diy ST800 Installation with diagram
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diy ST800 Installation with diagram
I made this and post on the z forum and thought i post it here too. i tried to post it in the diy section but it wont let me. the rules said to post in tech forum and mod will move to diy after it has been reviewed and approved.
Hey guys,
I promised to write a diy installation like a really long time now. I thought it might confused people so i gave up. Now, i realized i can make it really clear with a diagram. Thanks to the help of Sean @ auto-innovatio and the guy on ebay store Jeffersontruong. This is just a DIY guide. i am not responsible for any damage caused by installing this system.
Remember to take our the AIRBAG fuses before taping into BCM or you can disconnect the battery like i did. Also, please remove your aftermarket alarm before installing st800. it might cause interferences.
The OEM harness wire color is based on the 2006. please check your vehicle wiring color.
I am going to go over the installation section by section
CN1 Harness will be divided into 3 sections
CN1 A. CN1 B and CN1 C
CN1 A
Remove the plastic piece that cover the ignition column and the plastic piece on the bottom of the steering wheel.
1) Unplug the OEM plug from the back of the ignition column.
2) Take out two CN1 harness wire from st800 unit
3) Take the harness that will be plug into the back of the ignition column and cut 3 wires withWHITE, GREEN and YELLOW color. WHITE and GREEN wires are STARTER wires which need to be connect for our car to start. YELLOW is ACC wire
THE OTHER WIRES BLACK IS B1 POWER LINE, RED IS IGNITION 2, BLUE IS IGNITION 1.
4) At the end near ignition column connect the WHITE and GREEN wires together.
5) Use electrical tape to cover the cut parts
CN1 B
1) Use electrical tape to cover the 3 cut wire. These wire will not be used
2) Cut the RED wire from the end that have the plastic piece. Use tape and tape it up. This is ignition 2 wire but our cars do not have a second ignition wire.
3) Cut the WHITE wire and tape it into GREEN wire. These two wires again are Starter wires
CN1 C
1) Cut the YELLOW wire that plug into ST800 unit.
2) Connect the end that directly plug into the ST800 unit to 5 PIN RELAY pin # 85
3) Connect the end with the plastic piece to 5 PIN RELAY pin # 30
4) Connect the plastic piece end of the YELLOW wire to the plastic piece of the GREEN wire
5) Cut the ORANGE wire from ST800 unit plug and tap it into the RED wire from the ST800 plug.
6) Use your own electric wire to connect 5 PIN RELAY pin # 87 to the RED wire from the ST800 unit.
7) Connect the RED wire with plastic end to the BLACK wire with plastic end
8) Connect the GREEN wire straight fromt he ST800 unit to the BLUE wire plastic end.
9) Connect the BLUE wire with plastic end from st800 unit to the YELLOW wire with plastic piece
10) Cut the WHITE wire from st800 unit and tape it up. We will not be using this wire.
DO NOT MATCH THE COLORS AND PLUG THEM IN. YOU HAVE TO CHECK THE WIRES.
While you are at the ignition column. Please look under the ignition column. you should see a white connected with 2 wires both RED/BLACK. Please Cut the wire on top. If you are not sure which of the two wire to cut please insert the key in the ignition and use a volt meter to measure which wire have power when key is insert.
The end that is connected to the ignition will be connected to BLACK/GREEN wire from CN2 and the other end that is connected to a brown connector that is connected to your vehicle will be connected to GREEN wire from CN11
THE WIRES FOR CN2 PART 2 HAVE WRONG COLOR. THEY ACTUALLY RED/BLACK NOT RED. I AM TALKING ABOUT THE WIRES THAT CAME FROM THE WHITE CONNECTOR BELOW THE IGNITION COLUMN. AS YOU CAN SEE THE RED WIRE THAT IS CUT AND CONNECTED TO GREEN CN 11 AND BLACK/GREEN CN2, IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE RED/BLACK. SEE BELOW FOR DETAIL
CN2
1) connect to BLACK Ground wires to your vehicle body. You need to find a place with good metal connection.
2) Connect the WHITE wire to your siren WHITE wire.
3) Our cars do not use the GRAY wire so cut it off or tape it up.
4) BLACK/GREEN wire is connected to the key sense wire that was cut in previous step. Connect it to the end that is not connected to the ignition column.
