I'm proud of how it looks. I doubt any professional shop could have done better (with my budget).

A majority of the cost went to buying the tools I needed (router and router bits, circular saw, cordless drill, dremel, clamps, etc). This was all created from scratch.

I'll post final pics when I'm done.

Still deciding on want I want to put on the sides.

EDIT: Yes, I am considering putting 2 10" monitors in the sides, mounted with swivel arms, giving me the option to pull the monitors out and allow them to "float" above the amplifiers. Otherwise they would sit flush.

Also locating a PS2 above the sub box and using that to "power" a widescreen monitor to be mounted on the trunk lid.

All these are just ideas running in my head. Don't know if I'll have the money or know how to get it done.

I do plan on painting the sub box and amp rack lambo yellow and wrapping everything else in a black vinyl/leather and mounting a neon/led tube underneath the area by the subs.

ANY ADVICE from professionals would be greatly appreciated.

 

Looks Great! What kind of subs?

Some ideas for the sides of the trunk...

- LCD screens (always look cool wherever they are)
- Infiniti logos of some kind, maybe lighted or mirrored, etc
- storage? who said it cant be functional...
- NOS...if its good enough for Paul Walker....
- More speakers
- cooler...tailgating at its finest
- ?


Judging by the rest of your car, im sure itll be hottt. Nice job

 

dang man, you're going all out on the show car status scene. lookin good so far vinh

 

You should fiberglass everything and paint it lambo yellow. It came out really NICE!!!!how much does all that weigh?

 

Agree glass it and paint! Ill be starting on mine soon. Looks like Ill be seeing you at some shows this year!

 

I would consider fiberglass not only for the look but for weight conservation. Put an equal amount of time into front speaker placement and installation as well. Good luck and post pics when you are finished.

 

creating fiberglass enclosures may reduce weight, but it's much more difficult to work with and much more time consuming (or so I assume).

i plan on laying some polyester boaters resin on the MDF to harden it up a bit and to give me a good surface to apply the bondo (i'm assuming you can't just lay bondo on the MDF, sand it, and paint?). If I can, let me know and I'll skip the resin part.

Once that is done, I'll smooth out the bondo as best I can, spray some primer on it and take it to the body shop for some automotive paint.

 

Get some evercoat bondo. Then get some evercoat metal glaze. Ok Im going to give you some tips. You have to work fast though. Get some 40 grit and a large block. Lay your bondo. Ok this is where the secret comes in. You want to sand with 40 grit on the block when the bondo is still tacky. Yes I know, odd BUT just do it. The bondo will sand like your shaving cheese. The key is to knock it down before it hardens up. Once you get it flat knock it down with 80 grit. Now go mix up your glaze. Spread it on as good as you can NICE AND EVEN! This you want to dry all the way. Now knock it down with 80 grit. Dont finish it just knock it down. Once you've knocked it down hit it with 180, finish it up with 180 and your done!

 

so there's no need to mess with the fiberglass resin? or use the evercoat bondo after I've applied the resin?

evercoat bondo...did an online search, is there a specific name for this bondo?

there's a West Marine store in my neighborhood. they sell

evercoat formula 27 filler
evercoat polyester glazing putty

do you have a specific name for the bondo?

i'll do some more searches for the metal glaze, but where might I fnid that locally?

thank you

vinh

 

2 of the hottest G's in one thread, Maize and Blue ( U of M ) hehe

 

Thats a nice start. My thoughts on this projects are:
Fiberglassing: Its been done too many times. In a car as classy as the G, you want to try and retain the classyness (sp) of the car by not going too "boy racer-ish" with the wild fiberglassing and paint. Not only does it more than likely render the trunk useless, it's also a bitch to maintain. You have to constantly worry about paint chips, fingerprints, etc.

Do something with the edges so that the overall shape of it isnt too angular. Right now you have right angles and that just makes it too harsh. Break it up a bit by routing or glassing down the edges and making more rounded corners. The box rings look awesome. good job on that. As for the amp area, consider doing a shadow box design that gives the trunk depth vs just your standard run of the mill flush mounted amp design. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. :thumbsup

 

How can the bass enter the cabin? You have totally closed off the trunk from the cabin. From what I see in your pics, the bass will be trapped in the chamber you have built. I would just hate to see you spend all of you time and $ just to hear 30% of the output. I have seen this done sooo many times.

 

i've been told the same thing. i'm going to experiment with the sound the way it is, then I'm gonna try cutting a slot (location of PS2) to allow sound through (simulating a single reflex bandpass). there's still a lot of experimenting to do.

but yeah, as you can see from a lot of other people's box, unless they remove there rear deck speakers, they basically have the trunk sealed off as much as I do.

may I ask if you remove the rear deck speakers for your set-up or is there another way to let the bass into the cabin?

vinh

 

The bass from my box has a chance to play throught the foam padding of the rear seat and the 6x9 holes in my rear deck (I do not have Bose). With the seat in the up position it does loose about 15% of the bass. Your box is a diff. story. The bass will only fire into a seperate solid MDF chamber, it does not have a chance to make it through the foam seat or rear deck. If you can now port the box into the rear deck then it will be much better. I dont think a port the size of a PS2 is enough. 3 times that size is what I would suggest. I have built very similar boxes in diff. cars. Only IMO.

4080