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Am I missing these 3 fuses and rev lamp relay ?! Pics inside
05 6mt rev up sedan , vdc slip and rev lights on before I disconnected my yaw sensor . Opened up the relay fuse box and it seems like I’m missing the big rev lamp relay , the 20a hicas Fuse , the 10a atcon fuse, the 15a smart fuse. Also I noticed where the fuse connects the metal connections on the one side are missing. Not sure if it’s something model specific or the previous owner removed these . Thanks in advance
Look up "fuse, fusible link, and relay box" in the FSM section PG. Or harness E18 / E21 which is the harness and plug on that fuse box.
This missing relay is for the backup lights on the 5AT equipped sedans.
The only thing "missing" from that picture is fuse slot 32 which is the main fuse for the TCM on 5AT equipped vehicles.
Not sure what diagram you're looking in that says it's a HICAS relay, that should only be for the RAS equipped 2006-2007 coupes. I think you have the wrong FSM.
Look up "fuse, fusible link, and relay box" in the FSM section PG. Or harness E18 / E21 which is the harness and plug on that fuse box.
This missing relay is for the backup lights on the 5AT equipped sedans.
The only thing "missing" from that picture is fuse slot 32 which is the main fuse for the TCM on 5AT equipped vehicles.
Not sure what diagram you're looking in that says it's a HICAS relay, that should only be for the RAS equipped 2006-2007 coupes. I think you have the wrong FSM.
gotcha yea it’s a 2005 MT rev up sedan, I got the car and the vdc slip and rev lights have always been on before even removing the yaw sensor . The previous owner said he got it that way also . I was basing the hicas assumption of the top of the box , I’ll attach a picture . Also sorry for the newb question what is FSM ? I’ve been chasing the gremlins on this car for a long time almost to the point I’m ready to swap something non vq in and go stand alone . Thanks for the help it’s truly appreciated
FSM = Factory Service Manual, you can find it hosted by Nicoclub. They don't require any account and have it available to the public for 100% free, no BS, no strings, no nothing, just the entire service manual straight from Nissan.
As for the VDC/SLIP lights, first I would check the brake fluid level because it's the most common reason for them to be on. There is a fluid level switch to detect when it's low.
Basically what happens is as the brake pads wear the caliper piston extends further and further which takes fluid volume from the reservoir, eventually the low fluid switch trips and turns on those lights on the dash which disables the VDC system. Top off the brake fluid reservoir and the light goes away.
However it can also be caused by other issues, if the reservoir fluid level is fine then plug in a scanner and see what code is thrown, sometimes an ABS wheel sensors goes out and causes lights.
FSM = Factory Service Manual, you can find it hosted by Nicoclub. They don't require any account and have it available to the public for 100% free, no BS, no strings, no nothing, just the entire service manual straight from Nissan.
As for the VDC/SLIP lights, first I would check the brake fluid level because it's the most common reason for them to be on. There is a fluid level switch to detect when it's low.
Basically what happens is as the brake pads wear the caliper piston extends further and further which takes fluid volume from the reservoir, eventually the low fluid switch trips and turns on those lights on the dash which disables the VDC system. Top off the brake fluid reservoir and the light goes away.
However it can also be caused by other issues, if the reservoir fluid level is fine then plug in a scanner and see what code is thrown, sometimes an ABS wheel sensors goes out and causes lights.
Ok will do thanks once again , I come from a long time ziliva forum member and other bmw forums also so it’s glad to see members here truly helping . I’ll check the fluid definitely . Does this mean also that even low break pads couldn’t give them same issue ? I’ve run the codes and nothing pops up . As you replied in the other engine thread I believe a compression and leak test is definitely needed . I bought this car on 2 hours of sleep across 48hrs due to a crazy work schedule and am reaping the rewards of doing a deal in zombie mode haha . I was planing on fixing some stuff building it to drift and selling but the work and and parts I’ve invested at this point are leading me to keep it . It has high milage so I’m currently shopping around for a swap or shop to rebuild as I believe a full rebuild is right beyond my scope of abilities to do on my own. Thanks once again for the help and welcoming response to the forum . 🙏🏼