5) YELLOW and GREEN need to be wire to the door switch at driver door panel. You need to remove the plug at your driver door and door panel in order to wire these wire.
6) Tap the GREEN wire to the BLACK/RED wire at the driver door switch
7) Connect the YELLOW wire to the BLUE wire at the driver door switch
8) Tap the BROWN wire to the PINK wire at BCM pin 30 ( It is a negative polarity so u need to set the jumper to negative. Please remember to disconnect the power to the st800 unit before remove and insert both jumper. you must do it at the same time.)
9) Tap the two PINK signal wires to the GREEN/WHITE and PURPLE/WHITE at BCM pin 45 and 46. it doesnt matter which pink wire is connect to white wire.
CN3 is not used
CN4 Shock sensor.
I used a ziptie to attach my SHOCK SENSOR to the steering column. You need to adjust the sensitivity of the sensor.
CN5 Push START Button.
Place it any where you like
CN6 Bypass module
You can hide it any where you like.
You Need To Open The Bypass Module And Place The End Of Your Key With Transponder Inside
The ANTENNA needed to be wrapped tightly on the ignition colum so it can transmit the signal to the immobolizer receiver.
CN7 Not Used
CN8 Smart Antenna
you need to find a place highest in your car and place it there. It need to be away from the RF Antenna
Hey guys,
I promised to write a diy installation like a really long time now. I thought it might confused people so i gave up. Now, i realized i can make it really clear with a diagram. Thanks to the help of Sean @ auto-innovatio and the guy on ebay store Jeffersontruong. This is just a DIY guide. i am not responsible for any damage caused by installing this system.
Remember to take our the AIRBAG fuses before taping into BCM or you can disconnect the battery like i did. Also, please remove your aftermarket alarm before installing st800. it might cause interferences.
The OEM harness wire color is based on the 2006. please check your vehicle wiring color.
I am going to go over the installation section by section
CN1 Harness will be divided into 3 sections
CN1 A. CN1 B and CN1 C
CN1 A
Remove the plastic piece that cover the ignition column and the plastic piece on the bottom of the steering wheel.
1) Unplug the OEM plug from the back of the ignition column.
2) Take out two CN1 harness wire from st800 unit
3) Take the harness that will be plug into the back of the ignition column and cut 3 wires withWHITE, GREEN and YELLOW color. WHITE and GREEN wires are STARTER wires which need to be connect for our car to start. YELLOW is ACC wire
THE OTHER WIRES BLACK IS B1 POWER LINE, RED IS IGNITION 2, BLUE IS IGNITION 1.
4) At the end near ignition column connect the WHITE and GREEN wires together.
5) Use electrical tape to cover the cut parts
CN1 B
1) Use electrical tape to cover the 3 cut wire. These wire will not be used
2) Cut the RED wire from the end that have the plastic piece. Use tape and tape it up. This is ignition 2 wire but our cars do not have a second ignition wire.
3) Cut the WHITE wire and tape it into GREEN wire. These two wires again are Starter wires
CN1 C
1) Cut the YELLOW wire that plug into ST800 unit.
2) Connect the end that directly plug into the ST800 unit to 5 PIN RELAY pin # 85
3) Connect the end with the plastic piece to 5 PIN RELAY pin # 30
4) Connect the plastic piece end of the YELLOW wire to the plastic piece of the GREEN wire
5) Cut the ORANGE wire from ST800 unit plug and tap it into the RED wire from the ST800 plug.
6) Use your own electric wire to connect 5 PIN RELAY pin # 87 to the RED wire from the ST800 unit.
7) Connect the RED wire with plastic end to the BLACK wire with plastic end
8) Connect the GREEN wire straight fromt he ST800 unit to the BLUE wire plastic end.
9) Connect the BLUE wire with plastic end from st800 unit to the YELLOW wire with plastic piece
10) Cut the WHITE wire from st800 unit and tape it up. We will not be using this wire.
DO NOT MATCH THE COLORS AND PLUG THEM IN. YOU HAVE TO CHECK THE WIRES.
While you are at the ignition column. Please look under the ignition column. you should see a white connected with 2 wires both RED/BLACK. Please Cut the wire on top. If you are not sure which of the two wire to cut please insert the key in the ignition and use a volt meter to measure which wire have power when key is insert.
