Weird Electrical Problem
I spent this past weekend continuing my audio install... I went behind the HU to run turn on wires for my 300/2 and 500/1. I made sure I tapped the correct wire; ACC = light green on M40. The amps turn on and off fine BUT, the radio does not (automatically). When the car is off and the key has been removed, the radio still plays... ??? I know some cars are like that, but the radio goes off when you open the door. I have to manually hit the power button for the radio to go off. Same thing happens with my lights...they come on when it's dark enough outside (when in the "Auto" position of course) but they don't go off automatically anymore, I have to manually turn them off. Are my amps creating some type of infinite loop?
First, confirm the problem by disconnecting your amps. Since you connected directly to the ACC, I guess it's possible there's enough charge left in the amps to keep the line 'high,' thus other components think the key is still on. If that's the case, I can't imagine it could do it for very long, if at all really. Double-check that the wires are consistent at the amps, meaning your batt and acc lines aren't flipped or something.
Either way, unless you want your amps on even when your radio is not, I suggest you use the remote turn-on lead from the HU. I'm assuming you're non-bose, or you wouldn't have bothered going behind the dash. The remote lead is green/yellow on M41 at the HU, or sky blue on B122 if there's a harness in the trunk. If the above is your problem, this will fix it too.
Either way, unless you want your amps on even when your radio is not, I suggest you use the remote turn-on lead from the HU. I'm assuming you're non-bose, or you wouldn't have bothered going behind the dash. The remote lead is green/yellow on M41 at the HU, or sky blue on B122 if there's a harness in the trunk. If the above is your problem, this will fix it too.
Originally Posted by Macgyver
First, confirm the problem by disconnecting your amps. Since you connected directly to the ACC, I guess it's possible there's enough charge left in the amps to keep the line 'high,' thus other components think the key is still on. If that's the case, I can't imagine it could do it for very long, if at all really. Double-check that the wires are consistent at the amps, meaning your batt and acc lines aren't flipped or something.
Either way, unless you want your amps on even when your radio is not, I suggest you use the remote turn-on lead from the HU. I'm assuming you're non-bose, or you wouldn't have bothered going behind the dash. The remote lead is green/yellow on M41 at the HU, or sky blue on B122 if there's a harness in the trunk. If the above is your problem, this will fix it too.
Either way, unless you want your amps on even when your radio is not, I suggest you use the remote turn-on lead from the HU. I'm assuming you're non-bose, or you wouldn't have bothered going behind the dash. The remote lead is green/yellow on M41 at the HU, or sky blue on B122 if there's a harness in the trunk. If the above is your problem, this will fix it too.
I have the Bose system, and I tried tapping the sky blue/silver wire at th harness in the truck before. Next morning my battery was dead because the amp stayed on. This is the reason I went behind the HU to tap the ACC wire. Not sure what to do next. I'm pretty sure I tapped the right wire at the harness in the trunk... sky blue with a silver line, right?
Yes, you had the correct wire in the trunk, all of them have the silver bands on them, so that's not listed in the color codes.
On the 500/1, do you have the 'Signal sensing' switch set to off?
If left on, that would keep the ACC circuit hot for ~25s after the music stops. The 'Infinite loop' as you put it comes in because the radio would be keeping the 500/1 on, which is in turn keeping the radio (and everything else) on.
All else fails, start from the top, get a voltmeter and double-check everything, even the stuff you're absolutely sure of. Make sure you have constant +12VDC where you're supposed to, and switched likewise. Then, connect the 300/2 and make sure it is turning on and off, using the OEM remote lead, it should turn off with the radio or key. You've got great equipment, this will work
.
On the 500/1, do you have the 'Signal sensing' switch set to off?
If left on, that would keep the ACC circuit hot for ~25s after the music stops. The 'Infinite loop' as you put it comes in because the radio would be keeping the 500/1 on, which is in turn keeping the radio (and everything else) on.
All else fails, start from the top, get a voltmeter and double-check everything, even the stuff you're absolutely sure of. Make sure you have constant +12VDC where you're supposed to, and switched likewise. Then, connect the 300/2 and make sure it is turning on and off, using the OEM remote lead, it should turn off with the radio or key. You've got great equipment, this will work
.
Originally Posted by Macgyver
Yes, you had the correct wire in the trunk, all of them have the silver bands on them, so that's not listed in the color codes.
On the 500/1, do you have the 'Signal sensing' switch set to off?
If left on, that would keep the ACC circuit hot for ~25s after the music stops. The 'Infinite loop' as you put it comes in because the radio would be keeping the 500/1 on, which is in turn keeping the radio (and everything else) on.
All else fails, start from the top, get a voltmeter and double-check everything, even the stuff you're absolutely sure of. Make sure you have constant +12VDC where you're supposed to, and switched likewise. Then, connect the 300/2 and make sure it is turning on and off, using the OEM remote lead, it should turn off with the radio or key. You've got great equipment, this will work
.
On the 500/1, do you have the 'Signal sensing' switch set to off?
If left on, that would keep the ACC circuit hot for ~25s after the music stops. The 'Infinite loop' as you put it comes in because the radio would be keeping the 500/1 on, which is in turn keeping the radio (and everything else) on.
All else fails, start from the top, get a voltmeter and double-check everything, even the stuff you're absolutely sure of. Make sure you have constant +12VDC where you're supposed to, and switched likewise. Then, connect the 300/2 and make sure it is turning on and off, using the OEM remote lead, it should turn off with the radio or key. You've got great equipment, this will work
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