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Need your input for a new amp and for rear fill

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  #16  
Old 10-04-2010, 08:57 AM
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That qualifies for "about $300". Do it.
 
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Old 10-04-2010, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Wrathernaut
That qualifies for "about $300". Do it.
Cools...Looks like we have a winner!

Thanks of your guys' input!

Now I think I will just replace the rear speakers too and put up with my sub/amp setup until I cant take it anymore.. Hehehe...

Now which ones should I get for the rear fill?
 
  #18  
Old 10-04-2010, 12:12 PM
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335 shipped is nice

bridge the 4 channels to the front and run the stock rears off hu power
 
  #19  
Old 10-04-2010, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by eggyhustles
335 shipped is nice

bridge the 4 channels to the front and run the stock rears off hu power
Wouldn't that be too much power for the Focals?
Or you meant to power the fronts by bridging the firs two channels and then bridge channels 3 & 4 to power the subs?

Thanks.
 
  #20  
Old 10-04-2010, 03:31 PM
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Just because you have the power doesn't mean you have to run it at full volume all the time. The amp will appreciate the headroom, just don't crank the gain up too high.
 
  #21  
Old 10-04-2010, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Wrathernaut
Just because you have the power doesn't mean you have to run it at full volume all the time. The amp will appreciate the headroom, just don't crank the gain up too high.
Hehe..I am kinda getting carried away here

I am so excited to put this together..

Ok. So I will bridge it then..

Thanks!
 
  #22  
Old 10-04-2010, 08:10 PM
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You have to remember that music is dynamic

The speakers will never ever see full power from that amp for over a second.
 
  #23  
Old 10-04-2010, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by eggyhustles
You have to remember that music is dynamic

The speakers will never ever see full power from that amp for over a second.
I was kinda concerned that I will blow my speakers...THis makes me feel better..
 
  #24  
Old 10-04-2010, 09:43 PM
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There's 2 ways to blow a speaker

1. mechanically
2. thermally

clipping cannot damage an amp (thats assuming your amp is decent and not a brand new $69 + free shipping 5 channel that does 100 x 4 + 400 x 1 off ebay ) since they are designed to not cook themselves at that point.

now, what clipping does is "chop" the top and bottom of the wave making it square. some will tell you that "square wave" will damage the speaker, regardless of any other conditions. clipping an amp or speaker, normally, will not damage anything.

so what kills speakers? overpowering them mechanically or calling them to do things they can't for too long a time. overheating the coil beyond its capability(thermally) is the short answer. the "RMS rating" is only a thermal guideline determined by limited testing, after all. if you give a "500w" speaker "500w" it's fine. the problem comes when you overdrive the amp through a non-judicious use of the gain and volume *****. that square wave with the tops missing...the position of the wave moves towards the upper and lower limits making the amplitude larger [the wave appears wider, that is, more "info" the amp has to reproduce]...therefore requiring more from the amp...and letting the magic smoke out of the speaker.

you basically need to overrun the limits of the speaker. drivers can be overpowered, safely, if you're careful. it's pushing the volume up "those last 2 notches on that one song" which might kill the speaker. also, clipping damage may not be instant depending on how hot the voice coil is.

hope that wasn't too long winded here's the long version if you'd like to peruse it http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm the very last line way at the bottom is crucial
 
  #25  
Old 10-05-2010, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by eggyhustles
There's 2 ways to blow a speaker

1. mechanically
2. thermally

clipping cannot damage an amp (thats assuming your amp is decent and not a brand new $69 + free shipping 5 channel that does 100 x 4 + 400 x 1 off ebay ) since they are designed to not cook themselves at that point.

now, what clipping does is "chop" the top and bottom of the wave making it square. some will tell you that "square wave" will damage the speaker, regardless of any other conditions. clipping an amp or speaker, normally, will not damage anything.

so what kills speakers? overpowering them mechanically or calling them to do things they can't for too long a time. overheating the coil beyond its capability(thermally) is the short answer. the "RMS rating" is only a thermal guideline determined by limited testing, after all. if you give a "500w" speaker "500w" it's fine. the problem comes when you overdrive the amp through a non-judicious use of the gain and volume *****. that square wave with the tops missing...the position of the wave moves towards the upper and lower limits making the amplitude larger [the wave appears wider, that is, more "info" the amp has to reproduce]...therefore requiring more from the amp...and letting the magic smoke out of the speaker.

you basically need to overrun the limits of the speaker. drivers can be overpowered, safely, if you're careful. it's pushing the volume up "those last 2 notches on that one song" which might kill the speaker. also, clipping damage may not be instant depending on how hot the voice coil is.

hope that wasn't too long winded here's the long version if you'd like to peruse it http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm the very last line way at the bottom is crucial
Thanks. That was a good read...

Correct me if I am wrong. So according to what I read from the link, it is actually "good" to have an amp that is rated above the rated power the speakers can handle. Since the amp can deliver more power to the speakers(even at the speakers max), if I some how turn the volume too high I will still get a pure sine wave coming from the amp which is "clean" and not clipped.

And in my case, bridging channels 1&2 of the Soundstream amp to run the Focal components will yield a RMS power of 460 RMS (230 RMS to ea. speakers). So even if I push my speakers to its 150 RMS max the Soundstream amp will not even break a sweat delivering 150 RMS therefore not sending clipped sine wave or even worst, square waves.

Since I dont blast out my music with my windows down, I am safe with having an amp well capable of delivering a lot of power than my speakers can handle..I listen to my music with my windows up..
 
  #26  
Old 10-05-2010, 10:52 AM
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Yes, it's good to have more RMS in your amp than your speakers can handle. Your amp doesn't have to work at hard, so it stays cooler, and since it stays cooler there's less distortion as well.

...Just so long as you're not cranking the gains so high that you're overpowering the speakers.
 
  #27  
Old 10-05-2010, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Wrathernaut
Yes, it's good to have more RMS in your amp than your speakers can handle. Your amp doesn't have to work at hard, so it stays cooler, and since it stays cooler there's less distortion as well.

...Just so long as you're not cranking the gains so high that you're overpowering the speakers.
Cool..

HOw about the amp kit?
I see the ones that are brand named and the ones that are not. Do you guys have some preference or I should just get a generic one?
 
  #28  
Old 10-05-2010, 11:30 AM
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I used a Tsunami branded one, the wires are very flexible, particularly considering how thick they are. I think the major difference between different brand kits are the quality of the terminals/connectors. Wire's pretty much wire.

Obviously avoid anything with bad reviews, but copper is copper.
 
  #29  
Old 10-05-2010, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Wrathernaut
I used a Tsunami branded one, the wires are very flexible, particularly considering how thick they are. I think the major difference between different brand kits are the quality of the terminals/connectors. Wire's pretty much wire.

Obviously avoid anything with bad reviews, but copper is copper.
What do you think about this: http://cgi.ebay.com/0-Gauge-3600W-Dual-Car-Amplifier-Amp-Install-Kit-AK01-/290475312372?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a1ad84f4
 
  #30  
Old 10-05-2010, 02:13 PM
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looks more like 4 gauge to me..look how thick the coat is


Check for Tsunami, Stinger, Kicker, Phoenix Gold, Knukonceptz(best budget kits imo), and Rockford
 


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