Need help installing sub....
Need help installing sub....
Alright heres the deal....... a few weeks a go i reliazed that i really need a sub in my car the stock bose just isnt doing enought for me, so i searched and searched and i found that 4080 makes a really good box so i thought.... it seems a bit pricy but what the hell it looks 100X better than the crap boxes 6th ave electronics wanted to put in my car.... so i bought the 4080 box and let me tell you, it fits like a glove!! it looks sooo hotttt!!! it Gives its the stock look, and saves us coupe drivers a lot of space!! i have no regrets!!! Then i thought whats the best sub that fits in that box..... so i searched again and i found that the jl 10W6V2-d4 sounds amazing in that box so i saved a little for that too and went out and bought it..... here come the questions
1) I know i need an amp, Any suggestions?
-Many ppl have told me to go with the JL 500/1, opinions (its a lil pricey) any thing better to power that sub? (even if it is a lil more, i dont wanna cheap out on my car, but lets not get crazy
)
2) I need an amp kit, Any suggestions? Stinger or JL? Where can i find a good price?
3) I've heard that if i decide to go with the JL amp that i dont need a PAC unit or (what the other one)? which one is better? Would this affect the SQ of the sub (gettin one or not)? where can i find a good price on this if i need it?
-I would rather get one if it will make it sound better, but if not, i dont like wasting money.
4) Is there anything that i am missing? i dont want to rush into this, i'd rather buy everything first then install it.
5) How hard is this install going to be? i cant find any sub install DIY pages... Where am i going to fit the power wire through the fire wall... any pic's
P.S Sorry for all the questions and the really long thread....
1) I know i need an amp, Any suggestions?
-Many ppl have told me to go with the JL 500/1, opinions (its a lil pricey) any thing better to power that sub? (even if it is a lil more, i dont wanna cheap out on my car, but lets not get crazy
)2) I need an amp kit, Any suggestions? Stinger or JL? Where can i find a good price?
3) I've heard that if i decide to go with the JL amp that i dont need a PAC unit or (what the other one)? which one is better? Would this affect the SQ of the sub (gettin one or not)? where can i find a good price on this if i need it?
-I would rather get one if it will make it sound better, but if not, i dont like wasting money.
4) Is there anything that i am missing? i dont want to rush into this, i'd rather buy everything first then install it.
5) How hard is this install going to be? i cant find any sub install DIY pages... Where am i going to fit the power wire through the fire wall... any pic's
P.S Sorry for all the questions and the really long thread....
OK, I'll try to help out.
1) I know i need an amp, Any suggestions?
-Many ppl have told me to go with the JL 500/1, opinions (its a lil pricey) any thing better to power that sub? (even if it is a lil more, i dont wanna cheap out on my car, but lets not get crazy
)
The JL 500/1 matches up very well with the 10W6V2-D4. It's worth every penny and it's perfect for this application because it accepts differential balanced inputs which is exactly what the Bose HU puts out. Just cut up a short RCA and splice the ends onto the wires going into the amp from the HU. You should try ebay if you're looking to save some $$$ on the amp.
2) I need an amp kit, Any suggestions? Stinger or JL? Where can i find a good price?
Check out knukonceptz.com. Very good quality and even better pricing. I get all of my stuff there.
3) I've heard that if i decide to go with the JL amp that i dont need a PAC unit or (what the other one)? which one is better? Would this affect the SQ of the sub (gettin one or not)? where can i find a good price on this if i need it?
-I would rather get one if it will make it sound better, but if not, i dont like wasting money.
You don't need a LOC or PAC unit. See the answer to #1.
4) Is there anything that i am missing? i dont want to rush into this, i'd rather buy everything first then install it.
Get the sub, amp and amp kit and you are good to go. Depending on where you decide to mount the amp you may need to get some mdf and hardware to mount it. Home Depot or Lowes is the place to go. It does fit into the space where the bose amp sits or you could also mount it to the seat back.
5) How hard is this install going to be? i cant find any sub install DIY pages... Where am i going to fit the power wire through the fire wall... any pic's
This is hard to believe. Did you search?? Try searching for amp install.
It's not hard at all. It will take some time though. PM me your email address and I'll send you a DIY which is very thorough.
I hope this helps.
JP
1) I know i need an amp, Any suggestions?
