G35C w/bose no Navi

Have JL 12w4 with enclosure that needs to be intalled.

Now, you have $600 or so to spend WITH install. How can around $600 be spent maximized to surpass the Bose system? How much could it be surpassed? What needs to be purchased?

lay it out for me STEP BY STEP (Im a moron!). Which speakers precisely, how many amps, do I ditch the stock amps, etc...

Let's see the idea makers at work!

 

I don't know if you're a moron, but you do seem to repost the same question.

 

It is the same question, but presented with a much better title and in such a way that it will most likely garner more input, in my opinion. You disagree?

I simply realized that my other post was too cluttered. This one gets right to the point in a much more concise manner.


What is your input regarding how I should treat(or you, given this hypothetical)the rear deck speakers, rear seat, and door issues?

 

First of all, good to see you are ok, being at "orlean" and all!

1. reaplce front and rear deck speakers, use stock amp and get ONE amp for the sub.
with this set-up, will afford you to get good speakers and bigger amp for the sub, but many ppl have said that stock bose amp is at 2 ohms or is the speakers itself is at 2 ohms at either way bose amp should have no problem to power the 4 ohm speakers, just might not be as loud. or wire front and rear speakers togther to same amp channel and you get two ohms! but you wont have fade.

2. replace just front door speakers, get ONE amp to power both front and sub.
with this set-up, will afford you to get pretty decent speakers, but you will have no stereo sound from the back, many two channel amp can run tri-mode, shops just dont tell you that!

3. replace front and rear deck speakers and get TWO amps for front/rear and sub.
this is optimum set-up in your case, but it is pretty hard to get under your budget.

I will not do anything to the rear side speakers, one being its too close to your ears and it does have shallow depth and I cant tell you which brand of speakers or amps to get, its all up to your listening preference.

 

with 600 bucks get a set of front components (i went with focal 165v2 slims) and a 300/2 amp. (jl audio 300/2) That should be like $500ish and will sound good. And disconnect the muddy 6x9's and run the 4inchers behind the front seats off the stock amp. That with the sub you have should be an inenpentive way to a badass system.

 

The problem is that he also needs an amp to power the sub. Replace the 300/2 with a 4 channel amp or add a mono amp and then he'd have something decent.

 

Ok, which option do you suggest? Also, how many watts should be distributed to each thing.

Aka, if I get a mono amp for the sub for the JL 12W4 sub how many watts would be sufficient.

Then, if I get coaxial speakers for the front doors, what others do you suggest, how much are they, how much power should go to them(300/2?).

Sorry for being such an audio newb!

 

Most of coaxial speakers cant handle much more than 50 wtts(if that!) so that 300/2 would be over kill and over priced to fit into your budget($375~ish). if you go coaxial route? something like Hifonic's warrior or TX4405 both are around 130!, or the the zx800 its 5 channels 50x4 plus 300x1 for less than 250! and that will afford you to get decent set of components, like alpine's type-R, JL's TRs or MB's DSEs and that will leave you around 220 bucks for rear speaker and installtions.

 

What if I had a 400w 4channel were I bridge 200w to the sub and 100w each to the coaxials? Then just use the stock amp to power the stock 4in?

Or am I better off getting component 6.5s for the doors and mounting the tweeters somewhere(if so, where?)?

 

I would suggest getting a 6.5" component set for the front doors, a 2 channel amp to power them and a mono amp for your sub. As a matter of fact, that's what I'm in the middle of doing in my G. Disconnect the rear deck 6x9s. You don't need them with the sub. You could also disconnect the rear side speakers. They're used for rear fill but if no one rides back there, like in my case, you don't need them. You can always just run them off of the stock Bose amp also.

Definitely don't skimp on your component set. I bought CDT EF-61 CFi/24 for my car and I got them for only $225 shipped from an authorized dealer who frequents the SoundDomain forums. I'll be driving them with a Diamond Audio D5 600.2 amp, 150 w/ch @ 4 ohms. I'd suggest getting an amp with at least 100 w/ch. The JL Audio 300/2 is a nice amp and would work great for your front components. You can get them from Ebay for around $285 shipped. If you're only targetting $600 for your system, I'd check into some cheaper amps but definitely don't go too cheap.

For a mono amp, there's a ton of choices. I'd look for something with at least 300 watts. The JL Audio 250/1 would probably be enough power as long as you don't plan on thumping the whole block. Plenty of cheaper options out there though like MTX, Kicker, Phoenix Gold, etc. since you're on a limited budget.

 

You're definitely better off getting a component set. You can mount the tweeters in the stock location if you have the Bose system.

 

AV Junkie, THIS is the kind of advice I was hoping for. One other thing. I was thinking about ordering the amps off of Ebay but buying the speakers from the installer. Here is my logic on it. It is MUCH more likely to fry a speaker than to have an amp go out. So if I fry a speaker I would like to be able to have it swapped out with a new one failry quickly, and at no cost to me. Purchasing the speakers from the install place would allow me to do so.

Or is that unnecessary?

I think I can bump up to $800 max, so are there any other component 6.5s with tweeters that I should consider?

 

Yes, I think that it's unnecessary but I buy off of Ebay a lot. All of the speakers will come with a warranty if you buy from an authorized dealer. If you're not comfortable buying off of Ebay, by all means buy local.

You should check out the CDT component set that I mentioned in my previous post. They're phenomenal! I don't think that you can beat them for the price. Go to the SoundDomain speakers forum and do a search on CDT. You'll find user djdilliodon. He's an authorized seller of CDT and a great guy to buy from.

 

Awesome

One more thing(I know I know). I have heard some people say that mounting a component tweeter in the stock position is not ideal because it is placing the tweeter too far from the 6.5 What say you?

 

I've heard this for years.

It depends on how important imaging is for you, and what speakers you're using.

Speakers that have a 5000-hz-area xover point don't really help when you put them higher and farther forward - they hurt the image because vocals and guitars seem to float back and forth. Quart and Focal and Infinity go here.

Speakers that have a 2000-2400 Hz xover play so much more information - that octave is heavy with vocals - that they pull the image into the center much more effectively. Dynaudio, Morel, DLS, Alpine F#1 Status, Seas, and others fall into this category.

You put the tweeter down by the mid and usually you get L, or R, or both, but never front and center - what I call "headphone stereo". May have all the notes, but the front stage effect is lost, and that's what "stereo" is all about.