The end that is connected to the ignition will be connected to BLACK/GREEN wire from CN2 and the other end that is connected to a brown connector that is connected to your vehicle will be connected to GREEN wire from CN11
THE WIRES FOR CN2 PART 2 HAVE WRONG COLOR. THEY ACTUALLY RED/BLACK NOT RED. I AM TALKING ABOUT THE WIRES THAT CAME FROM THE WHITE CONNECTOR BELOW THE IGNITION COLUMN. AS YOU CAN SEE THE RED WIRE THAT IS CUT AND CONNECTED TO GREEN CN 11 AND BLACK/GREEN CN2, IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE RED/BLACK. SEE BELOW FOR DETAIL
CN2
1) connect to BLACK Ground wires to your vehicle body. You need to find a place with good metal connection.
2) Connect the WHITE wire to your siren WHITE wire.
3) Our cars do not use the GRAY wire so cut it off or tape it up.
4) BLACK/GREEN wire is connected to the key sense wire that was cut in previous step. Connect it to the end that is not connected to the ignition column.
5) YELLOW and GREEN need to be wire to the door switch at driver door panel. You need to remove the plug at your driver door and door panel in order to wire these wire.
6) Tap the GREEN wire to the BLACK/RED wire at the driver door switch
7) Connect the YELLOW wire to the BLUE wire at the driver door switch
8) Tap the BROWN wire to the PINK wire at BCM pin 30 ( It is a negative polarity so u need to set the jumper to negative. Please remember to disconnect the power to the st800 unit before remove and insert both jumper. you must do it at the same time.)
9) Tap the two PINK signal wires to the GREEN/WHITE and PURPLE/WHITE at BCM pin 45 and 46. it doesnt matter which pink wire is connect to white wire.
CN3 is not used
CN4 Shock sensor.
I used a ziptie to attach my SHOCK SENSOR to the steering column. You need to adjust the sensitivity of the sensor.
CN5 Push START Button.
Place it any where you like
CN6 Bypass module
You can hide it any where you like.
You Need To Open The Bypass Module And Place The End Of Your Key With Transponder Inside
The ANTENNA needed to be wrapped tightly on the ignition colum so it can transmit the signal to the immobolizer receiver.
CN7 Not Used
CN8 Smart Antenna
you need to find a place highest in your car and place it there. It need to be away from the RF Antenna
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CN 9 RF Antenna
I placed my on the passenger side near next to the windshield
CN 10 Digital Key pad
i placed my on the passender windshield
CN11 (the Fun Part)
--- PURPLE wire is not used because our cars are not diesel
--- ORANGE wire is positive parking detection wire ( I didnt used this wire)
----RED wire is negative parking detection wire ( I connected it o my ebrake pin because i have an automatic)
NOTES: IF YOU HAVE A MANUAL IT IS SAFER TO TAP INTO ECU PIN WHERE PARKING/NEUTRAL WIRE IS. PLEASE USE A VOLT METER TO CHECK IF THE IT IS POSITIVE OR NEGATIVE TO DETERMINE IF YOU WILL USE RED OR ORANGE WIRE. ONLY ONE WIRE IS USED. CUT THE OTHER UNUSED WIRE AND TAPE IT UP
---SkyBLue L termial wire. This wire can be connected to either Tachometer wire at the speed cluster or it can be tap into ignition coil or fuel injectors wires at ECU. Please look at the vehicle wiring diagram for your year and wire color codes.
---GREY Door detection wire. Please use a three way connector to split the GREY wire into 2 wires for driver and passenger doors. Please get 2 diodes, 3 amp. The diode end with stripes need to face the BCM. Please tap these to pin 12 and 62 at BCM. they are pink and blue wires but i forgot which wire is at which pin. You can look it up when you actually do the installation.
---BROWN Brake detection wire. This wire need to be tap into PINK/BLUE wire at the Brake sensor located right on top of the brake pedal.
---GREEN key sense wire. On the bottom of the ignition cylinder, there is a white plug with two wires (RED/BLACK). Cut the wire on the TOP wire and connect the GREEN wire from CN11 to the cut end wire that connect tot the ignition cylinder. The other end that connected to the plug that connect to your vehicle will be connected to the key sense wire output (Black/Green on CN2 connector)
---BLUE ACC wire. This wrie need to be connected to the ACC wire which is the YELLOW wire from CN1 A
---YELLOW Starter wire. This wire need to be connected to the GREEN wire from CN1 A. Remember that Green and White wire from CN1 A are connected together already.
