work is more of a "modest skill level" job that is very time consuming and will cost a lot, perfect case for a DIY.

Another note.....where would you put a 5 channel amp? Have you seen how big those things are? I think you need to give up on the trunk pass through to use one. I did not want to do this, so I used a JL 300/4 for the components, and a 300/2 for my sub; no loss of the pass through. There are pictures on my profile.

04 G35s 6MT BS Aero Kit/Nav/Prem
Warning: Objects in Mirror Are Losing!

 

Rex Racer is right. I did the doors first (with Focal PolyKev K2) then I added an amp, and then added an EQ and sub. You will notice a ddifference when you change the speakers.

BUT the biggest improvement (not couting the adding of the sub, which added low end which could not have been done otherwise) was the EQ. With an eq you can "tune out" the frequency resonances which annoy you and tailor the sound to your liking.

Do the door spkrs. You'll then do the amp later...it's like a disease...

I did not do any sound deadening.

-------------------------------------------
Craig Ramseur
G35C/5AT/BlkOb/
PhxGold/Focal/AudioControlEQ/Basslink
Z-Tube&PopCharger

 

First of all, you'll want to get components up front. The tweeters are by the A-pillar underneath a plastic grill.

Second, try a search here and on freshalloy.com for 'dynamat.' 6mthavoc had a great diy thread with pictures.

The weakest part in most factory stereo systems (including the G's) are the speakers. Changing them out will be the most cost effective method of improving the system. Just by the regulating both the tweeter and the mid bass, you'll get much better response from both of them.

The stock bose amp will probably have enough power for 90% of all components out there. The exceptions will be some high end CDT's, Quarts, Focals, rainbows, etc. Purchasing high end components and powering them with the stock bose will work but it'll be like buying a porsche and giving it regular unleaded. It'll work but you won't get the full potential.

Going in the mid range with some infinity's, focals, bostons, quarts, etc., should be fine with the stock power available.

So.... I'd recommend upgrading your front components at a minimum. You can also replace the rear coaxials if you want but you'll only notice a marginal gain in performance. Power them off the factory bose and see what you think.

If you want more, then it'll be time to upgrade the amp. The only benefit of an aftermarket amp besides more power is the ability to tailor the specific frequencies going to the speakers. The smaller the range of frequencies a particular speaker has to produce, the better. For instance, for the components and coaxials, you really don't want frequencies much below 80 hz because the 6.5" speakers aren't really designed to reproduce them at the same time they're trying to reproduce 3500 hz. A good amp with a decent crossover will allow you to send everything above a certain frequency to your components/coaxials so that they can better reproduce that smaller range. The fifth channel or a separate mono sub amp will then send everything below that point to your subwoofer that can better handle the lower frequencies.

I hope I've made sense. BTW, $3500 is nuts for 4 speakers,. a sub, and a 5 channel amp. Paying full retail for a top of the line amp like the JL Audio 500/5 is $750.
A good midrange component set: $350
A good midrange coaxial set: $250
A good midrange Sub and enclosure: $500
Wiring/Accessories: $300
Labor: $50-$70 an hour at 8 very comfortable hours: $400-$560.

= ~$2700 at all retail prices.

If you're going to go full bore, get specific information from them about what they plan on putting in. They can get a sub for $50 and put it in a $20 box and call it good.

Ebay or other websites are always an option IMO and the price of the hardware will be roughly ~60% of those above.

500/5: 550
Infinity kappa comps: 180
Infinity kappa coax: 120
JL 10w6v2 or an infinity Kappa Perfect 10vq: 250
Enclosure: 80
Accessories/wiring: 125

Total: ~$1300

 

First, check out this link where I wrote up this install:

Sedan Speaker and Door Dynamat Install

To answer your questions:
<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

Did you choose the MB Quart components or coaxials for the front speakers?

<hr></blockquote> I used MB Quart QM218.61 components in the front doors. I used PCE 216's coaxials in the rear, (although these do have removable tweeters, and a seperate crossover; I left the tweeters mounted.)
<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

I believe the sedan does not have a space for them but the coupe does

<hr></blockquote>There's plenty of room for the MB Quart tweeters in the stock locations. Look at the install thread (link above) and you'll see how it's done.
<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

The stereo shop was planning to install the Amp under the driver's seat.

<hr></blockquote>This is not a good idea. Well....my wife turns on her butt warmers any time it's below 65 degrees, but unless you want the warm butt effect all summer, you need to find a different spot. A high power amp puts out a good amount of heat. Also, the 5 channel amps with decent power are pretty large, so you will also be infringing on the rear passenger's foot space somewhat. I don't know what type of 5 channel amp you're looking at, but as an example, one of the best on the market is a JL 500/5. That amp is 19.7" long, 9.25" wide, and 2.36" high; that's really too big for underseat mounting. From what I've seen, a 5 channel amp that's significantly smaller than this will not put out the power you're looking for, and you may as well stick with the stock 200w+ Blose. Take a look at the amp install I did in my trunk; two 300W JL amps with minimal loss of usable trunk space, (of course the sub box gets removed when I need to pack heavy.)

04 G35s 6MT BS Aero Kit/Nav/Prem
Warning: Objects in Mirror Are Losing!