I usually say "rear speakers are a Commie plot", but few people seemed convinced by that argument

 

Ought to sound great. Pics? I'd love to see how you put those in.

 

i abide.







best shots i have for now. waiting on the material to wrap the pod and amp rack(s), then Ill snap some more pics.

 

ah yes, "the man in the black pajamas, a worthy adversary"

 

I have an '04 Coupe 6MT. Here's what I did and why...

Front Speakers:
-Went with MB Quart QSD 6.5" components. Demoed them a couple of times as well as the Boston Acoustics Z6. The Z6 can handle alot of power (more than the MB) and it's got big midbass, but it's also $1k a pair and I liked the QSD's reproduction a bit better and it also had impressive midbass and power handling. I also found an e-tailer selling a pair for about $600 instead of the $1,200 at stores. These components are bar none awesome! The tweets are bright, but this can be fixed with proper tuning (Get a HU with a decent EQ or get a separate EQ unit). The sound is also very powerful and full force and the entire coupe cabin is filled with sound. Good front stage with stock locations, but can be improved with kickpanels with an additional set of woofers to make it a 3-way system (Competition setup). MB Quart sells a pair of woofers for this which is the same woofers in the QSD set. With a GOOD pair of components I decided not to put in any rear fills and I'm happy with my decision. It's easier to tune since you don't have to worry about clashing with the rear fills and it's just a better setup if you want to achieve better SQ.

Subwoofer:
-I got a 10W7v3 fitted in a custom fiberglass enclosure to fit in the trunk similar to 4080's box, but mine is much deeper and goes straight down to the sheet metal for the additional depth and volume for the W7. Along with this, I removed the stock 6x9s in the rear to open up port holes into the cabin. The 10W7 really kicks *** in my car. Since the cabin volume is relatively small, I get good thumping response and when I turn the dial up, I can get it to CPR a dead guy's heart back to life. The sunglasses in the ceiling cubby rattles, and when it's turned up really high, I can feel a slight wind hitting the back of my head from the 6x9 grills in the rear when a huge bass note hits.

Amps:
-JL all the way baby! JL 500/1 to power the sub and a 300/2 to power the components. I considered getting a 450/4 and biamping the components, but the 450/4 was too big to mount in my trunk without sacrficing my spare tire so I decided not to do it. BTW, if you go this route the MB Quart crossovers are already built to support biamping.

Headunit:
-None. This is the weakest part of my system. I couldn't make a decision at the time I installed my system, so I didn't do it. Although I have a dash kit sitting around and I'm still pondering which way I should go with this.

Sound Deadening:
-Dynamat!!! Get plenty of sound deadening cuz you'll need it. I got about 60sq ft. put in to cover the entire trunk, rear wheel wells, under the rear seat, and doors. If you haven't taken care of your rearview mirror TSB, do it cuz my thing shakes like crazy from the W7. There is another TSB for the interior right rear quarter panel above the rear window. It was driving me crazy so I got this taken care of. I also had to get some additional foam put into the doors to get rid of some misc. rattling and noise. With a potential 800watt system, your car will shake like crazy if you don't sound deaden your car and it will ruin the SQ.

Wiring:
-I got monster cables for all the power and RCA connections. Make sure to look at thicker guages with twisted pair and oxygen free wires. Twisted pair wiring has better EMI interference properties. Also remember to run your speaker wires on the passenger side since your alarm wiring will most likely run down the driver's side.

Alarm:
-I can't stress this enough. If you are going to drop some serious cajones for a system, you better put in some $$$ for a decent alarm to discourage most thieves from wasting their effort on your car. Get an alarm with backup batteries, horns, hood and trunk sensors, and any other bells and whistles you need.

Capacitors:
-This helps SQ, by supplying the amp with the burst of power it needs quickly to amplify the low frequency bass notes. If you see dimming from the heavy bass notes, you'll need a more powerful alternator instead. A second battery only adds additional burden to the alternator.

Hope this helps. Good luck building your system.

 

Thanks for the responses. I'm going to listen to you guys and get front end speakers only. I've decided on the DLS Iridium 6.2 (100w) comps for the front and the DLS A5 3ch amp (nominal power 2x50w 4 ohm, typical 2x85W 4ohm, 1x300w 4ohm). Also, on a later date, I will be getting the 4080 box and JL 10w3-d4 (300w 4ohm). So, the comps and sub are 4ohm, that means the amp should be set at the 4ohm setting right? Then the amp won't be able to push the comps to its max potential b/c they have a lower rms? What do you guys think of this set up?

 

The Iridium tweeters won't fit in the stock location. You will have to do some build-out in order to fit these. Just makin' sure you know.

 

Anyone have any experience with dynaudio's 240 gt?

 

Dynaudio speakers are awesome, great natural sound. Problem again, may be fitting the tweets in the stock location. may require some cutting/fabing to make them work.

 

Where'd you get the speaker pods?

Dave

 

hmm, do you know how big our tweets are? I thought they were 1" just like the dynaudio ones...

 

Made them myself

 

Nice work!

Dave

 

Im pretty sure ours are 1" tweet. Dyn's are 1" too but the housing on them is pretty big. i didnt try fitting mine in there, just look like they wouldnt fit.

 

Thanks Dave. They were my first forray into the fiberglass world.