---GREY/BLACK AUX wire. This wire needed to be tap into Yellow wrie from CN2 for window roll up or down i forgot but it either up or down.
----Yellow/BLack Aux wire. This needed to be tap into Green wire from CN2 or window roll up or down i forgot but it either up or down. Again i forgot which one is which but this is the correct set up.
Now that u have finish wiring your st800 it is time to set up your st800 unit.
You need to open the lid of ST800 unit and look inside.
The NOISE level **** needed to be turn clockwise all the way so that st800 unit can detect our cars is already started. it will stop the starter from running and prevent damages to starter.
VR **** is not adjusted because i didnt used this
CAP2 s/w: Trunk output polarity. You need to insert both jumper at the same time. Our cars has negative polarity for the trunk so you need to move bot jumpers to the negative side. I disconnected the CN1 before removing both jumper and insert the jumpers. I reconnect the CN1 connector after i had insert both jumpers.
CAP1 S/W: I moved the jumper to the NOISE because i connected my to the tachometer wire @ speed cluster. you can select whatever you like depend on where you tap your SKy Blue wire from CN11 to.
DIP1 to DIP3 is self explanatory.
Alright...
Before you can test to see if your car work you need to register the remote.
Hit 1 1 1 1 and ENT this is the factory pass. You need to change this later. Please read the manual.
Hit B A C ENT
Press the lock sign on your remote controller once and let it go. Hit the lock sign again and hold it while pressing ENT on your digital key pad. Let go. YOur remote controller is register.
Our cars have double pulse locking mechanism. you need to set it.
Hit 1 1 1 1 ENT the factory password
Hit C D A ENT
Hit B ENT
Hit ENT again to exit
.
............
Finally, it is time to cut the PURPLE/WHITE wire under the ST800 CAP FOR AUTOMATIC CARS ONLY. do not cut the wire if you have a manual.
Oh. do whatever that is needed. i am not finished yet. i am writing this and somehow when i post it doesnt post and it did not save. i had to re-write it twice therefore i am writing it like this in case it got mess up again.
THIS STEP IS FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSION. IT IS NOT THAT MUCH DIFFERENT. ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS GETTING A SECOND 5 PIN RELAY AND CONNECT THE ORANGE OR RED WIRES FROM CN11 TO PARK/NEUTRAL PIN @ ECU
here is my other diagram for manual transmission. it look confusing because i put everything together whereas the obove diagrams are broken down.
Thanks to 350z_REDLINE for confirming manual transmission set up and diodes and helping me with this.
Please note the ORANGE and RED parking detection in this diagram is actually wrong. You have to determined which polarity it is to use the wire.
alright. finally i am finished.
anyone interested in buying my used ST800 system? I upgraded to easycar E7-b already. I only used it for like a month. Let me get the picture of the used system tomorrow. Good night guys. Have fun installing...
p.s please look in your manual for window roll up and down set up. there are many other options please look at them. If you guys have time while installing this system, please take some pictures and add to this thread to make it more rich.
if you remove your seats for easy access and now your air bag light is flashing, all you have to do is follow the air bag reset procedure. You dont have to remove the cn1 harness and place the OEM back to reset your air bag. All you have to is press the start button to turn on your car but not start the car.
I placed my on the passenger side near next to the windshield
CN 10 Digital Key pad
i placed my on the passender windshield
CN11 (the Fun Part)
--- PURPLE wire is not used because our cars are not diesel
--- ORANGE wire is positive parking detection wire ( I didnt used this wire)
----RED wire is negative parking detection wire ( I connected it o my ebrake pin because i have an automatic)
NOTES: IF YOU HAVE A MANUAL IT IS SAFER TO TAP INTO ECU PIN WHERE PARKING/NEUTRAL WIRE IS. PLEASE USE A VOLT METER TO CHECK IF THE IT IS POSITIVE OR NEGATIVE TO DETERMINE IF YOU WILL USE RED OR ORANGE WIRE. ONLY ONE WIRE IS USED. CUT THE OTHER UNUSED WIRE AND TAPE IT UP
---SkyBLue L termial wire. This wire can be connected to either Tachometer wire at the speed cluster or it can be tap into ignition coil or fuel injectors wires at ECU. Please look at the vehicle wiring diagram for your year and wire color codes.
