I am adding JL 250/1 to my system which is kinda unexpected. since i first wanted a stealth install, now i want more power.

I have JL 300/4 now powering edi6500s and ID10 v.3, with 8 gauge wiring by knukonceptz.com . I guess i have to upgrade to a 4 guage wire, do you guys have any suggestions what kind of wire, along with fuse, Fused distrubution box, and ground terminal? I have been looking around i kind of like the Stinger HPM series fuse distrubution box. Is there anything cool looking that wont break the bank?

And I am planning to bridging the 300/4 to 150x2 to power the edi6500s. I know i need something called y-rca connector? Where can i find some decent price ones?
Or should I not bridge the 300/4 and go with rear speakers?

 

I use knukonceptz.com for wiring and RCA interconnects. Their quality is good and the pricing is unbelievable. They don't have the flashiest looking distro and ground blocks though.

 

Try Cables N Mor or av-cables.net for RCA Y cables. Or try your local radio shack. Shouldn't cost you more than 4-10 bucks for a female RCA to two male RCA adapter. Some of the other folks will tell you to spend big $$$ on cables, but for these just get something that is reasonably sturdy. If they stink toss them and then go pay the big bucks for monster etc...

For 4 gauge cable get welding cable. It is flexible and has a very high strand count about 1000 strands of 34 gauge comprise the total bundle. The outer jacket on this welding cable is usually tougher than what the car amp wiring kits have in them. I used 4 gauge Carol Super Vu-Tron welding cable, catalog # 01767.

Alternatively get one of the car amp wiring kits. Don't get the cheapest, but don't pay the big bucks either. I got a reasonably cheap Lightning Audio amp wiring kit for the fuseblocks and 8 guage cable items. The fuseblocks were a little cheesy, but did the job. I got mine from ikesound.com, but they are out of the SPK4DANL kit that I used. cbrstereo.com looks like they have some.

I am just running the door speakers, powered with JL 300/4. Got a 4080 box and JL 500/1 for the lows. I have not gone to bridged mode on the JL 300/4, and it plays louder than I care to listen on just the first two channels of the amp. Will bridge it when I get some time to fuss with the car again. I left the rear speakers disconnected and don't miss them.

Good luck.

 

Stinger makes some quality stuff and the HPM series is really quality (though the covers on the distro blocks are a bit flimsy). I just ordered a 2nd boat load of Stinger stuff from a dude on ebay called bag-boy to do the new G- a real good seller who has some killer prices and lightning shipping.

Definitely go bridged on the fronts and completely kill the rear fill! Worry about imaging and soundstage up front and seal up those useless gopher holes in the back.

Cobalt cables cobaltcables.com has some really great y-splitters for a very reasonable price I would recommend.

Not completely necessary now, but if you have any thought of adding more power in the future, I would go 1/0 from batt to distro and 4 to the amps.

Make sure you do a Big 3 on the car! Makes a huge diff on sound and car driving performance...