-Many ppl have told me to go with the JL 500/1, opinions (its a lil pricey) any thing better to power that sub? (even if it is a lil more, i dont wanna cheap out on my car, but lets not get crazy
)The JL 500/1 matches up very well with the 10W6V2-D4. It's worth every penny and it's perfect for this application because it accepts differential balanced inputs which is exactly what the Bose HU puts out. Just cut up a short RCA and splice the ends onto the wires going into the amp from the HU. You should try ebay if you're looking to save some $$$ on the amp.
2) I need an amp kit, Any suggestions? Stinger or JL? Where can i find a good price?
Check out knukonceptz.com. Very good quality and even better pricing. I get all of my stuff there.
3) I've heard that if i decide to go with the JL amp that i dont need a PAC unit or (what the other one)? which one is better? Would this affect the SQ of the sub (gettin one or not)? where can i find a good price on this if i need it?
-I would rather get one if it will make it sound better, but if not, i dont like wasting money.
You don't need a LOC or PAC unit. See the answer to #1.
4) Is there anything that i am missing? i dont want to rush into this, i'd rather buy everything first then install it.
Get the sub, amp and amp kit and you are good to go. Depending on where you decide to mount the amp you may need to get some mdf and hardware to mount it. Home Depot or Lowes is the place to go. It does fit into the space where the bose amp sits or you could also mount it to the seat back.
5) How hard is this install going to be? i cant find any sub install DIY pages... Where am i going to fit the power wire through the fire wall... any pic's
This is hard to believe. Did you search?? Try searching for amp install.
It's not hard at all. It will take some time though. PM me your email address and I'll send you a DIY which is very thorough.
I hope this helps.
JP
One last question.... ok i kno that i have to tap the rear speakers (6X9's)..... now i dont kno if i understand this correctly.... i need 2 Y rca cables i cut the heads off the end that has 2 or the V looking side and i use wire taps to connect the rca with the + and the - wires of the 6x9's two seprate wires then lead into one rca head that is to be plugged into my amplifier input section Left ch and Right ch?
You don't want to tap into the speaker wires coming FROM the AMP and TO the SPEAKERS. You want to tap into the wires going FROM the HU TO the AMP. The file I sent you has the colors of the wires listed. Tap into those wires and run the RCA ends to the amp input. Hope that clarifies things.
Ok now im feel dumb, i do understand that i must get the signal befor it has been altered by the bose amp so there for must tap the wire b4, and i do kno the colors, they were listed in the file, but i do cut the V end of the rca attach one to the neg left and one to the pos left and then but the other end that has not been cut into the amp input left ch? and also what gauge wire should i use when wireing the box and then the box to the amp. Any suggestions on where to penetrate the fire wall, i did a search and found that i could either drill through, or i could slice the rubber behind the battery area, the one problem with that is i must comletely seal it beacuase this is where the water on the windsheild drains and we deff dont want the water coming into our cars.
i will be a pro at this by the time i get my amp kit.
i will be a pro at this by the time i get my amp kit.
You are correct on the RCA connection. 12 gauge speaker wire running from the amp to the subwoofer is fine.
As for the power wire running from the battery to the amp, go with 2 gauge. 4 gauge is fine for the 500/1 but running 2 gauge gives you upgrade options in the future if you decide to add another amp to run your front and rear speakers. You wouldn't want to have to take out the 4g and rerun 2g.
I ran my power wire into the grommet behind the battery. I used an awl to poke a hole through and then ran a large phillips screwdriver to widen it up. I then poked the power wire through the hole. It's tight enough so no moisture will get through, but you could always seal it up with some silicone sealant.
After doing this project, you'll be knowledgable enough to become dangerous!! lol
Take your time, think things through (like you are already) and plan it out before starting. Doing a simple diagram is always a good idea so you don't forget something.
And have fun!!!
As for the power wire running from the battery to the amp, go with 2 gauge. 4 gauge is fine for the 500/1 but running 2 gauge gives you upgrade options in the future if you decide to add another amp to run your front and rear speakers. You wouldn't want to have to take out the 4g and rerun 2g.
I ran my power wire into the grommet behind the battery. I used an awl to poke a hole through and then ran a large phillips screwdriver to widen it up. I then poked the power wire through the hole. It's tight enough so no moisture will get through, but you could always seal it up with some silicone sealant.
After doing this project, you'll be knowledgable enough to become dangerous!! lol
Take your time, think things through (like you are already) and plan it out before starting. Doing a simple diagram is always a good idea so you don't forget something.
And have fun!!!
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