---GREY Door detection wire. Please use a three way connector to split the GREY wire into 2 wires for driver and passenger doors. Please get 2 diodes, 3 amp. The diode end with stripes need to face the BCM. Please tap these to pin 12 and 62 at BCM. they are pink and blue wires but i forgot which wire is at which pin. You can look it up when you actually do the installation.
---BROWN Brake detection wire. This wire need to be tap into PINK/BLUE wire at the Brake sensor located right on top of the brake pedal.
---GREEN key sense wire. On the bottom of the ignition cylinder, there is a white plug with two wires (RED/BLACK). Cut the wire on the TOP wire and connect the GREEN wire from CN11 to the cut end wire that connect tot the ignition cylinder. The other end that connected to the plug that connect to your vehicle will be connected to the key sense wire output (Black/Green on CN2 connector)
---BLUE ACC wire. This wrie need to be connected to the ACC wire which is the YELLOW wire from CN1 A
---YELLOW Starter wire. This wire need to be connected to the GREEN wire from CN1 A. Remember that Green and White wire from CN1 A are connected together already.
---GREY/BLACK AUX wire. This wire needed to be tap into Yellow wrie from CN2 for window roll up or down i forgot but it either up or down.
----Yellow/BLack Aux wire. This needed to be tap into Green wire from CN2 or window roll up or down i forgot but it either up or down. Again i forgot which one is which but this is the correct set up.
Now that u have finish wiring your st800 it is time to set up your st800 unit.
You need to open the lid of ST800 unit and look inside.
The NOISE level **** needed to be turn clockwise all the way so that st800 unit can detect our cars is already started. it will stop the starter from running and prevent damages to starter.
VR **** is not adjusted because i didnt used this
CAP2 s/w: Trunk output polarity. You need to insert both jumper at the same time. Our cars has negative polarity for the trunk so you need to move bot jumpers to the negative side. I disconnected the CN1 before removing both jumper and insert the jumpers. I reconnect the CN1 connector after i had insert both jumpers.
CAP1 S/W: I moved the jumper to the NOISE because i connected my to the tachometer wire @ speed cluster. you can select whatever you like depend on where you tap your SKy Blue wire from CN11 to.
DIP1 to DIP3 is self explanatory.
Alright...
Before you can test to see if your car work you need to register the remote.
Hit 1 1 1 1 and ENT this is the factory pass. You need to change this later. Please read the manual.
Hit B A C ENT
Press the lock sign on your remote controller once and let it go. Hit the lock sign again and hold it while pressing ENT on your digital key pad. Let go. YOur remote controller is register.
Our cars have double pulse locking mechanism. you need to set it.
Hit 1 1 1 1 ENT the factory password
Hit C D A ENT
Hit B ENT
Hit ENT again to exit
.
............
Finally, it is time to cut the PURPLE/WHITE wire under the ST800 CAP FOR AUTOMATIC CARS ONLY. do not cut the wire if you have a manual.
THIS STEP IS FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSION. IT IS NOT THAT MUCH DIFFERENT. ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS GETTING A SECOND 5 PIN RELAY AND CONNECT THE ORANGE OR RED WIRES FROM CN11 TO PARK/NEUTRAL PIN @ ECU
here is my other diagram for manual transmission. it look confusing because i put everything together whereas the obove diagrams are broken down.
Thanks to 350z_REDLINE for confirming manual transmission set up and diodes and helping me with this.
Please note the ORANGE and RED parking detection in this diagram is actually wrong. You have to determined which polarity it is to use the wire.
alright. finally i am finished.
anyone interested in buying my used ST800 system? I upgraded to easycar E7-b already. I only used it for like a month. Let me get the picture of the used system tomorrow. Good night guys. Have fun installing...
p.s please look in your manual for window roll up and down set up. there are many other options please look at them. If you guys have time while installing this system, please take some pictures and add to this thread to make it more rich.
if you remove your seats for easy access and now your air bag light is flashing, all you have to do is follow the air bag reset procedure. You dont have to remove the cn1 harness and place the OEM back to reset your air bag. All you have to is press the start button to turn on your car but not start the car.
