Opinions on LOCs (in honor of joes954rr)
#1
#3
I'm not mocking. I'm actually trying to make light of a silly situation AND provide good info for readers. This is actually a good thread, as we often tell people they need a LOC due to their amp choice(s), but rarely give them specific models and brands. I have better things to do then make a thread that's purpose is to mock a member. I'd just do that in existing threads Seriously, not that big of a deal.
#7
Originally Posted by Ivory056MT
<flame proof suit>
FWIW
You never need a LOC, you can tap an RCA into the HU output and drive it right into an amp.
</flame proof suit>
FWIW
You never need a LOC, you can tap an RCA into the HU output and drive it right into an amp.
</flame proof suit>
That's why I started the thread, to discuss which LOCs are good for those people who buy (knowingly or not) amps that require single-ended signals on their inputs.
Originally Posted by khsonic03
You're right. I'm sure you had no intentions of mocking him via the title of the thread.
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#9
LOC's
That's just it, you don't need an amp that takes any special input. I ran the HU outs into a cheepie little radio AUX input, it works fine. Now, my MTX crossover didn't like the inputs, but it tends to be pickey anyway. Telling people they need some high end JL type amp is crap. Any $100 or $200 amp at Circuit City or Best Buy will also work. The extra LOC hardware will just add noise. I bet even the real trash you can get a Walmart may work, I may try it just to prove the point.
JH
JH
#11
#12
The LOCPREA is a relabeled Navone device. It works fairly well. It is basically almost entirely a ground loop isolator.
Remember that when interfacing with an OEM deck, you want the converter to do three things for you:
1) Make sure the amplitude of the signal is correct (this is for speaker wire outputs that need a "step down").
2) Provide a workable signal for a single ended amp and a drivable load for the HU output.
3) Reduce the chance of noise - usually by isolating ground loops,
The one issue with the LOCPREA (as well as ground loop isolators) is that the transformer can pick up EMI and actually introduce noise into the path. Location is crucial.
Additionally, all transformers block DC, so all of them block a little low-freq AC as well - and phase shift the AC freqs just above that. This effect increases as the voltage through the transformer increases, so sloppy, cheap transformers can take out more bass and affect more bass as the volume goes up...
The LOC.B is something we used for the first time the other day in a Mazda-Bose system when bypassing the Bose amp and installing a DLS CA22. It has some transformers in it too, but a lot more other circuitry, and it is a Soundgate piece, I believe (different case). I liked the performance of this unit a lot.
When I am looking for the best performance from an OEM deck and I want to ensure that I am preventing any kind of noise, I will use the Iso-Max RCA unit from Jensen Transformers. I have talked to the VP of the company, and he said this device was originally developed for IASCA-type competitors, but sold terribly - but what keeps it alive is high end home theatre (gotta eliminate ground loops without picking up 60Hz AC whine: )
The transformers are in a metal box, but each one is also inside a metal can soldered to the board. On top of that, the transformers are precision wound to be as flat as imaginable in the audio range. These guys make the transformers that Audio Research and other tweak home audio gear makers use, so I'm cool with their QC. But they retail for $200 each.
If your amp will take balaced in, and your deck isn't terribly load sensitive, and you don't get any noise, then the need for an LOC is what?
But if you can't raise the amp gain enough without the noise floor getting too loud, or if your HU sounds like crap or shuts off sometimes (as the new BMW X3 HU does when it drives a Zapco amp without any loading circuitry), you might need an LOC. This is usually car-and-amp dependent.
Remember that when interfacing with an OEM deck, you want the converter to do three things for you:
1) Make sure the amplitude of the signal is correct (this is for speaker wire outputs that need a "step down").
2) Provide a workable signal for a single ended amp and a drivable load for the HU output.
3) Reduce the chance of noise - usually by isolating ground loops,
The one issue with the LOCPREA (as well as ground loop isolators) is that the transformer can pick up EMI and actually introduce noise into the path. Location is crucial.
Additionally, all transformers block DC, so all of them block a little low-freq AC as well - and phase shift the AC freqs just above that. This effect increases as the voltage through the transformer increases, so sloppy, cheap transformers can take out more bass and affect more bass as the volume goes up...
The LOC.B is something we used for the first time the other day in a Mazda-Bose system when bypassing the Bose amp and installing a DLS CA22. It has some transformers in it too, but a lot more other circuitry, and it is a Soundgate piece, I believe (different case). I liked the performance of this unit a lot.
When I am looking for the best performance from an OEM deck and I want to ensure that I am preventing any kind of noise, I will use the Iso-Max RCA unit from Jensen Transformers. I have talked to the VP of the company, and he said this device was originally developed for IASCA-type competitors, but sold terribly - but what keeps it alive is high end home theatre (gotta eliminate ground loops without picking up 60Hz AC whine: )
The transformers are in a metal box, but each one is also inside a metal can soldered to the board. On top of that, the transformers are precision wound to be as flat as imaginable in the audio range. These guys make the transformers that Audio Research and other tweak home audio gear makers use, so I'm cool with their QC. But they retail for $200 each.
If your amp will take balaced in, and your deck isn't terribly load sensitive, and you don't get any noise, then the need for an LOC is what?
But if you can't raise the amp gain enough without the noise floor getting too loud, or if your HU sounds like crap or shuts off sometimes (as the new BMW X3 HU does when it drives a Zapco amp without any loading circuitry), you might need an LOC. This is usually car-and-amp dependent.
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