Oh man,

I just put everything back together thinking I had run every wire imaginable. Now it seems that once you remove the Bose AMP, the blue/white remote turn on signal no longer functions.

Can anyone confirm this is true? My crappy old voltmeter says there's no juice on that wire any more.

(Yes I should have tested it, but I needed to put the car back together - fast!).

Before I take panels off again, can someone explain what the issue might be.

Thanks

(I managed to get an Infinity 7541a amp fit in the same location as the stock amp - no easy feat considering its 3 times the size. Will post pics if I can actually get it wired properly).

 

I just replaced my entire system over the weekend, and I used the very light blue almost like a sky blue wire as the remote turn on wire. I used the tech service manual to figure this out, and my system powers off and on just fine. I went with two Audiobanh HC4125Q amps and have two Infinity Perfect 12.1D in the trunk. Needless to say, I no long have a trunk or spare tire.

 

thx for the response - I will check it out. I was using this same lead (I think blue/silver) to power up the carPC before and it worked fine then.

I still have my spare and my trunk though I went with a basslink rather than a more expensive custom enclosure.

 

I too had a problem with the remote power wire after disconnecting the stock amp.....so I just ran a 12v wire from the back of my Panasonic HU to my distributor block in the trunk on the passenger side. I got tired and pissed off enough trying to find that wire.....

doc

 

I KNOW I have the right wire. For some reason, it only goes up to about 5 mV now instead of 11.5V as it used to.

Two possibilities:

A. Removing the stock amp alters the signal. This is not likely as it is supposed to be an INPUT from the HU to the AMP. And others (above) report that it works without the AMP.

B. I have the AOEM-NIS2 LOC connected to the back of my HU. It provides a REMOTE AMP ON connector. I wasn't going to use it cause I thought I had that issue taken care of. Guess I'll have to run another wire for it.

Anyone else that had trouble with remote on signal using either new HU or AOEM-NIS2 LOC?

 

I double checked the service manual and it is the sky blue wire. If that is the wire that you are checking, i don't understand why the voltage would have dropped. Seems very strange to me. I placed my LOC where the bose amp used to be, which made for a semi-easy install. Now I need to get a fiberglass set up for my trunk.



Infinity Perfect 6.1 up front, Infinity 693.5 in rear, Polk DB650 for rear sides, two Infinity Perfect 12.1D all powered by two Audiobahn A4125HCQ amps with two 1 farrad Audiobanh ACAP7A capacitors. All together took me about 13 hrs of sweating and swearing to put in.

 

Are you guys who are having the problems using aftermarket head units? If so, that's where I'd start looking. I had my amp disconnected when I was installing the XBox and the lead had a 12 volt signal. I'd double check the signal wire is receiving 12 volts behind the dash.

 

I'm pretty certain the AOEM-NIS2 messed it up. The voltage swing is very weak on the sky blue wire. However, the AOEM-NIS2 does provide it's own REMOTE wire, so I just did a run for that...

 

rcdash, are you using the stock HU? If so, what wire color coming out of the HU is your remote connected to?

 

Yes stock HU, with AOEM-NIS2 right off the back, with 4 rca's going back to AMP (with a nice ground loop whine that is volume independent but changes with engine speed).

I am not sure what the wire color is behind the HU. At the harness in the trunk it is a light blue color, but also appears to have some silver on it.

I got the remote thing licked by running another wire - am going to try a ground loop isolator tonight to get rid of the while on the rca (with rca disconnected, there is no noise - and no music either).

 

As far as the noise, check your grounds for your amp. Make sure you have it on bare metal, if there is paint, you need to scuff the paint off. Also use atleast a 10ga. wire for the ground and run it as short as possible and make sure that it is secure with as much as possible coming in contact with the metal. Also, if you ran your RCAs down to the trunk the same side as your power cable, I recommend running the power down one side and the RCAs down the other side. This may sound like a headache, but it should solve the problem, as my experience with GL Isolators is that most of them do not work.

 

I don't think it's a ground loop. I think my AOEM-NIS2 is shot. The front RCA outputs are weak even at max gain - I don't get it. Same speakers, same amp connection, just swapping between front and rear output on the AOEM-NIS2 and the output falls dramatically regardless of the gain dials (for the front channels).

Well the GL Isolator did not work - in fact it made the problem worse. I ran my power line on driver side. All signal wires on passenger side. I even ran a 6 gauge ground wire on the passenger side to see if that might help (grounding the chassis in front of car with a bolt in the back) - it didn't. I could try to squeeze it between the HU and the chassis so the HU chassis is grounded to the same point as all the rest of the audio equipment.

When I disconnect the RCA from the AOEM-NIS2 near the head unit, there is no noise. So I don't think the RCA runs are the culprit. I can try to output from my laptop onto to those same RCA's and see if I get noise - I doubt I will. BTW, I tried different ground connections, using STAR topology, using 4 ga wire - nothing made a bit of difference. I even ran a 6 ga from my ground distribution block to the front and secured it to a bolt under the passenger foot well - still no change.

I have already sent e-mails off to autotoys and Pac-audio. Will let you know...

 

well hooking up a laptop in the front to the same RCAs going to the back sounds awesome - crystal clear. of course that doesn't help rule out (or rule in) a ground loop between the HU and trunk AMP as I'm running the laptop on batteries, I suppose.

 

Well the folks at auto toys think it IS a ground loop.

Could a ground loop prevent the "remote on" signal from working?

Could it mess up front channel operation of the AOEM-NIS2 like that?

Seems unlikely... but anyone with insights?

 

So you're still having problems with the install and powering up the amp? I had a similar problem the other day not having my amp power up. I picked up a multimeter and found that it was only getting 4V due to a bad ground contact. I decided to drill a new hole and I guess it made better contact to bare metal and that fixed the problem. With the engine off, the multimeter read 12.5V so I was good to go. The light blue wire with silver is the correct remote signal. I also didn't use a LOC. I just tapped into the stock harness wires by using wire taps and rca jacks and connected a JL amp. It ended up working like a charm so far.