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Registered User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 89
Likes: 6
I like the LED two ways pager of EASYCAR E7-B. The remote controller actually vibrate! it felt like a cell phone in my wallet. Plus it comes with 2 remote controllers. St800 only comes with 1 controller. I was thinking of getting the st960 but it is a little expensive. They are the same quality so why not getting Easycar. Plus i got a deal from the ebay seller. To be honest, I only paid 350 for the EASYCAR E7-B. the seller will give me credit 100 dollars back after i submit a diagram and a video showing how the system work. He wants customer's video to show on his site and diagram to help diy customers. I did the dw-tech st800 and submitted hoping to get 100 dollars credit but he said he already got lots of ST800 videos and diagram. I failed to email him about it. But hey 100 dollars off for easycar e7-b is enough for me.
That's a great deal. Do you have to keep the key in the ignition with the easycar e7-b?
I like the LED two ways pager of EASYCAR E7-B. The remote controller actually vibrate! it felt like a cell phone in my wallet. Plus it comes with 2 remote controllers. St800 only comes with 1 controller. I was thinking of getting the st960 but it is a little expensive. They are the same quality so why not getting Easycar. Plus i got a deal from the ebay seller. To be honest, I only paid 350 for the EASYCAR E7-B. the seller will give me credit 100 dollars back after i submit a diagram and a video showing how the system work. He wants customer's video to show on his site and diagram to help diy customers. I did the dw-tech st800 and submitted hoping to get 100 dollars credit but he said he already got lots of ST800 videos and diagram. I failed to email him about it. But hey 100 dollars off for easycar e7-b is enough for me.
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every system out there requires you to place the cut key without the transponder in the ignition to unlock column lock mechanism of your car. it is safe because there is a by pass module that you can hide your transponder in and hide it anywhere in your car. the system itself is the alarm with starter kill function. no one will be able to start your car without the signal from your remote. i am doing the installation diagram for the easycar e7-b right now but damn it takes lots of time. st800 took me about 3 hours total.
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somebody on the Z emailed me and asked lock mode code p1610 and p1614. they had an after market alarm which already tap into BCM. installing this st800 or any other system require you to tap into the BCM too. You must remove the other market or short may occur and your BCM will not communicate with your immobilizer receiver properly and you will end up in lock mode. The dont take it to the dealer yet if you follow the procedure to recycle the key and cant recycle it.
all you have to do is go to the BCM and remove the after market alarms ( your previously installed and this new st800 alarm). then check for shortage from the wires that were tap into. fix the shortage by replace to wire or by whatever means. recycle the key again and it should start the car and get it out of lock mode.
dealer will charge at least 100 dollars for reseting!!!! plus the towing fee!! that will be atleast 150 dollars you can save....
some dealer requires to take your after market systems out which will cost you atleast 2 hours of labor! and you know nissan/infiniti labor cost is not cheap!! like 100 dollars/ hour!!!
all you have to do is go to the BCM and remove the after market alarms ( your previously installed and this new st800 alarm). then check for shortage from the wires that were tap into. fix the shortage by replace to wire or by whatever means. recycle the key again and it should start the car and get it out of lock mode.
dealer will charge at least 100 dollars for reseting!!!! plus the towing fee!! that will be atleast 150 dollars you can save....
some dealer requires to take your after market systems out which will cost you atleast 2 hours of labor! and you know nissan/infiniti labor cost is not cheap!! like 100 dollars/ hour!!!
RF antenna for ST800
Hey folks,
My ST800 RF_Antenna does not have a very big range...at least I THINK that's the problem, but I might be wrong.
The issue I'm having is that the range of the proximity sensing feature seems to be very limited or very slow to respond.
Here's the deal...when I press a button on the remote fob, the antenna picks up the signal JUST FINE from a good distance away....HOWEVER, I'm thinking that the very same antenna is supposed to sense when I approach the car….and automatically unlock.
This proximity-sensing feature does work…but it’s kind of unpredictable, in that it sometimes the car unlocks as I approach (as it should), but other times, it responds slowly or not at all unless I hold the remote up next to the window, where the RF_Antenna is installed.
It's as if the system has gone to sleep...but not really, because it never fails completely...it's only slow to respond...and probably has more to do with a limited range, specific to the proximity sensing feature, rather than any kind of sleep state.
