I think its stupid but would it be okay to just upgrade the front speaker to to a good 2 ohm one and leave the rear OEM alone?

Would I be noticing the difference as I think I might?

Also, would difference ruin the harmony of the sound quality?

I never done this before but just try to save some money for now as I'm sort of getting restless with the idea of trade up my G.


My current options are:

1) Get 2 pairs of affordable unknown brand of high sensitivity 4 ohm speaker for Front & Rear using stock BOSE amp recommended by audio shop or

2) Get a pair of Infinity KAPPA60.7CS and Infinity REF7541A 4 channel amp for roughly $200 more.


Spec for KAPPA60.7CS:
Specifications
Power Handling, RMS: 90 Watts
Power Handling, Peak: 270 Watts
Sensitivity: 95dB
Frequency Response: 45Hz - 25kHz
Mounting Depth: 2-3/16"
Impedance: 2 Ohms
-------------------------

Spec for REF7541A:
Specifications
CEA Rated: Yes
Power Output: 111 watts RMS x 4 channel at 4 ohms and ≤ 1% THD + N 278 watts RMS x 2 channel at 4 ohms, 14.4V supply and ≤ 1% THD + N
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 81dBA (reference 1 watt into 4 ohms)
Dynamic Power: 164 watts at 2 ohms
Effective Damping Factor: 6.315 at 4 ohms
Frequency Response (-3dB): 10Hz to 100kHz (-3dB)
Maximum Input Signal: 5.5V
Maximum Sensitivity: 230mV
Output Regulation: .088 dB at 4 ohms

 

I think you're a little confused with the ohm rating in your system. Currently, your Bose system with Bose amp is putting out 2 ohms to each speaker. If you were to only replace the speaker without replacing the stock amp, you will need 2 ohm aftermarket speakers. However, if you were to replace or even add a new amp, your new amp can run at 2 or 4 ohms. It just needs to match up with the new speakers you select. You're not limited to the 2 ohm Kappa components unless you prefer them over other brands. Personally, I think the components and amp you selected are pricey for someone on a budget.

 

Are ALL the speakers 2ohms? I thought the rears were not.

 

espresso has some good points.

Your going to notice the biggest difference replacing the fronts, and it will sound better, but if your going to do an upgrade you should probably save up a little more money and replace all the speakers to get the full quality of an audio upgrade. Go with option 1. Make sure the speakers are not made of paper like the crappy bose.

 

The front door speakers and the speakers on the rear sides are identical in the coupes. The subwoofers in the rear deck are 6x9 and I don't see why Bose would not design a full 2 ohm system although I didn't measure the resistance.

 

http://www.cardomain.com/item/IDSCXS62

These are on sale right now for $350. Not sure how much you wanted to spend, but they are 2ohm, and if you ever decide to upgrade amps later, you have a great foundation. Free shipping too. Infinity is a more budget way to go for speakers, but they have 2ohm speakers as well.

 

You are smart to seek advice here, as the question is not simple.

Without question the Bose system is crappy, but the crap is very carefully coordinated to work together. Changing any speakers with aftermarket, higher RMS speakers, even if 2 ohm, will only exacerbate the Bose problems. I know because I did it. Since the speakers take more power for a given volume level and the Bose amp is tuned to roll-off it's dynamic range where the OEM speaker would start to distort, you end up listening to music more in the "Flat" zone than before. Changing the front Bose speakers is a "Gateway drug," and will lead to more upgrades. Of coarse since you bought 2 ohm speakers to try and make it work with the OEM, you already made some concessions and are a little limited in where to go.

Based on my experience with this car and system, I suggest starting with an amp and/or an amp and speakers. You're just kidding yourself with speakers alone. The stock Bose is a classic "Chicken or the egg" thing. The problem is really both the amp and speakers. The amp is worse in my opinion because it takes the control out of your hands.

Amthar and el D have done a great job of setting people straight on amp choices. In case you missed it, make your life easier get something that accepts low-level balanced differential inputs. The JL "/" series is a common example, but if you're staying 2 ohm, my vote for the best bang for the buck is the JL e6450. You'd be amazed at how much better you can tune all 6 of the Bose speakers than Bose did with a $200 investment (Assuming you install).

 

apparently el_duderino measured the fronts on GeeMan's car and it is 4ohms... dunno

 

I'm just gonna point out that your specs tell you NOTHING about how those speakers will sound.

I think that the sedan sub is probably 2 ohms. But Bose uses 2, 3, 4, and 8 ohms sometimes.

 

el_d: Am I remembering wrong when I say the front speakers were 4 ohm?

 

The front speakers were all 4 ohm, tested with an impedance meter across their expected audible range. I think the sub was 2 ohm. But we might not have tested it.

But Bose COULD have changed it in other year and model cars (coupes/sedans?)

We doin't know until we test is all. A DC ohmmeter can give you a pretty good idea.

 

maybe I'll do this after the holidays. It would not be hard to test for me as I made harnesses to connect my stock amp back in.