I recently installed a new system and have ran into a few snags. Maybe you guys could give some advice.

Here's the set up:
-Stock head unit
-Focal 6.5 k2p w/ tweets
-Focal 6X9 polyglass
-ArcAudio 4150
-IDMax12 in custom fiberglass box
-Phoenix Gold Titanium 800.1
-AudioControl DXS (31 band digital eq) with DDC
-AudioControl LC6 (LOC)

Issues: Even with the LOC set to low voltage input, the system would only kick on at volume 11+ and would randomly shut down if volume went below 13. We fixed that by wiring the turn on lead to the key turning (accessory). Unfortunately, this leaves the system on as long as the car is on. I get a static "white noise" from the speakers at low volume levels, and even a RPM whine through 'em. To top it all off, I've lost most of my radio reception for some reason.

=( Any advice would be GREATLY appriciated!

 

Another quick question: The LOC is installed AFTER the bose amp. Can you install the LOC before the amp? I was under the impression that the factory HU sent the sound to the factory amp via data cable not speaker level output. If thats not the case, the I could eliminate a lot of my system "hiss" and other background noise by wiring before the bose amp.

I would also like the system to turn on by signal sensing or remote turn on lead, but we had problems getting that to work right. Any ideas?

 

The LOC should be before the Bose amp. Unless you are keeping the Bose amp as ballast required by your last finish in the Japan Touring Car series, I'd give it the heave.You might even try not using an LOC at all; with the JL amps I used I did not need one. The output of the stock head unit is quite high.

ON THE OTHER HAND....I think you're going to see other problems with the amount of wattage you're trying to run off the stock electrical system.Lots of people here have posted about problems with using the the amount of power you're talking about without upgrading the electrical system. Let's see.....320 Watts for the 4 channel plus 800 watts for the sub amp, that's 1120 watts. Divided by 12 volts, that could be a 93 amp load if you crank it all the way up! Some of the things you may need, in order of importance:

1] Nice thick wire running to the amps, with a circuit breaker/fuse right near the battery. I think you need even thicker than 4 Ga., but certainly no less than 4. Maybe a 4Ga for each amp.

2] Upgraded grounding wires off the battery, and upgraded wiring from the alternator to the battery.

3] Upgraded battery. (Like an Ultima Yellow top.) Maybe even a second battery.

4] Upgraded, higher output, alternator.

5] Capacitors, (probably a lot less expensive than an alternator or battery solution, but less likely to solve your problems.

From what I've seen here, (and experienced personnaly) people with about 600 watts total power seem to not have to worry about ANY of the above items (except #1, you ALWAYS need adequate wire to run any amps). Much above that level people have complained about dimming lights, flickering lights, amp clipping or damage, and even rough shifting from their AT's.

04 G35s 6MT BS Aero Kit/Nav/Prem
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