Will this work??
It will "work".
The CK3000 and 3100 work pretty well. But the harness is un-neccesarily set up for Euro cars with DIN radio harnesses, and connecting it to a non-DIN-radio-harness is a big PITA.
What phone do you have and what carrier?
I have a diagram of how to install one using an external speaker. I don't trust the Parrot speaker-interrupt relays with an amplified system - more power than I suspect those relay contacts can handle. The speaker that plugs into the parrot is like $20 and I have them in stock.
Does the G35 have a mute wire or will you need to interrupt the remote turn on lead to the amp with a relay?
I have the 3100 and I really like using it, but a lot of that is having the LCD screen, frankly. Can't that be hidden behind a panel in the g35?
The CK3000 and 3100 work pretty well. But the harness is un-neccesarily set up for Euro cars with DIN radio harnesses, and connecting it to a non-DIN-radio-harness is a big PITA.
What phone do you have and what carrier?
I have a diagram of how to install one using an external speaker. I don't trust the Parrot speaker-interrupt relays with an amplified system - more power than I suspect those relay contacts can handle. The speaker that plugs into the parrot is like $20 and I have them in stock.
Does the G35 have a mute wire or will you need to interrupt the remote turn on lead to the amp with a relay?
I have the 3100 and I really like using it, but a lot of that is having the LCD screen, frankly. Can't that be hidden behind a panel in the g35?
If you have the bose system or an aftermarket amplified system:
The output levels (voltage and otherwise) from the stock HU is very low, you should be able to splice into that output BEFORE your amp, as I agree with el_duderino that the cheesy built-in speaker probably won't last long with amplified signals pumping through its circuitry.
If you have the non-bose system or an aftermarket non-amplified system:
I would guess that the output coming from a stock non-bose HU or non amplified aftermarket system would not be significant enough to cause damage to the parrot speaker, so I would simply splice into the speaker outputs leaving the HU.
That being said, I would be caution of splicing the HU's speaker outputs regardless, as the more you cut and splice the greater chance of causing noise or other degregation of sound quality. If you are running a non-amplified system, any noise or other issues MAY not be noticeable. If you are running an amplified system (sotck bose or otherwise), keep in mind that any noise will, as an amplified system does, be amplified. You'll be messing with the source of all your sound, so everything downstream could get mucked up.
The output levels (voltage and otherwise) from the stock HU is very low, you should be able to splice into that output BEFORE your amp, as I agree with el_duderino that the cheesy built-in speaker probably won't last long with amplified signals pumping through its circuitry.
If you have the non-bose system or an aftermarket non-amplified system:
I would guess that the output coming from a stock non-bose HU or non amplified aftermarket system would not be significant enough to cause damage to the parrot speaker, so I would simply splice into the speaker outputs leaving the HU.
That being said, I would be caution of splicing the HU's speaker outputs regardless, as the more you cut and splice the greater chance of causing noise or other degregation of sound quality. If you are running a non-amplified system, any noise or other issues MAY not be noticeable. If you are running an amplified system (sotck bose or otherwise), keep in mind that any noise will, as an amplified system does, be amplified. You'll be messing with the source of all your sound, so everything downstream could get mucked up.
I don't think you are thinking of the correct system.
The Parrot doesn't come with a speaker, it interrupts a speaker wire on the way to a speaker and hijacks that speaker for its output. The relays that the speaker signal runs though are my concern. Since you're grabbing the outputs of an amp (Bose or internal-HU), NOT the Hu-to-amp preamp signal, I'd say that the noise potential is almost nil.
While I'm not too worried about degrading sound quality on a speaker wire from an amp (if the relays can take it), you probably need to see how their wiring is set up. They put a lump in the cable with the relays in it. I chop the harness a few inches before the lump and bypass their relays altogether, plug in the optional external speaker, and wire constant, switched, ground, and whatever I'm doing for mute (often remote turn on interrupt).
The Parrot doesn't come with a speaker, it interrupts a speaker wire on the way to a speaker and hijacks that speaker for its output. The relays that the speaker signal runs though are my concern. Since you're grabbing the outputs of an amp (Bose or internal-HU), NOT the Hu-to-amp preamp signal, I'd say that the noise potential is almost nil.
While I'm not too worried about degrading sound quality on a speaker wire from an amp (if the relays can take it), you probably need to see how their wiring is set up. They put a lump in the cable with the relays in it. I chop the harness a few inches before the lump and bypass their relays altogether, plug in the optional external speaker, and wire constant, switched, ground, and whatever I'm doing for mute (often remote turn on interrupt).
I have the bose system in my g35.
How do i know if i have "DIN radio harnesses"?
I have a treo 650 (Rogers in Canada), this is the reason i didn't want the 3100, cuz i have my treo mounted and i can look at the sceen to see how's calling...
How do i know if i have "DIN radio harnesses"?
I have a treo 650 (Rogers in Canada), this is the reason i didn't want the 3100, cuz i have my treo mounted and i can look at the sceen to see how's calling...
Last edited by rich007; Sep 4, 2005 at 08:00 AM.
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