I have checked the battery in the remote and changed it out with a new one…but that didn’t help. I also tried re-orienting the RF_Antenna assembly on the inside of the windshield (pointing right to left...pointing left to right, pointing up, pointing down)—but that didn’t seem to help either.
Thinking that it might be damaged, internally, I popped it open to have a look.
Very interesting...
I noticed that there's a screw on the PCB...and I wondered if adjusting the screw, one way or the other might increase the antenna's proximity sensitivity...I also noticed that the plastic coating on the wand part of the assembly is cracked.
See below for pictures of both...
1.
Any idea what effect turning this screw will have? Increase range, decrease range, change frequency, something else?
2.
I'm thinking that the crack in the antenna sheath is not likely to impact the proximity sensing capability. The antenna has no trouble picking up the signal when I actually press buttons on the remote....it's only the proximity function that does seem to have a big enough range.
My ST800 RF_Antenna does not have a very big range...at least I THINK that's the problem, but I might be wrong.
The issue I'm having is that the range of the proximity sensing feature seems to be very limited or very slow to respond.
Here's the deal...when I press a button on the remote fob, the antenna picks up the signal JUST FINE from a good distance away....HOWEVER, I'm thinking that the very same antenna is supposed to sense when I approach the car….and automatically unlock.
This proximity-sensing feature does work…but it’s kind of unpredictable, in that it sometimes the car unlocks as I approach (as it should), but other times, it responds slowly or not at all unless I hold the remote up next to the window, where the RF_Antenna is installed.
It's as if the system has gone to sleep...but not really, because it never fails completely...it's only slow to respond...and probably has more to do with a limited range, specific to the proximity sensing feature, rather than any kind of sleep state.
I have checked the battery in the remote and changed it out with a new one…but that didn’t help. I also tried re-orienting the RF_Antenna assembly on the inside of the windshield (pointing right to left...pointing left to right, pointing up, pointing down)—but that didn’t seem to help either.
Thinking that it might be damaged, internally, I popped it open to have a look.
Very interesting...
I noticed that there's a screw on the PCB...and I wondered if adjusting the screw, one way or the other might increase the antenna's proximity sensitivity...I also noticed that the plastic coating on the wand part of the assembly is cracked.
See below for pictures of both...
1.
Any idea what effect turning this screw will have? Increase range, decrease range, change frequency, something else?
2.
I'm thinking that the crack in the antenna sheath is not likely to impact the proximity sensing capability. The antenna has no trouble picking up the signal when I actually press buttons on the remote....it's only the proximity function that does seem to have a big enough range.
Last edited by rruotolo; Jun 23, 2012 at 04:54 PM. Reason: typo
OK...so Now I'm in real trouble...
Please chime in with your suggestions if you happen to have any experience similar to mine...
As described in my previous posting to this thread, I disconnected and examined the RF Antenna assembly (see above).
When I plugged it back in to the harness, I noticed that my remote fob no longer worked. So, I attempted to re-register the fob by following the process to do so...
Which is:
type-in passcode and press ENT (doors unlock)
type-in B,A,C and press ENT (happy jingle)
press Lock icon on fob, release
press Lock icon on fob and hold while pressing ENT (sad two-tones, instead of happy confirmation jingle)
No luck...
Try again...
No luck...
Tried at least ten times, carefully following directions....but no luck.
It's as if the antenna simply cannot sense the remote anymore, at all.
I can unlock the car with the keypad on the window, but the car won't start.
HELP, please!
And the white lite is staying on solid on the push-button start button...which is likely to drain the battery by morning.
Please chime in with your suggestions if you happen to have any experience similar to mine...
As described in my previous posting to this thread, I disconnected and examined the RF Antenna assembly (see above).
When I plugged it back in to the harness, I noticed that my remote fob no longer worked. So, I attempted to re-register the fob by following the process to do so...
Which is:
type-in passcode and press ENT (doors unlock)
type-in B,A,C and press ENT (happy jingle)
press Lock icon on fob, release
press Lock icon on fob and hold while pressing ENT (sad two-tones, instead of happy confirmation jingle)
No luck...
Try again...
No luck...
Tried at least ten times, carefully following directions....but no luck.
It's as if the antenna simply cannot sense the remote anymore, at all.
I can unlock the car with the keypad on the window, but the car won't start.
HELP, please!
And the white lite is staying on solid on the push-button start button...which is likely to drain the battery by morning.
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